Bikes, Hints'n'Tips > Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner

Gen2 Fazer 1000 (FZ1): FAQ for New and Prospective Owners

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What is it?

The FZ1-S & FZ1-N Gen2 Fazer was released in 2006/2007 as the bigger sibling to the FZ6 and shared the same design brief, sports bike engine in a cast alloy chassis with the everyday rider in mind when it came to practicalities such as riding position & center stand etc. The engine in the Gen2 is the Fuel injected 2002 R1 engine with some modifications to tame the power delivery and focus more on mid-range and torque. The chassis is heavier and longer than the R1 taming the handling to match the road going bias of the bike. Where the FZ1 loses out to the FZS is comfort and tank range. And for Yamaha, what should have been a masterstroke quickly descended into a bit of a nightmare…


•    Engine: 998cc, 20v, DOHC liquid-cooled inline four
•    Power: 148bhp @ 11,000rpm
•    Torque: 78.2ftlb @ 8000rpm
•    Weight: 200Kg (dry)
•    Seat Height 815mm/32”
•    Wheelbase: 1460
•    Tank size: 18 liters
•    Tyres: 120/70-ZR17 and 190/50-ZR17

Which one should I buy?

•    It’s a fantastic bike but early models (2006/2007) have several issues(see below). A lot if not all of these issues were rectified by Yamaha after 2010. The 2010 models feature an all-black exhaust end can (the previous generations have a silver tip and heat shield.
•    Get up close to the frame and check the main weld seam under the fuel tank. There are have been a lot of reports of cracking on the 2006/2007 model. There was never official recall for this, which is insulting at best or dangerous at worst.
•    Second on the list is if the previous owner has sorted the fuelling. A ECU remap or Power Commander and race pipe is always a good sign and certainly improves the bike’s snatchy throttle response. But on 2010 and above model Yamaha finally fixed the bloody issue. Will need to check if 2010+ owners needed to fit a Power-Commander or not.
•    Be wary of owners who go too far as the FZ1 especially is often modified with new bars (Renthals are popular) tail tidies and cosmetic alterations. If the bike has been changed from standard always check the quality of the workmanship as hacked wiring looms and replacement bars that hit the tank are not ideal!
•    Always inspect the suspension linkages as they are prone to seizing and by now the suspension units themselves will probably be needed a rebuild or refresh, so look for any weeps and check their damping by bouncing the bike up and down.
•    The Yamaha immobilizer system ( YISS ) requires a 'red master’ key to create normal copies and without this master you are potentially looking at a new ECU, lock set & immobiliser. So when buying an FZ1 always check its included in the sale. But should you loose the red master please see the following thread -
•    Prices from £2500 at the lower end, but up your budget to £3500 and you should secure a very tidy example of an early generation. The FZ1 and FZ1 Fazer go for roughly the same price and both are plentiful in the used market. If you want a final generation (black exhaust) expect to pay around £4200 to £5000 depending on mileage and condition with late model bikes going for £6500. But at that price point you can get a 2016/2017 Kawasaki Z1000SX, with traction control and LED headlights.•    This model was sold from 2006-2012 so be aware that some some cheeky dealers are trying to palm-off late 2012 models that were registered late as 2015 artificially inflating the price.

What should I look out for?

•  CRACKED FRAME - 2006/2007 models have had reports of cracked main and sub frames. In a nutshell the welds are just failing and Yamaha never issued a recall of any kind for this. If a bike has this issue the sensible decision is to walk away. That said frame can be found online, so you can get the bike cheap and have the skills you could do a frame swap.
•  BAD FUEL MAP - 2006/2007 models of FZ1 and FZ1 Fazer were plagued with a poor throttle response, so much so that Yamaha sneaked a quick update out for 2007 that comprised of a new ECU with an updated fuel map within it. While slightly better, it was far from perfect and it wasn’t until 2010 that they finally got it right.
•  GENERATOR ROTOR FAILURE - 2006/2007 models have had reports of the rotor failing, what seems to cause the rotor to fail is the poor adhesion of the magnet segments, once they start moving this crates imbalance, it's this imbalance that causes the rear bearing (93306-20230) behind the idler sprocket (5VY-15517-00) and the front bearing (93306-20124)to fail. Its precisely because the design of the rotor/magnet on the 2006/2007 was so poor that Yamaha started selling the superseded/update version on the quiet with no announcement what so ever! When what they should have been doing, is issuing a recall on that f*cking part and/or offering free swap for anyone who wanted it. The job only takes a home mechanic 30-45mins to do, let alone a trained mechanic. There are bunch of videos on youtube on howto swap-out the flywheel/rotor. Quality replacement rotors/stator are available from MotoElectrical here.
•  CORRODED HEADERS  - A common issue with FZ1's is the headers corroding, the studs, nuts and flanges are made of low quality steel which starts rusting the instant the bike roles of the forecourt. So you either find abike with header nuts are still removable and copaslip them. Or find a bike where the stud/nuts have been replaced with stainless
•  CHANGING GEAR - from 1st to 2nd, the bike will go into neutral instead of 2nd. This happens below 3k rpm which equates to 20mph and when the engine is upto temp. I have personally test ridden 4x FZ1's, (1x2009/13k, 3x 2007/22k, 15k & 36K) the 09 and one (15k) of the 07's had this issue.
•  There is the occasional reports of an ignition coil/s dying or regulator/rectifier needing replacing.
•  The riders seat is like a plank of wood, and it’s the first thing most owners replace. This seems to be par for the course with new bikes these days.
•  Less midrange torque/power than the Gen1 FZS, can be mitigates by getting a remap done? ( need to confirm with a tuning shop)

