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Messages - BorisTheThird
26
« on: 02 November 2013, 03:14:10 pm »
does anyone know where the meeting is and at what time? tried finding it in the thread, but failed.
27
« on: 01 November 2013, 08:56:10 pm »
Just an FYI, Fuel have a 20% off sale this month.
might actually get one now!
just oval or round (round is £30 cheaper)
28
« on: 31 October 2013, 07:52:31 am »
29
« on: 29 October 2013, 08:31:12 pm »
cheers, ill try tomorrow 
30
« on: 29 October 2013, 04:47:22 pm »
isnt there a temp symbol next to it also +- or somthing
theres a picture of a thermometer in some water
31
« on: 29 October 2013, 04:03:18 pm »
Warning 'Newbie question here' I have a 1998 600 fazer and until this post didn't know about temp warning light. Could someone please give location and operation of this? 
Many thanks Barrie
its on the rev counter, just past the 15krpm mark
32
« on: 29 October 2013, 03:09:46 pm »
LEDs do not fuse, they are very tough. Have you tested the temperature sensor first?
no, but i know the LED is duff (was taking the clocks apart anyway and tested it). Also, the fan does still come on
33
« on: 29 October 2013, 02:39:18 pm »
The LED in my rev counter that comes on when the engine gets too hot doesn't work, and wants replacing (no continuity over it)
I was assuming it was 12v, but then my brother sugested it may not be the obvious 12 v, anyone know what it should be?
cheers
Boris
34
« on: 27 October 2013, 06:34:23 pm »
Potentially, if i can get my bike back on the road by then 
35
« on: 26 October 2013, 11:59:43 pm »
oh yes, sorry for the lack of response, got the new rectifier on which fixed it the charging until... I noticed a sparks from the left just under the seat (the wires were still displaced and cover off from testing the stator). 3 or 4 of these wires had become bare from rubbing against the frame (i think) and no shorting to each other/earth. inc wires to the stator.  so in better news, i think i may have found what killed my reg/rec, going to spend tomorrow pulling out the loop and replacing these wires 
36
« on: 23 October 2013, 09:57:30 pm »
My bikes broken 
Mr Haynes says i cant test the rectifier, i can either swap it for a known good one or take it to a yam dealer to do it....
Mr Haynes also says "caution: never disconnect the battery cables from battery whilst the engine is running...." Hmmm.....just maybe he's onto something. 
However,
Mr Yamaha says:( & he should know i guess  )
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=8
In the official factory manual,yes you can test the rectifier, download & have a good read of the electical section.
Whatever "this" was in last post it's not showing on my computer.???
Not being funny Boris, but i'd be more bothered 'bout fixing my bike than debating every point brought up, there a helpful lot here,& they're only trying to help. 
Thanks, not trying to be annoying, just trying to understand how things work (i cant fix the bike till tomorrow now so m stuck inside on the pc :P)
and in the last post i was trying to post the first picture in this
http://webpages.charter.net/jrandall/vrr/vrr_upgrade.htm
Ok,no worries.
& yes similar to that diagram.
Thanks Well I'm learning things I hope I'll never need to know, but then I know lots of things that nobody needs to know.
.... Im learning thing i really should know, i deal with these (ish) in my job - just 50kv AC - 650v DC ones
37
« on: 23 October 2013, 09:44:32 pm »
38
« on: 23 October 2013, 09:05:59 pm »
No,Not a bridge rectifier~
reg/rectifier is a 3 phase rectifier coupled with a voltage regulator circuit all in one unit. think they're a bit more technical than the used to be ~Unfazed?
so simmiler to this? 
39
« on: 23 October 2013, 08:29:14 pm »
Thanks for the vote of confidence Foccers
Under no circumstances should you remove the battery with the engines running on alternator based systems, especially on bikes (or cars) with ECUs and Electronic Regulators. The systems are not designed to run without the battery. The fazer has an ECU and an electronic rectifier/regulator which is normally called the Regulator. Fazer Alternators are 3 phase Alternating Current (AC) devices and the AC is converted by the Rectifier to direct current (DC) and the Regulator controls the DC output based on the battery condition and electrical load.You will most likely fry the Regulator and after frying that you are likely to fry the ECU and then the Alternator. Lucky for you the bike stopped and the worst you may have done is fry the Rectifier/Regulator unless you have a faulty alternator, in which case you are lucky.Disconnect the plug from the regulator and the resistance between the white wire connectors should be between 0.36 to 0.44 Ohms. (Don't know where you got you info. from)  There should be no reading from the white wire connectors to the frame (earth). If the resistance is higher the output will be lower and if there is continuity to earth output will be lower again.Your reading is on the high side but could be from a bad connection between the meter and the connectors.The resistance readings on their own are not enough to prove the alternator is good. You could have insulation break down when under load or when hot. Set the meter to AC and with everything connected start the bike and check the voltage between the white wires; (push the meter leads (carefully) into the back of the plug) it should read around 18 to 20 volts AC. With the engine running at tick over the voltage across the battery should read over 12v and go up to an absolute maximum of 14.4 when the engine is revved over 5000 revs. If the voltage does not increase and you have 19 to 20v AC from the alternator then the regulator is faulty.
