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Messages - b1k3rdude
Pages: 1 ... 89 90 [91] 92
2251
« on: 02 January 2012, 10:34:29 pm »
you have an email.
ps. I would change the spelling of yer email address (so you dont get bot spam) and edit out the reg on the second pic - so ne'er do wells cant to take a copy of it etc.
2252
« on: 02 January 2012, 10:23:09 pm »
You have a PM.
2253
« on: 20 December 2011, 12:18:53 am »
pm'd you about some pics...
2254
« on: 20 December 2011, 12:18:22 am »
you have a PM regarding some pics...
2255
« on: 19 December 2011, 11:24:08 pm »
If his is still for sale after my search, I will consider it a backup plan as its a 150 mile trip etc.
2256
« on: 19 December 2011, 03:36:58 pm »
Due to the shitty weather and not being able to find the right Fazer 1000 to replace the one that got smashed a few weeks ago I am looking at getting a 600 so I have something to keep me mobile.
Have a budget of upto £1000, can be the square or foxeye, mileage unimportant but needs to be mechanically sound and preferably have a some sort of service history.
ta.
nb. did spot the silver fzs a few post below, but its above the budget.
2257
« on: 17 December 2011, 10:20:12 am »
you may want to post some images for others to see.
2258
« on: 04 December 2011, 12:07:39 pm »
I refer you to the second line of the first post.
2259
« on: 01 December 2011, 09:29:45 pm »
you have a pm.
2260
« on: 01 December 2011, 10:33:12 am »
I've got a set of oxford muff's on the bike, the secret is you need bolt them to the end of the bar ends! 1. take the bar end of and drill a 6mm hole inside the allen key hole. 2. tap & thread said hole. 3. Obtain - M6x20 allen bolt
- 2x 6mm*20mm washers (one on the inside and one on the outside of the muff)
- 1x 6mm*20mm rubber/plastic washer (between the bar end and the inside metal washer)
4. Then make a hole 20mm back from the large plastic cuff on the muff, just where the seem meet. 5. Use the allen bolt & washer from above. 6. Use 1/2 cable ties to fix the other end of the juff to the throttle/brake/clutch cables etc. So as someone has already mentioned, the above with some heated grips and you'll never get cold hands again. I have done the same thing with a cheap pair of muffs and the hire bike I am currently using, would you like me to take pics...?
2261
« on: 01 December 2011, 08:56:30 am »
Replied.
2262
« on: 30 November 2011, 12:18:41 am »
Got knocked of, bike a write off, so....
Im looking for a Gen1 with a black engine and frame with around 10k on the clock, but will consider higher mileage if have FSH and looked after.
Can travel within reason to view.
2263
« on: 30 November 2011, 12:17:14 am »
So looking for a replacement.
Im looking for a Gen1 with a black engine and frame with around 10k on the clock, but will consider higher if have FSH and looked after.
2264
« on: 14 November 2011, 09:47:49 pm »
Serviced the Exup, but one of the bolts was so corroded that even after an hour of fuch penatrating fluid and some gentle persuation the bolt sheared. Found a load of gunk(looked like some sort of resin) all over the pully and cables. The bogging down or starting issue wasnt there after servicing, but a longer checking/testing period maybe in order.
Did find that the clutch is slipping when you give it a handfull, so will help matey swap the springs/friction plates when the time comes. Other than that the bike is a gooden.
2265
« on: 06 November 2011, 08:38:31 pm »
Hi Nicko
The only thing you need to remove is the petrol tank and the HT coils. Put a towel or rag over the cam cover to stop the AIS assy scratching it. As the AUIS assy is never going to go back on and fit fore the bin this is how I did it.
1. remove petrol tank and HT coils and placed some old tshirts over the cam cover.
2. using side cutters I cut the rubber tubes that connect the AIS to the AIS pipes.
3. undue/remove allen bolts that hold AIS pipes in situe, then the 10mm bolts that mount the AIS unit to the frame
4. with either a long reach flat blade screw driver or an 8mm socket and extension, loosen the jubilee screws on the end of the AIS pipes.
5. gently and patiently to remove AIS pipes, taking car not sratch the frame or the cam cover. (I had to rotate the pipes in a few directions before they came out.) The AIS come in pairs, left and right sides as you look down at the bike.
6. Then the final job is to the gently and patiently to remove AIS unit, this took me 15-20 mins to get the right rotation and angle to get the unit out without scratching anything.
Job done, I have to do/show a local foccer to how to do it so if you like I can take pics.?!
2266
« on: 06 November 2011, 08:02:39 pm »
I was in the shop at the same time as he was looking to buy another bike, long story short after getting the lowdown from me and a quick test ride he was sold!
So next sunday, I will take it for a test ride to accertain the bogging down issue(see if its the exup or just the "they all do that sir, you just gotta get the technique right", show him how to service the exup, have a look at the accessory socket in the infill panel and find a competitively priced battery should it need replacing.
2267
« on: 21 October 2011, 12:38:30 pm »
nevermind, I found the info out from yamah uk.
2268
« on: 21 October 2011, 07:07:08 am »
Anyone got any info on this..
2269
« on: 19 October 2011, 09:27:59 pm »
Got a mate who has lat his pads get down to the metal and fucked his discs in the process, so Im after a set of either new or used, pattern or original discs for said bike.
ta.
2270
« on: 14 October 2011, 07:35:02 pm »
On the way home from work, minding my own etc. Filter of the m-way down the slip road and half way down out of nowhere I get a cnut up behind. At the roundabout junction we both pull away from the lights but I have position as we go round, again right up behind me. So at this point not only am I trying to navigate the useal idiots in cars by have to cater for fuckwit aswell...
I then take my turning and open it up, as I get to the bottom where the turning/sliproad meets the dual carrageway, again I have position. So what does matey do, 80mph+ up in the inside of a car to get in front of me and then carry's on accelerating at speed up the dual carragway weaving between cars etc. I easily & safely catch up and eventually pull up at the lights.
I get some crap about being in his way.... he's been riding since he was 15.... he will punch my light out... blah blah. My reply back, 'it dosent take a genious to see you were riding like a cnut', more verbal from him... but just ignored him at that point. So we pull away again, I get position again, again he is up my arse, but this time there is no where for him to go, further up the road after it widens up he is trying to act cool and goad me at which point I ignore and go on my way.
His bike, looked like a 2011 Z1000, but the twat was wearing a motorcross helmet with no eye protection... says it all.
2271
« on: 12 October 2011, 05:55:44 pm »
I was after the long ones aswell... 
2272
« on: 08 October 2011, 12:35:59 pm »
whats bits do you have atm (that ar ok or faulty) and what do you need.
I ask because its highly possible you dont need any parts, you will be able to refurb the itme syou already have etc.
2273
« on: 08 October 2011, 12:27:36 pm »
and pics & price
second dibs.
2274
« on: 07 October 2011, 10:11:12 am »
My previous thou's never needed to the clutch replacing, so can't say for sure. All I can say is with the pattern plates/springs in in the brand new clutch & boss, the cable adjusted to there was virtually no free-play, the biting point was 1.5-2" away from the bar!
that is how mine is at the moment
Hmmm, you could try the pattern plates with your old springs, as long as the springs aren't shorter than 50mm they can be reused.
2275
« on: 06 October 2011, 01:22:45 pm »
My previous thou's never needed to the clutch replacing, so can't say for sure. All I can say is with the pattern plates/springs in in the brand new clutch & boss, the cable adjusted to there was virtually no free-play, the biting point was 1.5-2" away from the bar!
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