Things that will brake in a smash.

•    Just like the gen1 FZS, the sub-frame and headlight wont survive if any part of the front gets a hard enough side impact. And by that I mean the sub-frame (what the headlight & whole front fairing mounts too) gets tweaked and so things don't line up perfectly anymore. And some or all of the headlight mounts get snapped off. So like I and other owners did for the gen1 FZS, find and buy some spare - levers, mirrors, indicators, infill panels, a sub-frame, a headlamp 
•    The front foot-peg bracket its mounted to tabs that are part of the frame, just like the Gen1 FZS. But the tabs on the Gen2 are cast as part of the frame, so if you done have enough side protection(like the guy in the video) and drop the bike on the side hard enough those tabs will get snapped clean off (see this video - unlike the steel ones on the Gen1 which would just bend a little if at all. I have smashed 2x Gen1 FZS's and each time the foot-peg brake bent or snapped, the tab welded to the frame was fine in both instances. how ever all modern bikes have cast alloy frames these days 
•    The handle bars look stronger than the ones of the gen1 FZS (which were like chocolate and would just bend into the tank fyi). If hit hard enough and at the right/wrong angle I imagine these will bend also.
What upgrades / modifications should I consider?

Engine / Tuning

Stock ECU remap -
* Make sure tuner knows to keep that the stock diags in-place a
* Ask for the cooling fan cut-in temp-point to be reduced reduced (several owners have reported its only cutting in at over 100-104c)
* make sure the FC at 5k rpm is addressed/removed, this also commonly know as the fuel cut point in the rpm range
* If your going for a full tune you may also want to also get the following items disable in the Ecu - Exhaust valve, O2 sensor & AIS/pair valve - for some of these you will need the appropriate blanking plugs etc - I need to do more research to confirm.
* you have your ignition unification setting set to 3rd gear and above, this give you better advance timing in the lower gears.
* the tuner should look at the secondary throttle butterfly, so either smooth out the dyno curce or give you more responsive throttle in the lower gears      Power commander -       

* If you want to go the extra mile having a PC in-place before you get your ECU re0flash makes the tuners job much easier, asw its a live flash system. This should in theory save you some money - so ask your preferred tuner before you visit/him/her.
* Having a PC means you don't need a physical O2 sensor eliminator, you just unplug the sensor and disable it in the PCHere is a good video that encapsulates most of the above -

•    There are loads of choices out there, but a lot of owners of the Gen1 like to fit a MIVV. But AndymanCam fitted a Speedproducts Cobra SPX, pricey but looks the business.

Suspension / Handling
•    For a start the suspension is firm but harsh and poorly controlled. So new owners will need to set up the suspension for their weight and riding style.

Chain & Sprockets
•    Some owners have complained about the tall gearing, so you have the option of playing around with different front/rear sprocket sizes (17/45 - Stock gearing) to suite your need. Some info for now can be found here

•    The brakes are the same blue spot calipers (with different mount points) as found on the gen FZS. So like the FZS, just replace with braided. However if you have an ABS enabled bike bleeding the brakes after the hose is going to be a right pain in the arse, and you may have to employ the old cable-tie the lever back to the bar trick - see here.

•    Renthal's are popular

Clutch lever
•   If like me you have medium sized hands you may want to install a span-adjustable levers. The FZ1 has the same useless cable-based clutch that the FZS had, which has clutch biting point foibles.

•    They are not foldable like the ones on the FZS, here is mod to fit FZS mirrors to the FZ1 -

AIS removal
•    Like the gen1, the AIS system on the FZ1 can be completely removed and there are kits available for this. But I need to do more research on how this effect the fuel injection system.

Are there any Gen2 specific service items or issues I should be aware of?

Fueling issues
•    A few owners on here don't believe the fueling was that bad for most normal riding. The complaints were more centered around the 'fuel cut off' which occurs after 5000rpm. If you come off the throttle above that rev range the bike completely shuts off the injectors then when you get back on it there is a noticeable delay before the power comes back which is really annoying and frankly quote dangerous mid bend etc. The 2010 on models have much better fueling, but not having test ridden one yet I cant say for sure.

