Bits and bobs > FZS600

Fazer Headlight Mod for mark 1 FZS600

(1/8) > >>

John Silva:
Originally posted by Moffmeister on 31/03/01


For whatever reason the offside light on the Fazer only comes on when it’s on main beam (although it has a H4 dual filament bulb fitted).
This leaves only the nearside (single filament H1 bulb) for dipped beam.  Lighting levels are crap in dipped and it also looks weird with only one light on.
Whilst stopped at some traffic lights recently this bloke standing at the adjacent bus stop hollered over that only one of my lights was working - yeah, its supposed to be like that!

So lets have both lamps on in dipped and see and be seen better.

These instructions are basically those on the FOC-U (Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial) messageboard but with accompanying pictures and my own commentary.

First of all the mod is easy!

What is required:

Tools (ideally have the right tools but you could do it all with a pair of combination pliers at a push)

1 - 8mm and 10mm sockets and suitable driver (T handle ideal)
2 - Side cutters
3 - Long nose and combination pliers
4 - Crimping tool (type dependent upon desired method of joining wires)
5 - Hat pin or similar long thin pointed thing (not absolutely necessary)
6 - Piece of wood about 600mm - 2ft long (something like 50mm x 25mm - "2 x 1")

Materials (dependent on your chosen method - see text)

1 - 1 metre (4 ft) 1mm² PVC insulated copper wire - preferably Black
2 - 8mm female un-insulated crimp terminal (AMP Fastin/Faston Type) Right Angle if possible
3 - Suitable male and female connectors e.g. insulated bullet connectors, or insulated spades - not required if in-line fuse is used.
4 - In-line fuse (with 10 Amp fuse) if desired
5 - Insulation tape and/or small cable ties

Time

It took me about 20 minutes, although it will take longer if you are not familiar with wiring type stuff, or if you are a perfectionist and want it done "right".  I intend to redo it in the fashion which I consider "right" another time but the way I did in as follows is still functional and safe.

STEP 1 - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY

Details
Remove the seat and disconnect the battery.  This will avoid any possible short circuits which at worst could ignite rogue petrol fumes, or at best blow a fuse (usually the one the size you haven't got).

STEP 2 - RAISE THE PETROL TANK

Details
Remove the tank securing bolt, at the front of the tank (8mm socket) and slowly and carefully raise the tank sufficiently to clear the electrical connection box (taking care not to strain the breather tubes) - check for any leaks.  Prop up with a length of wood as shown.

STEP 3 - TURN OFF THE FUEL

Details
For safety turn off the petrol tap at the rear of the tank.

STEP 4 - LOCATE THE BLUE CONNECTOR

Details
This is the connector which has the dip feed from the left hand bar switch via a green wire into the male part of the multipole rectangular connector.  There is no corresponding connection on the female part of the connector. Note this connector may be black on Y2K Fazers.

It is this 'un-used' green wire which will provide the dip feed to the offside lamp which we need to extend to the lamp connector on the offside headlamp.  There are various ways of achieving this.

Although I didn't do it this time, my preferred way would be to obtain a female Fastin-Faston receptacle and use the spare way in the female connector.
And ultimately this is how I will do it (when I can be arsed).

STEP 5 - UNPLUG THE HEADLIGHT CONNECTOR

Details
Details
Unplug the connector from offside headlight.  I found it easier to push this down through the gap at the front of the fairing and bugger about with it there.  Unclip the back of the connector and you will see the two wires and 8mm receptacles (female spade connectors).  I got a pre-wired three pin connector from my local motor factors for a quid but it was not a right angled one and would have meant rewiring the existing wires to look half decent and not a complete bodge job.  So I settled on removing one of the receptacles and using that in the existing headlight connector.

You need to look at the connector to make sure you push in the receptacle (un-insulated female spade) in the right way up (which should be obvious if you look carefully and at the existing receptacles).  The receptacle is pushed in from the back - it may need the leading edge 'tweaking' a bit with the pliers to get in (pliers are useful to push it in).  Assuming you have used a straight receptacle, then you will need to bend it slightly to lead the wire out (it doesn't necessarily have to be bent 90º - just sufficiently to lead the wire out of the connector.  Clip the connector lid back on and plug back into the lamp.

STEP 6 - ROUTING THE WIRE

Details[/img]

Details[/img]

In keeping with my theory of doing it the "right" way I intended to route the wire together with the existing two wires as far as possible.  As this would have meant removing the fairing, basically I couldn't be arsed so did it what I would call the cheap and cheerful way.  Also by looking a bit shit it is more likely to prompt me to do it properly sooner rather than later.

