Help ignition switch- been quoted circa £1000 today

[huso]

Hi Everyone, this is  my first time on this forum and hoping to get some  good advice. i did a search in the forum but couldn't find a direct answer, so here it goes:


Bike : 2009, FZ6A, 19K miles on the clock


Issue: Ignition switch wouldn't work properly as i turn the key ON, sometimes it lights up the dials on the dash, and all works fine but half of the time i get blank dials on the dash. fault started only 4 weeks back. first i though it was the batteries but engine fires up ok, no issues once the ignition key is on..
i took it to a yamaha service today and the guy fiddled around with the key and problem turns out to be ignition switch as once the key is in and it is not working he ever so slightly moves the key to a biting position to left  and dials are back on, but if you move it slightly from that point dials are dead nothing shown on it and of course wont start.
they quoted me £862 to change all including ECU, + labour cost so going up to nearly £1000! 
I tried the spare key, but  it also didnt solve the issue.


Help:
- Can i still ride my bike as  once it gets started, or will it cut the engine as i am on the bike riding and cause an accident- 
- is there anyone else had similar issue
-  Cost is too high for me , any other fixes recommended ?


thanks
Huso

[AdieR]

Before you do anything else, *make sure* the wiring / connections are clean and tight; if they aren't right, nothing else will be.

If I can find the book I'll find out, but I'm pretty sure you don't need to change the ECU.
Is it bringing up any fault codes?

[AdieR]

OK, according to the Haynes Book of fibs, you DON'T need the ECU.

To test your ignition switch, disconnect it, then on the switch side of the connector (have you a digital multimeter??), you should have continuity between red & brown / black wires, and between brown / black & brown / red wires while in the ON position.

In the OFF position, there should be no continuity anywhere.

In the PARK position, you should have continuity between brown / red & red wires.

(Disconnect your battery before carrying out these tests!).

To remove the ignition switch from the yoke requires drilling two shear-head screws - any competent engineering shop should be able to do this for you for a nominal fee.

If your immobiliser transceiver is faulty (from here, I don't think it is), you merely replace it, and put the system in registration mode with the red key (which is then used to register your black standard use keys).

I think your Yam dealer is having you on.

[huso]

Thanks Adier..
i dont have a multi-meter.
Also, there is no  fault code displayed; it shows everything as normal when works, or nothing.
Guy at the garage thought i wouldnt need to change Ecu either however when he went to check on computer, he then found out all needs changing..perhaps i need to get it look at another garage.


bit scared from the thought that engine would stall as i ride and cause an accident. although i am not sure this fault would cause this ?

i will check the wiring /connections again.
Huso

[AdieR]

Halfords or a decent motor factors / tool store should have a meter / tester, without being overboard on price; they make finding electrical faults far less of a headache.

Don't know your location, maybe someone on here will offer a hand testing the system for you if you're local to them?

[dazza]

[

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6 Photos

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