Yeah that's why I went down the aftermarket cable route after finding out the cost of the one from Yamaha. Cable lasted around 1000 miles then snapped 5 minutes after changing the clutch. Luckily on the drive not while riding! Oil in there at the moment is silkolene 10/40.
See if this sounds familiar at all?http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13507.html
Quote from: darrsi on 26 September 2017, 06:34:52 amSee if this sounds familiar at all?http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13507.htmlThat was a selector issue, it wouldn't cause the clutch to drag.I vaguely recall seeing a previous thread about temperature-dependent take-up with the clutch lever, but can't recall what the outcome was... might have a search later.
Had a search, but the one I'd half-remembered turned out to be the usual case of someone putting in heavy-duty springs. The other popular cause is down to improper adjustment of the cable and the actuator in the sprocket cover.How worn was the actuator? I had to replace the bearings in mine… it's possible that might be giving you a variable take-up point if your balls aren't spherical.There is probably a slight variation in take-up point as the bike goes from cold to hot. It looks, from the drawings as though the position of the clutch itself is fixed to the right hand side of the crank case. This means it'll move away from the pushrod slightly due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients of aluminium alloy and steel. But, it will be 0.25 mm maximum which is still well within the range of pushrod movement available… otherwise we'd all have the same problem.