Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Slimted on 18 October 2011, 05:09:40 pm
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Hi All,
Good to be back on the new look site. Can anyone tell me the best tool for removing spark plugs on my 99 Fazer?
Thanks
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I used a deep socket and short extension on a ratchet, 5/8" was the socket I think, if theres any crap around the plugs blow it out first or it will drop into the pots when you take the plugs out.
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I use the box spanner that comes with the bikes tool kit. About the only thing in the tool kit I've ever used I think.
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I use the box spanner that comes with the bikes tool kit. About the only thing in the tool kit I've ever used I think.
yep same here it so easy with it :lol
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I guess you could go all posh and use a special tool for the job, whats it called now, oh yes it's a plug socket! :lol
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I read on here about needing T handled flexible socket but I tried the one that comes with the tool kit and it was fine for all the plugs.
Don't forget to blow all the dirt and crap out from around the plug before you unscrew it. :)
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So it was a great day to change the plugs. What could possibly go wrong.....
The very first one snapped off at the top of the threaded part. Now what?
Any top tips appreciated.
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Hard luck, that's just what you don't want to happen :( .
You could try a stud extractor, the type with a tapered left hand helix. To hold and turn the extractor you would probably need to use the type of tap wrench with a chuck.
Otherwise I guess you will have to remove the cylinder head to get at it for some delicate drilling.
Good luck.
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Sorry to hear of your troubles.
It really sounds like cylinder head removal is the safest option. If the plug shearing off hasn't already dropped fragments of ceramic insulator down into the pot, drilling to insert the stud extractor certainly will. That stuff won't do the piston, side walls or exhaust valve seating any good.
With the head off winding the remains of the plug out should be fairly easy.
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With the head off you could knock any remaining ceramic out so it's hollow and weld up the hole, as the weld cools it will shrink the thread by a few thou making it looser, weld a nut to the top and away you go, bit of a git having to take the head off but as said before that ceramic is hard as feck and going to do lots of damage to the engine if left in.
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As mentioned I would remove the head as any small bits of ceramic will do a lot of damage,ceramic will cause serious scoring and other damage.
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Some good advice all, thanks. I now have the removed the head and still can't remove the remains of the plug. I really like the idea of a little weld in centre of the plug. I will try that in the morning.
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Good work. But rather than attack it with the welder, I'd give it a squirt of WD40 to penetrate overnight then apply a more gentle heat. Positioned 20cm above a low flame on the cooker for 15 minutes or so to get it hot to the touch, then a careful tap or two with a hammer on a screwdriver with the tip resting against the ground terminal aimed in the clockwise direction should start it moving.
1) Aluminium expands more than steel so having the whole thing hot will loosen the grip of the thread.
2) Best to take it out the way it went in unless the shear was very clean... so from the underside it'll seem like you're tightening it.
May be telling how to suck eggs... if so, apologies. Best of luck which ever method you choose.
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Finally.....removed the sheared off remains. Ended up drilling out as much as I dare and then retapping. It has been a song and dance but in a really weird way quite fun! New head gasket on order. Maybe get it all back together over the weekend.
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Good to hear it came out ok.