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Advice for removal of scratches on headlamp lens please!
Dave48:
I have restricted access down a narrow path to get my bike in and out and recently caught the headlamp lens on a rough cast concrete post.
The bike is a Tracer 700 and I assume the lens is made of some type of plastic. Tried polishing out scratches with Farecla polishing com pound but this had little effect as scratches are quite deep. Hopefully this won't be an MOT issue?
Any ideas/suggestions welcome. (I have since "bubblewrapped" offending post).
Gnasher:
It's the same process as for cars, just bikes have smaller lenses. Varying grades of wet/dry, followed by the same but polish.
A deep scratch depending on it's depth may be impossible to polish out, as the lens is only so thick. It's also in most cases easier to remove the headlight unit from the bike/firing etc.
b1k3rdude:
--- Quote from: Gnasher on 13 September 2021, 12:14:10 pm ---
* It's the same process as for cars, just bikes have smaller lenses. Varying grades of wet/dry, followed by the same but polish.
* A deep scratch depending on it's depth may be impossible to polish out, as the lens is only so thick. It's also in most cases easier to remove the headlight unit from the bike/faring etc.
--- End quote ---
* The only issue with this is motorcycle headlight lense come with an anti-scratch coating, this method will remove that. So evertytime you clean your bike it would put micro/small scratches back.
* Depnding on how bad andf where it is you might be able to hide it with lenses protection film. Your other option is as Gnasher hinted at is just to replace the unit and then sell your scratched one on etc.Got a picture of the damage..?
Gnasher:
--- Quote from: b1k3rdude on 14 September 2021, 07:38:02 pm ---The only issue with this is motorcycle headlight lense come with an anti-scratch coating, this method will remove that. So evertytime you clean your bike it would put micro/small scratches back.
--- End quote ---
They are exactly the same.
I should have explained it better, you buy a kit, in the kit you get 3 grades of wet/dry paper/disc and polish, you also get a lacquer often in the form a wipe, which is applied last. It's this lacquer that provides the anti scratch and UV protection. It's the same lacquer that eventually yellows and goes opaque.
b1k3rdude:
*
--- Quote from: Gnasher on 14 September 2021, 10:04:18 pm ---[/q]
--- End quote ---
They are exactly the same.
I should have explained it better, you buy a kit, in the kit you get 3 grades of wet/dry paper/disc and polish, you also get a lacquer often in the form a wipe, which is applied last. It's this lacquer that provides the anti scratch and UV protection. It's the same lacquer that eventually yellows and goes opaque.
Ah yes I forgot about that, I used a one of this kits for a mates car and the lacquer stayed clear for about 6 months.
So @Dave48, you could use the above kit as Gnasher suggested but then instead of using the final wipe, do a proper lacquer clear coat from a spray can -
* just take your time, follow the instructions on the tin,
* spray in lots of thin layers (you do not want any runs) and after final coat give the lacquer several days to cure fully hard.
* then get 2000/3000 grit so to flat it and remove any imperfections
* then buff it with polishing compound to a gloss finish.@Gnasher I assume my suggestion above should last for years if done right?
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