Will bear that in mind.


Main thing i am bothered about now is not the reading but where the leaking is...


Have a leak down kit on the way, so with the air compressor i have, should be able to find the culprit...

Hi All,


My FZS600, i am getting it on the road again, the FZS1000 is giving me issue and needs engine work.


I took it for an MOT and it failed, to my shock, the reason being when the indicators are on the headlight dims, so in time with the flashing of the indicators you can see it get a little less bright...


I am a little miffed, i mean, its not obvious and you really have to be looking to see it, but i am not sure what to check.


Any one dealt with issues like that?


Will be checking my FZS1000 lights to see if that does the same.


Anutz

Its an un-branded one that cost 40$, but i do have a Gunson one, just not the right adapter, so may look for the right diameter one


Maybe if i am lucky it will be off by 60PSI and all they cylinders are fine 

Just ordered an 12mm to 10mm adapter for the Gunson so next week should be able to test with a 2nd gauge....

Hi All,


Not had chance to do a leak down test but i did re-check my work and re-checked the clearances, modified 1 or 2, and i now have 118-124 across the board i.e. all in between that range, so an improvement, if just a little one.


I spoke to a local mechanic, an MOT Tester, and he said it would run on those pressures, and its not too bad considering age, i don't know. It does fire up, and today once it warmed up i took it up and down a private road, and it rode fine, seemed to have power etc


I can get it to start, but it needs, when cold full choke and a whack of throttle, then its touch and go until it warms up, he did say to check fuel lines and carbs as well as it could be fuel starvation.


I am not sure which way to turn, do i do a leak down test, are my pressures significantly bad, i know compared to the manual they are about 50 PSI off minimum, but those with experience in seeing compression in FZS1000's are the values i have massively low.....


If so then i will just park the bike for now, have my 600 going through MOT once i have calipers sorted, so i can live without, but am keen to diagnose and fix, its a busy month however, fuel pump on my MG ZT has just died so other priorities.


Thanks


Anutz

now thats a clean engine....mine looks awful 

A quick look at Cylinder 2 and 3 on intake with the 0.10mm gauge i have, won't fit so these are at most 0.09mm if not worse, need to find some thinner and narrower gauges before i can get proper readings but looking like all 3 cylinder so far have significant tightness on the clearances.

All the problems described could be caused by incorrect valve timing. As the cylinder head has been off check and check again.
That's timing, not valve clearances.

I know this is 100% spot on, it took me several attempts when i did it but got the mark dots lined up 100% and wound it on manually several times, no change in position, so timing is spot on...


looking more and more like clearances, so will be measuring and report back shortly...

A quick method to find where the compression is going is to carry out a leak down test.
Cylinder at TDC (you may have to hold the crank with a spanner) then feed approx 80 psi into the cylinder (convert a spark plug to take an air line). If the rings/bores are worn you'll hear the escaping air from the crankcase breather/oil filler, if its an exhaust valve you'll hear it from the exhaust etc.

Years and years ago I had a GS550, which one day refused to start - checked the compression's and they were all around the 100 mark, which is not enough to encourage combustion. A rebore on all pots had the wee beasty running sweet again.

I have an old air compressor so i may have a look at this

So done cylinder 1 and 2, and no difference, actually got worse a tad on cylinder 2, stopped now to let battery re-charge.


Assuming i now need to go check valve clearnaces and see if they are too tight i.e. shim too big and so holding the valve off its seat...


Will get coolant drained so i can get the water pipes sticking out of the head disconnected etc


 

Hi All,


 thanks for the input...


when i did the head gasket i just noted where the shims were i did not re-check it all, i only did the gasket due to removing the head to get all studs removed and replaced with SS, so was not looking at a running issue.....but it had a difficult start, i got it with other issues and they took priority, only now have i had chance to realise there is an issue with the engine


unfazed, when i did the test i have the carbs off, is this a stupid mistake or is that ok, i figured it would make no difference but may be wrong?


I am going to try some oil soon in each barrel, but they are darn low figures....especially in relation to what tommy posted....


the low compression explains the crap starting and less than what i expected in terms of brute power.

Hi,


I have been having issues with the bike just not feeling like its got the power it should have....


It also seemed hard to start, always needs full choke and even after warming a little is easy to stall, unless its been ridden for a while and its red hot...


I have checked a few things, Carb Sync, all but one are spot on, cylinder 3 shows a little less reading than the rest, 20 less, so is an issue there.


I also took the chance to measure the cylinder compression and get from 1-4 readings of 110, 100, 115, 102, so varied and well off what the service manual states.


Will be trying to pop some oil in the cylinders tommorow or Monday see what a re-test shows.


Engine has done 47K, and i had to replace the Water Pump and rear wheel bearing when i got it, not well looked after...


I also changed all exhaust studs and replaced the cylinder head gasked whilst in there, replaced spark plugs also.


Anyone any comments, do these readings seem well out or reasonable for a bike of this mileage/age


Anutz

got some old new black ones off ebay....no idea why replacement part would be different but not going to mess around