Generator rotor issue on 20062007 models
•    3rd party replacements for the rotor, stator and also the reg/rec can be found  here. I've spoken to the Uk distibutor and on all first time purchases customer get 10% off..!!!

Rear suspension
•    Always inspect the suspension linkages as they are prone to seizing and by now the suspension units themselves will probably be needed a rebuild or refresh, so look for any weeps and check their damping by bouncing the bike up and down.
•    Front forks - tbc
•    EXUP Valve - Like its older sibling, the Gen2 also has an exhaust valve. Research as to what it does compared the older bike and how to maintain it I need to confirm tbc. From what I have read so thus far the valve play a part in the fuelling of the bike, but every 3rd party eend-can removes it completly. It doesn’t help I can’t find the part on Fowlers parts page.

Valve Clearances
•    If you are planning on checking the valve clearances yourself (24,000 mile intervals) a service manual such as those from Haynes & Clymer is always recommended.

Service intervals
•    minor every 4k/1yr, major every 8k/2 yrs, valve clearance every 24k.

Coil sticks & starter solenoid
•    There are reports of ignition sticks (integrated coil & plug cap) failing, but is not uncommon for any motorcycle with these. These can be found on MandP for £35(compared to the £128 for genuine) There have also been reports of the starter solenoid failing, 3rd party version can be found on MotoElectrical for £20.

Changing spark plugs
•    To get to the coil sticks or the plugs you have to unbolt the radiator keeping the hoses attached, this give you clearance you to reach in and pull the coil sticks out and gain access to the plugs.

Ignition Keys
•    The Yamaha immobilizer system requires a red ‘master’ key to create black copies and without this key you are looking at a new ECU and lock set and a massive bill should you lose your keys so always check it is included in the sale.

Electrical connectors
•    Given the age of the bike it is worthwhile going through all of the electrical connector blocks on the bike checking for corrosion and making repairs where necessary. An electrical contact cleaner spray can be used to de-grease and clean both the inside & outside of the blocks, the outside of the blocks should be treated sparingly with a product that will repel water and prevent corrosion such as dielectric grease or ACF50. Particular attention should be given to both the larger connectors below left hand-side subframe where the regulator/rectifier resides.

Tachometer Codes
•    tbc

Oil Level Light
•    tbc

Front Suspension Compression Damping Adjusters
•    tbc   

Fairing Infills & panels
•    tbc

•    Other than this, its basically consumables and crash damage and checking for any warning lights on the dash that might indicate a sensor has packed up.
•    Yamaha changed/updated the immobilizer system from 2009 on.

Notes on imported bikes:
•    TBC

Where Can I Find More Information About the Gen2 Fazer 1000?

•    Our American cousins have some useful resources on their Fz1a Owners site - here
•    If you bought a bike without it you can download the manual - here
•    Review from a 2006 owner here - link

I am considering buying one these, hence creating a faq thread with Moffs help. So will post stuff that's not applicable to the faq here.

Great idea this. No use to me as my fat ass likes the comfort of the couch that is a gen 1. But it’s a great idea none the less..


--- Quote from: mickvp on 25 June 2020, 08:55:53 pm ---Great idea this. No use to me as my fat ass likes the comfort of the couch that is a gen 1. But it’s a great idea none the less..
--- End quote ---
I needed the faq as much for myself as for anyone else and it bugged me that it hadn't been done before now.

And I suffer from the same issue with seats, my sit bones give me a lot of grief. So Im gonna have all kinds of fun doing post purchase seat research. The irony and what made me reconsider the FZ1 again was I have test ridden the following bikes -

* 2016 & 2020 Kawasaki Z1000SX - love this bike but no center stand and hard seat. Also stock rubber on the 2020 was awefull.
* 2020 Kawasaki Versys 1000 - looks fugly, has center stand but seat height to high at 33/34"
* 2020 Suzuki Vstrom 1000 - fugly, less power than the versys, has center stand, but again too tall.
* 2020 Honda VFR800F - lovely bike, but not enough power and too small compared to the FZS.
* 2012 Triumph Sprint GT - has center stand, but that was its only redeeming feature - thing was a cluncky, slow, loud tractor.And all of them had uncomfortable seats. The Versys was the only one that overall got close to the fazer, and the comfy seat on my GSF1250.

And now as a result of doing this thread I now know when a shop for example is trying to sell a 2009 as a 2010 just by the colour of the exhaust tip. Ruling that bike out entirely -

Added another section "Things that will brake in a smash" to highlight the big stuff that will get mullered and/or cause much anguish to your wallet, after seeing a vid of an american owner with a cracked frame tab to which the riders footpeg bracket mounts.


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