Bikes, Hints'n'Tips > FZS600 Fazer

Cam Chain Replacement

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CountFazer:
Hi all,

I am replacing my cam chain on my 1998 FZS600 (~70k km). I have read through the service manual, the haynes manual and some of the forum posts as well as youtube videos. So I have a good idea about what I need to do, though I do have some questions.

* What's a good way to secure the new rivet linked cam chain to the old cam chain while pulling it through?
I'm thinking some string or a zip tie where the rivet should be, though I'm keen to see what other people have done.


* Do I need to replace the cylinder head cover gasket?
I've seen this recommended in the service manual, though have not seen any mention of needing to replace it elsewhere.


* Is it necessary to remove the radiator?
Seen this in the service manual but not in haynes.


* How many rivets are there on the cam chain between the marks on the sprockets?
I will probably end up working this out by lining everything up properly but it would be a good additional check.


* Do you have any tips or hints?Thanks in advance.

Gnasher:

--- Quote from: CountFazer on 08 October 2021, 06:13:01 am ---I am replacing my cam chain on my 1998 FZS600 (~70k km).
--- End quote ---

First why are you changing it at only 43k miles?   They go easily to 70k plus I service bikes with well over 100k on the original chains. If it's being noisy chances are it needs the tensioner resetting.


--- Quote from: CountFazer on 08 October 2021, 06:13:01 am ---What's a good way to secure the new rivet linked cam chain to the old cam chain while pulling it through?

I'm thinking some string or a zip tie where the rivet should be, though I'm keen to see what other people have done.
--- End quote ---

Personally I don't use split link or soft link cam chains.  The former just isn't strong enough and the latter often is either over tight or too loose both will shorten chain life, I've seen DIY replaced chains fail in under 3k.  Fit endless, yes it's a bit more work and expense but it won't fail and last as mentioned 70k plus. 

It you must use a split/soft link, slide the new chain on to the old, thread some thin solid copper wire through the links, in a criss/cross pattern.  Make sure the ends are on the outside, twist off the ends and fold flat, pull the chain through by rotating the crank.         


--- Quote from: CountFazer on 08 October 2021, 06:13:01 am ---Do I need to replace the cylinder head cover gasket?
--- End quote ---

If it's the original chances are it will be brittle or well on it's way to getting there.  Thoroughly check it, it should be very pliable, no cracks, the surfaces should feel like a new O ring.  If not replace.       


--- Quote from: CountFazer on 08 October 2021, 06:13:01 am ---Is it necessary to remove the radiator?
--- End quote ---

No, but it's a faff and will get in the way, my recommendation remove it.


--- Quote from: CountFazer on 08 October 2021, 06:13:01 am ---How many rivets are there on the cam chain between the marks on the sprockets?
I will probably end up working this out by lining everything up properly but it would be a good additional check.
--- End quote ---

Irrelevant, use the correct timing chain, line up all the datum marks.  There is no other adjustment.   


--- Quote from: CountFazer on 08 October 2021, 06:13:01 am ---Do you have any tips or hints?
--- End quote ---

Don't fit split or soft link.

Don't attempt it unless you are confident of your ability, have somewhere undercover, out of the wind to do it and have all the required tools and parts.

Male sure any slack is at the back, if you got any at the front the timing is out and you run the risk of wrecking the motor.   

CountFazer:
Thanks Gnasher for your very detailed response.


--- Quote from: Gnasher on 08 October 2021, 08:54:58 am ---
First why are you changing it at only 43k miles?

--- End quote ---


The cam chain is rattling pretty loud. Here's a video. https://youtu.be/mAQfPnmdCBw
I've checked the CCT and it is at the 9th click of 12 which makes me think the problem is the cam chain.
Funnily enough, I recently got a parts bike (FZS600 1999) with the same mileage and very little cam chain sound. At this point I am unsure which will become the main bike as the parts bike needs work too. But for now I am committed to replacing the cam chain on my project.


--- Quote from: Gnasher on 08 October 2021, 08:54:58 am ---Personally I don't use split link or soft link cam chains.  The former just isn't strong enough and the latter often is either over tight or too loose both will shorten chain life, I've seen DIY replaced chains fail in under 3k.  Fit endless, yes it's a bit more work and expense but it won't fail and last as mentioned 70k plus. It you must use a split/soft link, slide the new chain on to the old, thread some thin solid copper wire through the links, in a criss/cross pattern.  Make sure the ends are on the outside, twist off the ends and fold flat, pull the chain through by rotating the crank. 
--- End quote ---


I've got a soft link chain for the replacement as I'm trying to avoid the work involved in installing an endless chain. Thanks for your warning about compressing the rivet and for the explanation for pulling through the new cam chain.



--- Quote from: Gnasher on 08 October 2021, 08:54:58 am ---

Don't attempt it unless you are confident of your ability, have somewhere undercover, out of the wind to do it and have all the required tools and parts.Male sure any slack is at the back, if you got any at the front the timing is out and you run the risk of wrecking the motor.   


--- End quote ---


I've done a fair bit of research and I'm confident that if I take it slow I can work it out. The main things that I will be focusing on are

* Cam cap removal and installation - ensuring not to bend cam shafts from the forces applied by compressed valve springs.
I think the sequence for this is outlined in the Haynes manual.
* Timing - lining up all datum marks & ensuring there's no slack between crank and exhaust cam gear.
This makes sense because the CCT is between the intake cam gear and the crankshaft.
I'll turn the crank over a few times at the end to ensure timing datum still line up.
* Rivet link installation
* Keeping mated surfaces together

Gnasher:

--- Quote from: CountFazer on 08 October 2021, 09:57:14 am ---
The cam chain is rattling pretty loud. Here's a video. https://youtu.be/mAQfPnmdCBw
--- End quote ---

That noise isn't a knackered cam chain IMHO, just one that needs some slack taking out of it. 

Judging by the condition of your bike, it's one that's been well looked after and not used a great deal.  With that often comes very careful use, too careful and the engine isn't revved as it should be often enough.  ;)  Take the bike out, get it thoroughly warmed up, find a nice long road that's not too busy or a dual carriage or motorway.  Now give the bike some proper revs, I mean red line, in 2, 3& 4 and hold it at 10k for a while, depending on the road you can go into higher gears as the speed will allow you. 

Do the above a good view times, the noise will go possibly straight away if not within a few rides.  Do it every couple months or just rev the bike to at least 10k once a week.  And/or reset the tensioner they get stuck again due to engine not being revved hard enough.

One tooth is a lot of adjustment, the tensioner are on 7 or 8 when new.       

CountFazer:
Thanks Gnasher for your advice. I've taken it into consideration and decided to take the bike out to spread its wings. I just need some new tires as the old ones are 10 yrs old and have dry rot.

I was surprised to learn that the tensions are already at 7 or 8 when new. In a way, this would mean that my cam chain is around 40% worn (if starting at 7) instead of 75% worn (if starting at 1) which I was thinking before. But of course, this assumes cam chain age can be measured by stretch alone, which is an oversimplification.


--- Quote from: Gnasher on 08 October 2021, 11:05:45 am ---Judging by the condition of your bike, it's one that's been well looked after and not used a great deal.

--- End quote ---


I hope you're right. I don't know much about the history other than it hasn't seen much action in the last 10 years. The rest can only be inferred from the things I find while working on, and soon riding, the bike.

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