I need a better way of mounting the instrument cluster. Help?

[helloindustries]

This is starting to bother me far more than it should.

What i have works, yes. But it's ugly.
It could be much more compact and a hell of a lot more tidy with the wiring.

Frustrating that i can't afford a Koso DB01 nor can i fit the damn thing. Pretty much the same story for a cheaper universal speedo.
Lacking technical skill or the money to throw at the issue can be annoying when this close to finishing the bike.

Anyway. Less problems, more solutions. Here's what i have and what i'm thinking of doing with what i have.



I keep thinking of getting some basic type of small speedo etc, but it always comes down to not being able to fit it myself and the reported running issues when not using the standard unit.

Help/suggestions etc very much appreciated.

[His Dudeness]

You seem to have come up with the solution yourself. Why not make the one you've drawn?

[Paul]

I made some extra long nuts to tighten up the handlebar clamps to fit mine.
They tighten up the handlebar clamps but give you a fixing point for the bracket to mount the clocks.

[fazersharp]

You know what that small cowl looks like a visor !!!! would that work somhow, smoke one or a mirror one they are already tapered at the ends

[Paul]

To fazersharp


I'm not sure a visor would work, I think they're a bit too thin.


The cowl in the photo is made out of aluminium.

[helloindustries]

I'm also thinking of dumping the standard cluster for a universal set-up. Maybe two small dials, one for speed, other for fuel. Maybe even 3 small ones, just add revs... But i only really need speed and fuel, or at least a low fuel light. Idiot lights would be a bonus.

All this speculation on my part is fine and dandy; the hard part is affording to do it all and that i lack the skill to wire it all in properly. Granted; I can get help with fitting, provided there are clear instructions and i don't have to waste someones time getting them to figure it out.

I was looking at a Koso DB01/+. Bit expensive, but has everything. I even have a connection diagram.
But on the other hand i do like the idea of a series of small analogue dials mounted off a bracing bar.

[fazersharp]

To fazersharp


I'm not sure a visor would work, I think they're a bit too thin.

They are still strong though, I was thinking it would fit upside down sort of like this (but better)
 

[helloindustries]

To fazersharp


I'm not sure a visor would work, I think they're a bit too thin.

They are still strong though, I was thinking it would fit upside down sort of like this (but better)

That's actually an interesting idea!
For me specifically; I could mount it off the inner side of the indicators, provided i widen the mount point on the visor to 10mm.

I'm sure i can dig out an unwanted smoked/mirrored visor to try this. If i do, i shall post results.

[fazersharp]

or buy a cheep one on ebay that has a better size mount hole already inplace

[helloindustries]

or buy a cheep one on ebay that has a better size mount hole already inplace

I just did a quick check to see what it might look like with my visor, and i'm not so sure about it now.

[fazersharp]

Picture !

[helloindustries]

Picture !

I only held it by hand, so no picture available. Sorry.

[helloindustries]

Some very quick & dirty mock-ups of current set-up and two options.



Obviously; I'd LOVE To go with the KOSO DB01, but; cost and install are the major barriers there.
I quite like the Café option, too.

[Yamazer-92]

I'm in the same boat as you. I made my clock mount out of aluminium plate and then put a rubber lip over all the edges. It looks okay, but from the front it is quite untidy and needs to be lower to accommodate / hide the placement of the standard clocks wiring which goes right into the top of the clocks annoyingly. The most annoying thing is the ignition is really bulky and sticks right out making it hard to mount everything close together. The clock can't go too far down or you have to have them too flat and makes reading them hard, but then I can't make my single headlight any higher to compensate or the back of its housing hits the ignition.  I am going to try and lower the clocks as far as I can, then try adding a smoked fly screen to cover it all. I have also contemplated getting some Koso gauges and would go for the cafe style set up like you have demonstrated, but they're quite expensive and seem a lot of hassle to wire in. I also need to make some frame infills to cover all of the ugly radiator hoses and old fairing tabs on the frame but not 100% on how I will do that just yet. I'm not too fussed about how it looks at the moment anyway as long as it's fun to ride, I will sort the cosmetic stuff out over winter.

[helloindustries]

As far as the fairing mounts go: I cut all of mine off. Much neater now.

I'm wondering if i/we could fit a different top-yoke with the ignition in a different place to better accommodate neatness.

Wiring: Tempted to fit a load of extensions to move the bulk of the loom back under the tank.

Pipes: Money permitting, i'd like to cover them in.. something.. Around the tubes themselves, maybe some stainless woven tubing like this. Tempted to do similar with the other non-hot tubes/cables/wires with some woven sleeving like this (not necessarily in orange). Maybe just cut it lengthways and sew it back together if whatever part is awkward to remove.

[Yamazer-92]

Yeah fair enough, I don't want to cut the frame fairing tabs off though purely because if I ever come to sell it I have the option of putting it all back to standard (I still have all the standard stuff although have altered some wiring so not sure how easy that would all come together again) then selling all the bits I have modded separately. That way I would probably make the most money to put towards a new bike. 

[helloindustries]

Yeah fair enough, I don't want to cut the frame fairing tabs off though purely because if I ever come to sell it I have the option of putting it all back to standard (I still have all the standard stuff although have altered some wiring so not sure how easy that would all come together again) then selling all the bits I have modded separately. That way I would probably make the most money to put towards a new bike.

Indeed that would make you the most money.
I don't really have that option, sadly. The bike was purchased as a write-off (cat C) with the front end having been replaced after a crash, no front fairing, but it did have the lights, mounts, original instruments, but many of the fairing mount points were either destroyed or seriously bent. I've approached this 'build' from the perspective that the bike will never really be worth much and therefore to keep spending on it down as best i can.

I'd love to be able to just keep it if i can ever afford a second bike (which would probably be some thunderous cruiser). I don't see myself selling it any time soon, unless i get a good offer.

[unfazed]

Why not buy a  top yolk from the breakers and cut the Ignition lock section off so the yolk is straight across allow you fit the standard clocks closer to the Yolk.
You could remount the ignition on the side of the frame near the horn or thermostat housing, only disadvantage is that you will no longer have a steering lock

[helloindustries]

Why not buy a  top yolk from the breakers and cut the Ignition lock section off so the yolk is straight across allow you fit the standard clocks closer to the Yolk.
You could remount the ignition on the side of the frame near the horn or thermostat housing, only disadvantage is that you will no longer have a steering lock

It's certainly an option. I'll agree there.