Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: jul1us on 25 August 2023, 06:56:29 pm
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As announced in the Ivan thread, I'm bringing this method called "Power Tweak" here from the German Fazer forum in case anyone here has use for it. The goal is to strengthen the headlight and relieve the ignition switch. Not sure if this has been done here before.
Background by Christian (Schlumpf):
"From the outset, it has surprised me why the Fazer despite double headlights only a relatively modest, average light emitted. Over time, it turned out that the wiring is not the greatest and swallows a lot of "precious" voltage. I finally looked into the matter and found a workable solution. With one or two additional cables, depending on the requirement, the Fazer electrics can be helped on the jumps. I have described the conversion on my website. The "standard" voltage loss at the headlight of about 2.8 volts can be reduced to about 0.6 volts."
Christians (Schlumpf) method can be found here:
https://cvieth-bplaced-net.translate.goog/motorrad_licht.html?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en (https://cvieth-bplaced-net.translate.goog/motorrad_licht.html?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en)
The German forum then found two simpler methods.
"There are 3 variants to improve the light, in all of them the effect occurs that the light becomes better and the ignition lock is relieved from the load current of the light.
- Schlumpf variant ("new" load current line for the light)
- "Power Tweak" a la Chris (ignition lock switches an extra relay, which in turn switches the load current for light, fan, horn, etc.)
- Plus wire from battery (or pre-fuse) to fuse for headlights (I think Chris mentioned this once).
Conclusion regarding the ratio of effort to benefit:
Variant 3 is the least time-consuming and has almost the same effect as variant 1. Power Tweak is in my opinion the best solution, since only slightly more effort is required than with variant 3 and the ignition lock is relieved the most."
So here is the translated guide by fzmoe for variant 3 "power tweak" with a schematic at the bottom:
"The idea came from Chris on the Fazer forum, you can read the idea behind it there.
Parts list:
- 1x relay 30A (changeover contact)
- 1x relay socket
- 4x flat connector sleeves 6,35mm cable min. 4 mm2 or 2x2,5mm2 cable 1,5mm2
Remark:
Since approx. 19 amps could flow at maximum load with this circuit, a cable cross-section of at least 4mm2 is required for the switching circuit. Instead of the 4mm2 cable, you can also use two 2.5mm2 cables connected in parallel, these are more common and almost every screwdriver has them lying around somewhere.
The blue/brown cable to be modified on the Fazer from the ignition lock to the fuse box is also a parallel cable.
Relay pinout:
- 85 - output control current
- 86 - input control current
- 30 - working current battery +
- 87 - working current output to consumer 87a - is not assigned
Steps:- Disconnect battery.
- Remove the fuse box from the holder.
- Remove the 4 fuses (1xlight, 1xfan, 1xignition and 1xhorn, brake light, etc.) from the box and press out the terminals where the blue/brown cable is attached from the top (press in 2 small black plastic noses per terminal).
- Remove the blue/brown cables from the terminals and solder new cables with 2.5mm2 to the terminals instead and press the terminals back into the box. Length of the cables should be about 10- 15cm, depending on where you want the relay to sit later.
- Insulate one of the blue/brown cables. The other one goes to pin 86 of the relay.
- the two new soldered cables from point 4 now both come to pin 87 of the relay.
- battery +: Now we remove the pins with the 2 thick red wires on the main fuse right next to the battery (see Smurf's improvement of the light). Here we solder another cable to each (2.5mm2). The pins are plugged in again. These two newly soldered cables are now led to the relay and both come there together to pin 30.
- connect a wire from pin 85 of the relay to battery minus (ground). I went here to the ground contact, which is usually on the battery. Simply pull out the pin and solder the cable to it, here a 1,5mm2 is sufficient, because less current flows here.
- insert fuse box.
- connect the battery.
Here is the schematic with the modifications:
https://i.imgur.com/MHH3wWP.jpg (https://i.imgur.com/MHH3wWP.jpg)
Cleaned up post and linked in 'Gen1/2 Fazer 1000: Common maintenance & tasks (https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=26649.0)' thread. - bkd
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Diagram suitable for the early models with the lights on/off on the right handle bar.
From 2003 on, the turning on of the lights is controlled by the Ignitor
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Does it make a big difference when installing?
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@jul1us
Cleaned up post and linked in 'Gen1/2 Fazer 1000: Common maintenance & tasks' thread
The other option as its now legal in the UK, is to swap out the headlight bulbs for LED.
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Does it make a big difference when installing?
Probably not, but you would need to check and compare the 2001-2002 and the 2003 -2005 diagrams to be sure as there may be small differances.
Be sure to get a relay with a diode in it and be aware they only work in one direction.
The diagram has a 5 pin relay but a 4 pin one will do as long as it is rated 30amps