actually this was the cause of the problem in the first place, using one of those short thread mag bolts.
personally 40nm is too much i think, thats what i was trying to emulate by hand ?
Are you saying there's enough room so you can use a torque wrench with with one of these ends on, because if so i will happily buy one right now just for that job alone?
Quote from: darrsi on 19 June 2020, 10:21:17 amAre you saying there's enough room so you can use a torque wrench with with one of these ends on, because if so i will happily buy one right now just for that job alone?Yes if you get the correct spanner, you may need a socket drive converter/reducer depending on what size torque wrench drive and extension bar you use.
possibly darrsi, but theres also a risk you could make it worse too.for me its such a small weep that a once year pump out is as i say a less messy way of changing the oil so im happry to live with it.infact happy to have found this way of being able to oil change at all, otherwise would have had to tackle the exhaust issue !!
I think it should be mentioned that Copper Grease messes with torque settings as well, although using engine oil keeps torque settings very accurate, but it will obviously depend on what job the nut/bolt is doing for this to be taken into consideration.
Quote from: darrsi on 19 June 2020, 10:47:53 amI think it should be mentioned that Copper Grease messes with torque settings as well, although using engine oil keeps torque settings very accurate, but it will obviously depend on what job the nut/bolt is doing for this to be taken into consideration.Not really mate no. As mentioned threads don't provide seals any grease or oil will be either pushed out or sit in the free space in the threads. The only time it's possible is when the bolt is going into a blind hole, but its very unusual as the grease/oil will escape past the threads. That's why you can use thread lock It's why you can get these coated bleed nipples, in an attempt to seal them so you can pump the lever with the nipple open and theoretically not draw air in past the threads. They don't work after the first go, if then I would recommend them.
Like my rear caliper pad pin you mean? I think it's something daft like 10Nm, but i thought i'd do the right thing that day and use the torque wrench, with a tiny dot of Copper Grease on the thread. Won't be doing that again.
I'm guessing it's #8 in the drawing, maybe Gnasher could confirm this? Unfortunately the postage nearly matches the item price, but with a washer you're looking at around £15. https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/600-MOTO/2000/FAZER/FZS600/CRANKCASE/20_2045-2045/B13/0/24057
Quote from: darrsi on 19 June 2020, 11:20:22 amI'm guessing it's #8 in the drawing, maybe Gnasher could confirm this? Unfortunately the postage nearly matches the item price, but with a washer you're looking at around £15. https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/600-MOTO/2000/FAZER/FZS600/CRANKCASE/20_2045-2045/B13/0/24057No mate that's not the drain bolt, that's the oil pump pressure orifice test hole plug. Here No 11 https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4162055/fzs600-fazer-5dm4-1999-070-a/oil-cooler
Quote from: darrsi on 19 June 2020, 11:05:32 amLike my rear caliper pad pin you mean? I think it's something daft like 10Nm, but i thought i'd do the right thing that day and use the torque wrench, with a tiny dot of Copper Grease on the thread. Won't be doing that again. No, can't see why this was a problem. The rear caliper pin threads aren't blind holes, the holes where the pins go through into the other body aren't either. Either the pins are bent, threads knackered due to over tightening, poor servicing or your torque wrench is naff. As with everything you get what you pay for with tools, there're many cheap torque wrenches on the market, plus they need calibrating.
How about drilling through the sump bolt with it off the bike and adding a smaller bolt drain bolt through the middle. Could be done off the bike then just loctite the original one back in? So you end up essentially with a sleeved drain bolt.
Quote from: darrsi on 19 June 2020, 10:47:53 amI think it should be mentioned that Copper Grease messes with torque settings as well, although using engine oil keeps torque settings very accurate, but it will obviously depend on what job the nut/bolt is doing for this to be taken into consideration.Not really mate no. As mentioned threads don't provide seals any grease or oil will be either pushed out or sit in the free space in the threads. The only time it's possible is when the bolt is going into a blind hole, but its very unusual as the grease/oil will escape past the threads.
use a new OE, with a little silicon on the thread.
Quote from: Gnasher on 19 June 2020, 10:03:20 amQuote from: darrsi on 19 June 2020, 09:21:35 amGonna have to agree to disagree with you there Gnasher. That's your choice mate But your way is bad practice and at some point it's going to leak, when it does just pray you've not damaged the mating surface and/or stretched the threads as it will. New OE washer is £2.60 ish last I bought one, or copper £5 for 10. Quote I'm guessing there is some sort of different version of a torque wrench that fits onto this bolt allowing things to be torqued properly but as you can imagine i would reckon that 99% or more of people won't have this gadget available in their tool box.Nope, crows foot spanner I just noticed you can get a couple of washers for about £2.60 on Ebay. That's very weird you should mention a 'crows foot' spanner because i stumbled on them early this morning (not even sure how?) and i was trying to think of a scenario where they would be useful?Are you saying there's enough room so you can use a torque wrench with with one of these ends on, because if so i will happily buy one right now just for that job alone?
Quote from: darrsi on 19 June 2020, 09:21:35 amGonna have to agree to disagree with you there Gnasher. That's your choice mate But your way is bad practice and at some point it's going to leak, when it does just pray you've not damaged the mating surface and/or stretched the threads as it will. New OE washer is £2.60 ish last I bought one, or copper £5 for 10. Quote I'm guessing there is some sort of different version of a torque wrench that fits onto this bolt allowing things to be torqued properly but as you can imagine i would reckon that 99% or more of people won't have this gadget available in their tool box.Nope, crows foot spanner
Gonna have to agree to disagree with you there Gnasher.
I'm guessing there is some sort of different version of a torque wrench that fits onto this bolt allowing things to be torqued properly but as you can imagine i would reckon that 99% or more of people won't have this gadget available in their tool box.
[quote author=slappy link=topic=26267.msg316636#msg316636 date=1592587456Any kind of grease can affect torque values. I work on final assembly of offshore oil and gas trees, we regularly torque in excess off 600 ft lbs and we use a specialist grease on the threads. The torque values are calculated with this grease on as it does differ from a dry thread and at these high values it means the seal, which could have to cope with massive working pressures, will leak and when the tree is sat on the bottom of the ocean that could be catastrophic.Get real fella and in your application these are specially cut threads to take that kind of pressure and are effectively blind holes working under extreme pressure, i.e. 600ftlbs of course grease isn't going to compress This is a bolt on a motorbike
Wind your neck in, And they are not blind holes.