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Messages - Fraser
1
« on: 20 July 2015, 05:09:06 pm »
hate to disappoint but I think he's sent you the wrong lever, I've just checked my spare standard clutch lever and it looks just like yours.
2
« on: 10 June 2015, 06:37:12 pm »
put a nice warm jumper on it , sorry, I'm not helping am I 
3
« on: 10 June 2015, 06:28:37 pm »
NRP Carbs 0161 832 8646, excellent service and prices
4
« on: 08 June 2015, 05:17:08 pm »
Both my Fazers had soft / not quite good enough clutches even though they were low miles and always bike oil, I bought some heavier clutch springs from WEMOTO, EBC + 10%, less than £20 delivered including new cover gasket.
This may sound weird until you look at your clutch but I only fit 4 of the heavier springs cuz all 6 makes the lever too heavy, obviously fitted in a symetrical pattern,
5
« on: 21 May 2015, 06:04:46 pm »
Sorry for delay, you need a Givi part number BF05
6
« on: 21 May 2015, 06:03:17 pm »
Excellent, many thanks for your help guys.
7
« on: 19 May 2015, 12:33:46 pm »
I've got one on mine, I will find the receipt with part number and post up within the next couple of days.
8
« on: 19 May 2015, 12:30:22 pm »
Sounds like a very rude word !! does anyone know the standard amount of fork protrusion on a 98 ( the bit above the top yoke ) I've lost my bit of paper with dimensions LOL
thanks
9
« on: 14 May 2015, 05:30:34 pm »
Have you removed the rear wheel to check if the spacer is in between sprocket carrier and wheel , and all the cush drive rubbers are there , also has the rear spindle been torqued correctly ? just tightening it FT can cause probs, if they forgot to tighten the caliper there is no guarantee that everthing else is ok !!!!!! at the very least, drop the chain off the wheel and check that the wheel spins freely without any noises, sorry to be an alarmist, I've experienced some real knuckle draggers in the motor trade .
10
« on: 13 May 2015, 04:59:17 pm »
I spotted one on Gumtree today for £ 20 + p&p
11
« on: 13 May 2015, 04:56:47 pm »
Do they bury all the bikes or just for special customers !!!!!!!!!!
12
« on: 08 May 2015, 05:20:54 pm »
Back fires would indicate un burnt fuel getting into the exhaust, ie some sort of spark plug misfire. if you changed the plugs you would obviously have had to pull off the plug caps, check that the ht leads are still tight in the caps, and just as a long shot, did you spray anything into/over the plug caps before refitting ? there are many products out there ie brake cleaner which leaves a conductive surface when it drys. perfect for causing misfires and back fires . The only safe product I've personnally found is WD40,
13
« on: 24 April 2015, 05:12:46 pm »
Eh, the formula for circumference is pie x d , therefore, measure circumference with tape, divide that by pie, 3.1416 and you have the diameter, or as close as you need it,
how the hell do you get a pie symbol on a computer ??
14
« on: 18 April 2015, 10:27:37 am »
I feel a bit like entering the lions den with this one !
I found PR3's excellent in the wet and when cold , the best I've ever had, BUT they did have some limitations in the dry, I could light up the rear tyre coming out of a bend without too much provocation, I had them on my Ducati S2R 800 so maybe not a fair comparison with a Fazer, best tyres I've had for all round use on my Fazer were Continental Conti Motion, they got proper slagged off in the press and they didn't last long but they very good , predictable grip all the time. now running Dunlop Sportmax 209, so far so good, just my tuppence worth,
15
« on: 07 April 2015, 05:50:32 pm »
Ive always been a fan of EBC HH, good when hot and for me, good when commuting in the rain, no delay in braking waiting for the water to disperse, got them in my FZS, awesome, love them.
16
« on: 05 April 2015, 06:27:14 pm »
I changed mine a couple of weeks ago and decided to go with 12.5 w oil, ( bottle of 10w plus a bottle of 15w, mix thoroughly ) not as soft and quisy as 10w and not quite so harsh as 15w, this not a rcommendation, its just what I did and so far it seems a reasonable compromise .
supporting the front end is actually not that simple if you don't have some proper gear, I pushed long 1/2" socket set extensions into the front engine mount tube, one from each side and then supported them on axle stands,
17
« on: 30 March 2015, 05:00:35 pm »
not sure best place to post this ! NRP Carbs 0161 832 8646
I ordered some obscure parts for my 99 FZS carburettors on Friday and got them today, £ 17.40 incl p&p.
AJ Sutton wanted £32 + p&p and didn't have them in stock !!
They cover all carb parts.
18
« on: 28 March 2015, 10:00:24 am »
Just checked my unmolested bike, its the same, you don't have anything missing, the rubber mount has to be able to move.
19
« on: 13 March 2015, 01:10:34 pm »
Went for the standard plugs , my local motor factors had them on the shelf, £ 16.80 incl vat for a set. thanks for the input,
20
« on: 12 March 2015, 05:43:49 pm »
Are they worth the extra money ? do you notice any difference or is just that they last longer ? thanks in advance for any advice, Fraser
21
« on: 02 March 2015, 12:51:02 pm »
As title, needs to be in very good condition or I will attempt to repair mine, thanks
22
« on: 27 February 2015, 09:06:56 am »
So I've found and bought another Fazer, bit concerned cuz it is a Q plate , paid £ 600 from my local dealer. He had only just got it in. It looked a bit sad but after a closer examination it actually looked in good condition , just needing a bit of TLC. The bad bits- wheels need painting as do the fork lowers, the tyres look a bit perished.
He dropped it off at my house last night with a wad of paperwork.
Now the good bits, be prepared for a shock
One owner from new
1st registered in QATAR in April 1999, I have the original bill of sale, imported by the owner 2007 when he had NEW UK speedo and headlight fitted, it has been serviced and MOT'd every year since import but has only done 750 miles during that time. It has only done 2850 miles from new , having spent most of its life in the warm rust free enviroment of QATAR and lived in a heated garage since being imported. It was Mot;'d 31-1-15 when the previous owner part exchaged it into a main dealer. If anyone could help me to determine its exact year of manufacture I will try to get an age related registration number, I'm guessing its got to be a 1998 or 99, thanks, Fraser
23
« on: 12 March 2014, 05:06:20 pm »
I can't really notice any difference with the comp adjusters all the way in. I guess it's time to remove and get rebuilt, it's only done 2k miles and is immaculate but I guess the previous owner/muppet could have removed a bolt or screw and drained the oil ?? will update when rebuilt, Fraser
24
« on: 11 March 2014, 05:34:27 pm »
I fitted a 2010 R6 shock a few weeks ago and it seems a lot better, but, I don't seem to be able to adjust the rebound enough, I have carefully counted the clicks from all the way out to all the way in and even with it one click out it still does not seem to be controlling the rebound as I expected. I am used to a shock that you can "over" adjust ie, the seat rises too slowly , any comments please, Fraser
25
« on: 10 March 2014, 06:21:51 pm »
+1 mine came on when riding downhill, it only needed a 100ml top up for the oil to show half way up the glass and the light hasn't come on since ,
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