couple of things, do you know how the rectifier works, i was expecting just a simple bridge rectifier, capacitor and a voltage regulator. but from what you say its more involved. also, would a flat battery or blown main fuse no cause the same issue? ive tested the voltege output from the stator, got about 90v (which is what someone on another forum says i should be expecting)
40
« on: 23 October 2013, 07:58:57 pm »
41
« on: 23 October 2013, 06:57:25 pm »
stuck the battery back in
bike off - 12.2v
when the bike was started it started about the same and dropped as the rpm increased.
this implies the charging is not working, stator tested correctly - going to try fitting a friend's rectifier tomorrow.
not going to try taking more readings tonight neighbours are getting home and my exhaust is a bit holey.
cheers peeps
....if it does turn out your rectifier is goosed i have a spare i will let you have cheap?...pm me if you need it ..clive.
Cheers, ill let you know
42
« on: 23 October 2013, 06:27:41 pm »
Off the top of my head only a dynamo will generate without haveing a voltage applied to it and most if not all charging systems these days are alternators which require a battery connected to work or have I totally missed the point?
Andy
the alternator is just a coil (or three) of wire with a magnet spinning alongside it. a magnetic field moving across a conductor will induce a current in that coil. Off the top of my head only a dynamo will generate without haveing a voltage applied to it and most if not all charging systems these days are alternators which require a battery connected to work or have I totally missed the point?
Andy
...thats what i think too andy!!...and ime sure you should not disconnect whilst engine running  ....ime also thinking if the rectifier wasnt fkd before?...it may be now!!!!!!...ime sure the unfazed wizard will be along shortly to put us right?
would turning the ignition off not essentially do the same - causing a brake in the circuit.
43
« on: 23 October 2013, 06:20:44 pm »
stuck the battery back in
bike off - 12.2v
when the bike was started it started about the same and dropped as the rpm increased.
this implies the charging is not working, stator tested correctly - going to try fitting a friend's rectifier tomorrow.
not going to try taking more readings tonight neighbours are getting home and my exhaust is a bit holey.
cheers peeps
44
« on: 23 October 2013, 04:16:37 pm »
when the bike is giving out the voltege, it will give the PD across the battery connectors, weather there is a battery there or not
45
« on: 23 October 2013, 03:53:36 pm »
ime no electrical wizard but ive always been under the impression that you should never disconnect a battery whilst engine running can do all sorts of damage?...all you got to do is leave in situ and connect a meter across the batt terminals and see what it reads both on idle then when its reved to 3 t 4thou it should be approx 14.2 + at about 4thou...little less with lights etc loaded up!!...unfazed or fazerider will give you the correct figures
The 12v supply was a battery charger, so giving out 13v anyway, wanted to see what the fazer is giving though.
46
« on: 23 October 2013, 03:37:09 pm »
i had taken the battery out to charge, and hooked it up to a 12v power supply
47
« on: 23 October 2013, 03:35:45 pm »
I didnt use mine on it (though i don’t think it goes that low)
48
« on: 23 October 2013, 02:56:40 pm »
So, just ordered a nice Motad/Venom downpipes/can system for the Fazer. Any tips for fitting?
Had a gander at the article on here, which was handy, but all the photos weren't working. Started dousing the header bolts in WD40 and penetrative spray, which I'll keep doing until weekend when I fit them. Really don't want bolts snapping, but they still look in pretty good nick visually. Hoping previously ACF50 treatment is going to pay off. Anything else I should know?
I did this a while ago, all bolts came off fine (untill i tried to remove a stud that was fine where it was ) If you do brake any of the studs ive still got the ones i was going to fit. ended up cutting up my downpipes to get them off, as otherwise they wouldn't move
49
« on: 23 October 2013, 02:48:01 pm »
My bikes broken its something to do with charging the battery. if i start the bike and then disconnect the battery it cuts out. tested the resistance of the alternator coils and all three are reading at 0.6 ohms (the spec is 3.36 - 4.4 ohms). this is out of spec, though all three are evenly so. There is no continuity to earth. Mr Haynes says i cant test the rectifier, i can either swap it for a known good one or take it to a yam dealer to do it. any ideas what to do next?
50
« on: 22 October 2013, 04:49:22 pm »
Bah, just ended up buying all he bits separately and spent about £130 on this! (and still no top box!)
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