Soz , its a bit late but ive been doing a lot of head scratching  .
Ive just spent 3 days putting a new cam chain in,, around 75000 on old one so new one needed. No adjustment left on tensioner. 
All seemed ok. Running in shed ,, didnt rev to much in shed as i wanted all engine parts to settle and oil to flow round.
Then off for wee run.
Out of drive and i noticed shutting off throttle and the revs were'nt dropping too quick. Not sticking open , just coming down slowly.
Just a short run and still the same at the end.
But i never touched the carbs,,, just took them off,,, and put them back on. Yep cables were off but when i put them on i checked the throttle and it was'nt sticking just usual nice spring back when you let go.  And again after run ,, throttle just snaps back but revs come down slow.
 
any ideas, cause i confuzzed

Would agree with above, needs a wee top up of oil. My oil light used to come on if i gave it a wee bit too much throttle from the off, but went out a couple of miles down the road. A wee top up and oil light stays off.
Sometimes an oil change can help if topping up dose not help.
If you do as darrsi explained you will probably see oil level in check window about half of window. So wee top up and see how it goes.

Hi , maybe you have this sorted but id go for main fuse first.  But also disconnect those clock before trying anything. And then check out ignition , hoping its still ok. As you wont have neutral light to go by when ignition is on, just press horn or lights on. Just a pain tracing were and were not you have got power to.

Just a wee thought for you. I had similar problem couple of years back. It basically came down to a broken wire in the ignition barrel. Took a bit of head scratching to find but with a little help i found it. Wee solder and still working.
Just put bike on stand , light on and move the wires about a bit and as Darrsi says move the handle bars at same time. If the lights flicker or go out might be time to have a wee look inside barrel.

Just a wee thought. You said you have temp fuel going to fuel pump. Is pump working ? As you have owned another Fazer youll know that pump will click  a few times when ignition is turned on.  Then if no firing are your plugs getting wet or even damp.

Thanks Darrsi.  Yep air filter and plugs and caps were done approx same month as carb balance. The reason for carb balance was poor running. And again it was one thing at a time,, till i found perished carb rubbers, in fact one was split. So after having everything of to fit new rubbers and also at that time i changed the throttle cable as the carb end was dry and a tad rusty.
And yep i use K&N filters, air and oil.


Because i use rear brake for tight turns i was never too bothered about the judder if i didnt use the brake as i thought it was cush drive related. But nope. And as i said theres no play any where else that i can find. Nothing was found when shes mot'd so onwards and forwards.


One thing that may have made a slight difference was when i changed spark plugs. There was nothing wrong with old ones i just decided to change to iridium ones,, just being nosey as i have read alot about them on here. I would say i found these smoother when bobbing in traffic. They seem more responsive when on/off throttle quick. Maybe just me.


After alot of reading i would say maybe the clutch has something to do with it. But theres no need for me to be in there at the moment.

Hard to explain.  . Not wrong gear choice. Like Fazerider i use rear brake to smooth out the likes of slow 2nd gear corners/junctions. 1st too slow, 3rd to high. On say a flat 2nd gear junction, just at the point of acceleration if i dont use rear brake you can feel a slight judder. Not before entering the junction, its the point that you would be round , applying throttle to change up again. But a little gentle rear brake when turning in and no judder.
But the sort of junction i first mentioned. Again a 2nd gear junction if no traffic. Turn right into junction, slight up and turning back on yourself.
 Now, 1st too slow, 3rd too high for up and round. So 2nd. Now , as i go up and round , if i was to not use rear brake youd feel the bike judder until round and straight.  But , gentle rear brake and all is fine. A bit like using rear to pull you round.


But on a flat junction where youd think , just glide round in 2nd and away,  theres that wee judder. 3d too high, 1st too slow.
As its been like this since i got the bike ive always thought about it. And when any work has been done wondered if it would smooth it out a bit, but nothing has ever changed.
Then up pops this wee judder spring in the clutch. Where and when does it stop judder?  Would over the miles become stretched or worn that would make the bike judder at any point. If at the point your putting load onto the bike to accelerate from slow speed would or does it take any pressure form the clutch to perform. Just a wee thought that made me think a bit. What juddering does it help and when?

