Hi, Does anyone have a good recent experience with purchasing replacement carb inlet rubbers (FZS1000 2002), eBay or whatever? 
I’m fairly sure mine are shot. Just back on the road after winter lay-up and the Bike is stuttering at idle/very low revs and I can see WD40 kind of moving (not exactly getting sucked in) in the cracks and around the clamp on the left outside carb….   ?   
Could also be blocked idle jet(s) I suppose but either way I don’t think the current rubbers will stand the trauma of getting the carbs off and on again!
Many Thanks.

So the tapping went well 
Lots of oil, and just wound it in, bars mounted on the bike, backing off a bit every half turn or so, and checking left/right up/down alignment regularly.  The aluminium is surprising soft and easy to work with.
Bar ends fitted lovely!
I marked the positions for the switchgear holes, covered them in a few layers of sellotape, drilled a small pilot hole, followed by the actual drill size I wanted.
Again no problem at all, no slipping, don't know what I was worried about!


PS don't pick up the oily ally swarf with the Mrs' mini-Dyson.  Looks like I may be buying a new one of those,  Doh!

Yeh the original Yamaha 'ends seem lovely and heavy.  I wonder if I wreck the Renthals trying to tap them will some aftermarket 'expanding' type still fit..?   
I've got a cheap pillar drill in the garage which will hopefully do the switchgear holes, if I can manage to mark the right spot.  I'm just putting it off really!

I got the '758' bars, in Silver. They call them 'Road Bike Ultra Low'.  I wouldn't say there's any more rise than the standard bars, they're a little wider, and quite a bit less raked back at the ends.  Feels a slightly more 'aggressive' riding position. 
I haven't got the master cylinder on yet but with a 'dry run' it seems like the length of the HEL lines will be fine, especially if I route them to the right of the horn bracket etc (2 lines, not 3).
I'm waiting on getting the nerve to attempt tapping the bars in order to use the stock bar ends....   And drilling the holes for the switchgear in the right places. Gulp!  The tap has arrived (~£9.50 Amazon), but Brave Pill, and clear head, needed!

Who knew there was a 'Secret Extra Bleed Nipple' around the back of the rear caliper?!
Spent ages (and lots of Dot4) this afternoon trying to bleed the new rear line, -couldn't get a 'firm pedal' and eventually gave up thinking I needed a Master Cylinder repair kit or something.
Then later I happened to be around the other side of the bike and spotted it.  Job done! :-)

I took the tank off for the first time last night, kinda wished I hadn't.  Geez what a lot of c**p there is under there!  No decent access to anything. 
Has anyone, ever, managed to change the #2 and #3 plugs with the engine in situ?!  I looked at the outer ones, using the gadget in the bike tool kit. They seem ok condition/mixture, Iridium type, bit loose in their threads...   So I pondered doing away with the AIS, to make a bit of space, but I can't see how you'd get the main chunk of it out!? 
I suppose I should renew the coolant anyway, and removing the radiator doesn't look too big a deal, maybe then I could check/change the middle two plugs? 
There's a nice clean K and N filter in there, guess I should have checked before ordering a new paper one from Yambits, Doh!
On the outer two carbs (at least), there are no sealing plugs over the idle mixture screws. Were they there as standard on UK bikes?  I wonder if it's been 'got at' already, carb wise.  It did seem to go REALLY well on my shortish test ride...
Brake lines and bleed nipples arrived today, jobs are stacking up, conservatory stinks of petrol already, Mrs on the warpath.  My comment that 'At least the Harley in the lounge doesn't smell' = Wrong answer.

So I've gone with the HEL lines, full set, ~£74 with the discount.
Bleed nipples very corroded, and covers missing, so they're on their way from Yambits.
Also some silver Renthals (758) from somewhere called '24MX' - £39.   Nowhere else had any in stock.
£££££  I've only had it two days!!
The Best fun though.

I'd like to connect a voltmeter, just an £8 thing from Amazon.
I've got one on my Blackbird after getting stranded (notorious for Reg/Rec issues, in fact one of the 'cures' is to fit an R1 item!) and it's great for peace of mind. 
So I need a 'switched' live feed, preferably near to the battery, maybe with a junction so I don't have to cut into anything.
Anybody done similar?

Thanks all 
Still pondering, I just did a 'dry run' on the HEL website and can confirm Forum25 works as a discount code. (-25%)
Venhill seems to have availability issues.

So the bike has turned up this morning and seems to be in great condition, just some very slight scratches on the (standard) silencer. 
Any views/experiences on good/bad/ugly aftermarket cans?  Budget £200 or less really, looking for good torque, and I imagine I'll do a 'carb jetting job' of some sort this Winter.
I've looked at PipeWerx, Beowulf, Black Widow, Delkevic, Fuel, Scorpion (bit pricey), etc.
But how to choose...?

Hi,  Just bought a red Fazer 1000 Gen 1, only 16,000 miles.
Haven't got my hands on it yet (or even seen it) since it was bought over the phone.
It's gonna be in the conservatory all Winter as a project and I plan to strip it down a bit and do all the 'usual' stuff.
Looking forward to lots of great advice from you guys.
:-)