Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: blackcabbie on 08 August 2020, 05:57:48 pm
-
it does not need choke to start
-
If it’s been Ivanised, most don’t need any choke to start. Mine certainly doesn’t.
-
If it’s been Ivanised, most don’t need any choke to start. Mine certainly doesn’t.
From cold, mine always needed choke.
-
yep it was ivanised 15 years ago by mike gtx...... not full monty though....... is there any adjustment on carbs to lean it out a bit......end can exit looks a little bit sooty as well....... just come back from a 1400 mile 6 day trip to scotland on it...... it did run faultless though....
doesnt need any choke to cold start...... in fact i could do away with the choke all together..... i never use it, thats another clue maybe to suggest its running a bit rich ?
cheers
-
Mine has been ivanised by Mike and I never need choke to start.
-
Those plug electrodes look about right tho don't they?. I thought all the carb engine Fazers ran slightly on the rich side. You often hear 600 owners say that they don't need any choke on cold starts. Assuming Ivanising has a deliberate enriching effect, wouldn't you just be tampering with that by trying to lean it off?.
-
Those plug electrodes look about right tho don't they?. I thought all the carb engine Fazers ran slightly on the rich side. You often hear 600 owners say that they don't need any choke on cold starts. Assuming Ivanising has a deliberate enriching effect, wouldn't you just be tampering with that by trying to lean it off?.
Agreed. I’d replace the plugs and leave it well alone if running OK
-
Looks OK - when was air filter last changed?
Whale
-
it had a air filter about 4k miles ago...... if you all think its ok , thats good enough for me...... i just expected the plugs to be a bit more on the brown side of black....... the only reason i took them out to check was because the end can exit pipe looked a bit sooty....... its running ok though, all be it a bit juicy on the mpg ....
cheers
-
My Gen 1 1000 struggles to start with choke on but once started revs rise as if choke is on, back it off then ticks over fine and runs great. Never had one of these before, not sure if it has been Ivanised or jet kit.
-
it had a air filter about 4k miles ago...... if you all think its ok , thats good enough for me...... i just expected the plugs to be a bit more on the brown side of black....... the only reason i took them out to check was because the end can exit pipe looked a bit sooty....... its running ok though, all be it a bit juicy on the mpg ....
cheers
My first Fazer post Ivanising by Mike GTX had textbook brown plugs and I could avg 50mpg two up and spanking it.
My second Fazer also Ivanised by Mike has black plugs much like your photos and a sooty end can. So like you I think it is a little on the rich side even with a K&N air filter.
Rich is safe but I have a hankering for perfect fueling. My intention was to ask my local spanner (who is very good) about it. I also have a number for an ex Yam dealer spanner so I may well ask him too. I shall update this if I find anything out.
The option is to fiddle the mixture screws but the engineer in me would want to measure "how much" and without a sophisticated analyser machine I wouldn't know the best way to go about it.
Bw
-
timbo.... if you find out anything it would be much appreciated..... my understanding ( and i may be wrong ) is that the mixture screws will only affect the idling circuit and it would need different jets to alter the normal fuelling..... i would like it to run a bit leaner as well.......
wish mike was still about to give an input.
cheers
-
I'm still checking in from time to time but currently rather preoccupied. Father had a stroke back in April and we're over in the UK caring for him since his discharge from hospital.
The pilot jet, needle and main jet influence on fuelling is cumulative rather than separate. As the throttle is opened, the needle profile and main jet size take precedence but fuel still flows through the pilot jet and the idle mixture screw setting still has some influence on the a/f ratio at mid-full throttle.
I found that if you tend to ride mostly on part-throttle and keep the revs below 6-7k rpm then the plugs will be more likely to show blackish and there will be some sooting around the exhaust outlet.
Although Ivan recommends 4.5 - 5 turns out on the mixture screws, I settled on 4 - 4.25 turns after a few years of doing his kit installations. Ivan also says it's optional to enlarge the second bypass hole. I favoured just enlarging one hole - it didn't seem to make any difference on performance but reduced the tendency to run too rich at idle.
While plug colour is a guide to fuelling, it doesn't tell the whole story. Anyone who remembers doing plug chops on 2-strokes will understand what I mean. :)
The plugs in the OP's photo are much like mine were and I would call them typical of a Full Monty installation. You could spend time and money on a dyno trying to fine tune the mixture screw setting but I suspect it would make only a marginal difference. Is it worth the hassle and cost to strive for an ideal a/f ratio at the very bottom end of the rev range/throttle position? I don't think so. :)
Cheers!
Mike
-
I'm still checking in from time to time but currently rather preoccupied. Father had a stroke back in April and we're over in the UK caring for him since his discharge from hospital.
The pilot jet, needle and main jet influence on fuelling is cumulative rather than separate. As the throttle is opened, the needle profile and main jet size take precedence but fuel still flows through the pilot jet and the idle mixture screw setting still has some influence on the a/f ratio at mid-full throttle.
I found that if you tend to ride mostly on part-throttle and keep the revs below 6-7k rpm then the plugs will be more likely to show blackish and there will be some sooting around the exhaust outlet.
Although Ivan recommends 4.5 - 5 turns out on the mixture screws, I settled on 4 - 4.25 turns after a few years of doing his kit installations. Ivan also says it's optional to enlarge the second bypass hole. I favoured just enlarging one hole - it didn't seem to make any difference on performance but reduced the tendency to run too rich at idle.
While plug colour is a guide to fuelling, it doesn't tell the whole story. Anyone who remembers doing plug chops on 2-strokes will understand what I mean. :)
The plugs in the OP's photo are much like mine were and I would call them typical of a Full Monty installation. You could spend time and money on a dyno trying to fine tune the mixture screw setting but I suspect it would make only a marginal difference. Is it worth the hassle and cost to strive for an ideal a/f ratio at the very bottom end of the rev range/throttle position? I don't think so. :)
Cheers!
Mike
Sorry to hear about your father mate, very best wishes.
This is sound advice as ever from Mike. All you're doing is trying to chase a very small error for very little gain at a fair bit of cost.
Providing the bike is running well and fuel consumption isn't increasing, it's fine. 2 stroke plug chop, now there's a blast from the past, K&N's, expansion chambers, box of jets, I could get the carbs off the RD swap the mains and/or needle height, back on in about 20mins, not so easy on the H2 and triple GT's mind :rolleyes
-
thanks for responding everyone, especially mike gtx......on the advice of all, i'll ride more, worry less.
cheers all
-
Thanks Mike!