This is something that came with the bike and i have sort of got used too,, but  always been thinking about.   And now something in [size=0px]Dman2019[/size][/color]'s clutch change topic has got me thinking again.
Symptoms,  a judder felt when taking slow junctions. One i take quite often is , off a main road , turning right ,into a small rise and sort of back on yourself again.
Solution , a touch of rear brake and no judder ..
It can happen on any slow junction and i have just learned to live with touch the rear brake gently and no judder. Nothing has ever changed it , for example new cush drive rubbers, new chain and sprockets, new rear wheel bearings, new clutch cable. Rear swing arm has no play but havent done that yet. But,,, back to [/size][size=0px]Dman2019[/size]'s topic. It mentions a JUDDER SPRING [/size][size=78%],,, mmm,,,, judder[/size] [/size][size=78%] ,,, well thats what im feeling,,, so any ideas.[/size]
This isnt urgent, as ive got used to it. But if i have spare time or even just serviceing the old bike , do you think it would be worth a wee look.
Any suggestions welcome.

And I know this will be NOTICED , the last pic has went upside down , oops. . And just to finish this one of relays . So hope that gives you some idea of what I done. And with diagram as mentioned you get great headlights. Even with standard H4 bulbs. Oh and pass switch that works. And it will pass any MOT. You will have to adjust headlight beam but you will have to do that with any kind of headlight mod, and that dosent take long.

Just to add a wee bit. There was a post from His Dudeness in January - ignition switch circuit - which had a wiring diagram for headlight upgrade using 2 relays to convert to using 2, H4 bulbs. The wiring diagram was supplied by limax2, and is easy to follow, even me . 
The only thing to think about is making a holder to convert H1 side to H4. I used the rubber boot from behind headlight to make a ring using fibre glass resin. Then using Dremel ,cut in a H4 bulb shape into hard resin. You can get a spring clip from Halfords to then hold a H4 bulb.  Then enlarged the H1 hole in headlight to accept the H4 bulb. I used more resin to hold my new holder to rear of reflector.
In the post it says "lights are 10 times better" , I would say more than 10 , even with standard H4 Bulbs. I have spots on my bike too. Since doing this to headlight I have only used the spots when it gets foggy .
I also done away with that silly side light bulb and put in two LED 501 bulbs from Halfords. Ive attached a couple of pics. Hope they work.
With the wiring diagram from limax2 it makes this job a lot easier, and gives the Fazer headlights that work. I do quite a lot of night riding and this makes it a lot more enjoyable .

This is something you could try. Ive done it before to kick an engine into life.
Youll need an extra pair of hands, old spark plugs (optional) two spark plug sockets and a small blowtorch. And good gloves.
What you do is simply heat the end of the spark plugs,, and only the end. And the quicker you do it the better it works. That's where the second pair of hands comes in, one each side of engine.
Take plugs out and heat just the end of the plug, Not Red Hot , but get them fairly hot as you want the still to be hot when you put them back in. As I said the quicker you get them in the better. Take care not to over tighten plugs when putting them in !!! at this point they just have to be IN , slightly loose by a turn wont matter at this point , as you just want to keep heat in the plugs to try and start the engine.
Have the choke set to half open, and no throttle in the first instance. Only throttle if she fires.
Have a wee try to see how quick you can put plugs back in and remember they don't have to be exactly tightened. If you use an old set of plugs , youll change them back to good ones . You can while plugs are heating put a small amount of grease around plug holes just to help putting them in when they are hot. REMEMBER when applying heat to plugs, only the very end of the plug, You can hit the first couple of threads but try not too. I have done this in the past and it works. If you can keep the heat in the plug , it gives the impression you are starting a warm engine. And so if you apply a spark to heat, if there is any fuel in any of those bores it will fire.
 I used to use one of those portable gas cookers as you can place the plugs around the flame.  And on this to give some idea of heat required ,at least  5 mins on a portable gas cooker. If you try this and get no fire in any cylinder then defenetly no fuel is getting in there.
Then going back a bit you said this problem started after being out in the rain. Is something electrical killing the engine.
Well I hope you give this a try, and if she fires remember she might be rough so don't throttle to much as choke is half open.

Hope the attachment works. After seeing LED sidelights , I decided to fit 2 of these. Looked good twin sidelights and bright . Then went for a wee spin,,, and when I got back,,, looked at lights,,, , all I could see inside headlight was bits of LED's  . Have they fell to bits or went bang ,,, I don't know . But wont be using these again.