I've rebuilt a fair few while doing restorations, I've never used a tension meter. It's not like torquing down a head. or doing up a bolt, there's just too many variables, each will be slightly more or less than the next, within reason. I tighten each spoke down to have showing a couple threads showing, once all done then check how they feel, often you have to tighten until there's one or no thread showing on some or all.What's more important is keeping the hub/rim central, then start to true the wheel, both up/down and left/right or runout, that is all a balancing act. Providing the all the spokes are straight, same length, including the threads, the rim/hub is true, how tight each spoke is really doesn't matter as they won't be far from each other. Remember no more than half a turn on any spoke when tightening/adjusting, and take your time. It really is a by feel/experience job, it's why it cost so much to get them rebuilt. Once it all true, they will need checking after 500 miles or so and then periodically, lack of the latter is what wrecks them long term.
I've never done motorcyle wheels with spokes, but I've had to re-true bicycle wheels a couple of times and I just used a "spoke key" which is a metal disc with different sized slots to turn the adjuster.As for checking the tension, I just put the key resting on the spokes, spun the wheel and listened for the "ting" as it tapped each one. If I heard "ting, ting, ting, tunk, ting", I'd know that one needed a bit more tightening.Obviously, this isn't exactly precise, so, if you prefer, use a torque meter or similar