Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: FZ1obp on 22 February 2017, 07:29:45 pm
-
Just had the tyres changed and the shop reminded me that the rear disc at 45,000 miles is close to US ...(no no not Donald).
Looking on line think I'm going for a standard EBC disc at around £90 - the other makes I don't know about and have a few bad experiences on the KTMs with after market discs that wear out in a few miles.
Any thoughts?
The other issue is getting the old disc off as I understand that it's a 'mare - so plan is to warm the assembly up, at penetrating oil, leave, warm up again and then use impact driver on the heads. If they shear off then I'll have to drill out and retap.
Again any ideas would be really helpful.
Thanks guys
orlando
-
EBC or a used OE is the way forward.
The secret to removal IMO is to ensure you have a quality Allen bit fitment for a 3/9 or 1/2" drive rachet and tackle it that way.
I have always avoided impact wrenchs or, god forbid, a windy gun.
I have ever needed heat or penetrating oil.
Fit new pads as a matter of course and properly service the caliper while you are at it.
Whale
-
Just had the tyres changed and the shop reminded me that the rear disc at 45,000 miles is close to US ...(no no not Donald).
Looking on line think I'm going for a standard EBC disc at around £90 - the other makes I don't know about and have a few bad experiences on the KTMs with after market discs that wear out in a few miles.
Any thoughts?
The other issue is getting the old disc off as I understand that it's a 'mare - so plan is to warm the assembly up, at penetrating oil, leave, warm up again and then use impact driver on the heads. If they shear off then I'll have to drill out and retap.
Again any ideas would be really helpful.
Thanks guys
orlando
Not sure if it a similar set up on the Gen 1 to the FZS600?
My rear wheel FZS600 has largish holes or openings in the wheel hub and the bolts that hold the disc on are long and protrude into the hollow wheel hub, the ends of the bolts rust and can cause the alloy threads in the wheel to be ripped out as you extract the bolts, spray plenty of WD onto the bolts through the openings. I also got at them through these openings with a Dremel with a small wire attachment (Bloody awkward) and gave them a good buzzing with that and also went gently with a gas blow lamp with a pencil flame and warmed the areas around each bolt. As mentioned above use a good allen key and keep the thing pressed hard into the head and allen key square on as the indentation in the bolt/screw heads is not very deep and they slip easy. Good luck :thumbup
-
Whale and Tommy
Thx for your input - all noted although I think the Gen 2 bikes are a bit different from Gen 1 that said comments still very applicable!
Just finding the best source for the disc as Wemoto who I usually use don't have them ex stock, a few more days shouldn't be too bad; new pads, CS bolts and caliper clean ad service is on the way.
Cheers again
-
In reference to tommyardin's post WD40 isn't specifically designed to be a penetrating fluid so there are better options around designed for the purpose such as Plus Gas which should be more effective.
-
In reference to tommyardin's post WD40 isn't specifically designed to be a penetrating fluid so there are better options around designed for the purpose such as Plus Gas which should be more effective.
Yeah! someone else told me that WD is not the best for loosening bolts and that it is a short term lubricant and good for displacing moisture. Plusgas it is then, I shall get some today for 'THE SHED' :rolleyes