Route the wire back along the main harness run which goes into the fairing using either insulation tape or tie wraps (I used the latter for ease and out of laziness).  Take care not to run the wire where it can be chafed (obvious?).
Route back into the electrical connection box and leave some slack.

STEP 7 - THE FINAL CONNECTION

Details[/img]

Details[/img]

Now for the other end.  It is quite easy to push the male spade (tab) out of the blue connector using something to push in the locking tab.  Look inside the connector and you will see the spade and the retaining tab.  I used a watchmakers screwdriver to push in the retaining tab whilst pulling on the green wire( ah so that's where the hat pin comes in!). The spade connector (tab) can the be cut off and replaced with your choice of mating connector (or in-line fuse holder).

You don't have to remove the green wire like this; you can simply cut if off!

I used insulated spade connectors to connect the two ends (yes I know they are two different wire sizes - smartarse), but my first choice would have been to use the correct Fastin-Faston receptacles and the blue connector intact (even using the same colour wire on the other side) together with an inline fuse (for the just in case MOT bit).

STEP 8 - PUT EVERYTHING BACK AND TRY IT!

Details
Neatly put all the connectors into the back into the black box and refit the lid. Turn fuel back on!  This is in bold because this is one of the typical "put everything back and then have to remove it all again because you forgot to put something back etc" scenarios.  Put the tank back and secure with the bolt.  Re-connect the battery.  Fire her up and rejoice in the abundance of light.


MOT Time?
There seems to be some confusion/uncertainty as to whether the bike will subsequently pass an MOT test with the mod.  Basically I haven't got a clue but will update this page if my cluelessness becomes resolved.

Connectors?   
Where do you get them?  Well I got mine from a local motor factors, it was all he had.  Without doubt you will be able to get the "real McCoy" from somewhere like an auto electricians.  I will update this page if more info is forthcoming. 

Disclaimer   
Obviously there is little chance of you blowing yourself up etc but in these time of "where there's blame there's a claim" and shit like that, not forgetting the parasites that preach it, then just be reminded You do the mod as at your own risk.


2000 Fazer?
Apparently the connector plug in the 2K model is Black

Linking across the headlight connectors?
Yeah it works, but dip and main beam will be on at the same time on the offside lamp (when main beam is on) - apart from that shouldn't be a problem i.e. loading on the electrical circuit will normally be the same as if you did the mod "properly".   Obviously when on main beam you the lighting load will higher (only a potential problem if you live in the middle of nowhere).

Relay?
My arse.....the switch sees the same load when switching on two dipped beams as it does when switching on one dipped and one main beam on std wiring setup. Use a relay if you fancy wasting your time........ There is also a single fuse for the headlight (i.e. dipped and main) and again the load is no different if it is one dip and one full beam or two dipped. Except for a means of isolating the mod, there is no reason whatsoever to use any additional circuit protection end of fekkin story'

Brighter Bulbs?
What about these 30% brighter bulbs, blue vision, etc?
I bought Ring Xenon plus H1 and H4 , £14.24 (inc VAT) pair from JPR Motor Parts Leeds, 0113 2256161.


Finally Did It "Right" (ish)

Details
I eventually (in the process of replacing the fairing) routed the wire with the existing loom as a proper job:

willmckeand:
Hi there, I know this is an old old post but I wanted to ask what the benefit is of doing this mod rather than just having the full beam switch on all the time?

Thanks
Will  :)

DanielT:

--- Quote from: willmckeand on 06 October 2012, 10:37:12 am ---Hi there, I know this is an old old post but I wanted to ask what the benefit is of doing this mod rather than just having the full beam switch on all the time?

Thanks
Will  :)

--- End quote ---


If you have your full (main) beam on, you may be blinding the driver in front of you.  Or oncoming traffic, who may then put their main beams on and blind you.





--- Quote from: John Silva on 06 July 2011, 06:44:09 pm ---Originally posted by Moffmeister on 31/03/01


--- End quote ---



I have just done this mod, took the same sort of time, 20 minutes. I had to drive home the other night along the A27 from Polegate and it was so dark it wasn't funny!  Looking to now upgrade the bulbs too.  Wondering if using H4s on both side, so that main beam is even brighter is possible

Thanks for the effort you went to in posting this guide

Candyman:
Just done this mod.  What a difference  :D  Thanks for taking the time to post the instructions and photo's.


Any problems with MOT?

triker:
Thanks John Silva for the pics etc.
Just done the MOD
Well chuffed....that will stop people saying your bulbs blown in one of your headlights.
Oh yer should also say thanks to James who arrived at Flitwick Yamaha on a silver Fazer 600 2001 model at the same time as me. He had the mod done on his bike. Looked good so got me motivated to get it done.Nice one
 :D
 
 
 

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page