Guys I'm right there in the danger zone.


After taking everything to bits (first time I ever took some cams off!) and successfully pulling the new chain through using the old one, I'm at the last hurdle before the re-build.


After reading previous threads and watching some videos whilst I was being paid to do my normal job, I ended up purchasing this fine chain breaker. It's done well so far until now when I have to put the rivet link in. It's as though it doesn't have the correct fitting to rivet over the new pins. Basically it's too big and all the suitable parts have grooves or holes in the wrong places which means too much pressure is applied to the adjacent links and they go stiff.


My question is this, does the DID chain rivet link NEED to be rivetted/peened over after getting it through the link? It looks kind of secure but I'd like some second opinions. Maybe there is another technique to rivet these links together?


Cheers

I'm also in the market for some new inlet rubbers. I found some real cheap ones from China on eBay for £15 delivered. I looked again recently and they've gone up to £20. They haven't arrived yet and I'm fully prepared for them to be junk but hey, maybe I'll get lucky.

With regards to the spotless sprocket area, at work I basically have access to an unlimited supply of solvents (so long as I take it during a nightshift  ). I scraped out all the gunk and then used what we call Exxsol in an old hand pump spray bottle, with a large piece of cardboard under the bike to catch all the run off. I did the whole chain with it then put some lube on to stop things going rusty while the bike is laid up for a few weeks.


Any advice on my Cam chain question above?!?!?

I spent a long time cleaning all the gunk out, and there was a lot. I gave the chain a real good scrub as well. Unfortunately when re installing the swing arm chain protector I snapped the bolt off. Shouldn't be too difficult to replace.


I still have to look at the cam chain tensioner which was the reason I laid the bike up in the first place.

Great thread and glad you got it fixed mate. I myself am also fairly new to Fazers and one of the things I liked about them was the help and community available on this site.


A word of advice (As I have to take my carbs off again cos I didn't do this) do your best to bench sync the carbs before you put them back on. This will help to balance them later and also familiarize yourself with the location of the balancing screws so it's less of a fiddle.

Jaywas I love your seat! and the rest of the bike it's attached to of course. Where did you get it done? I've seen this guy on eBay who does a 10 day turnaround on the original seat that you send him. It looks like he would do a good job but the finished product takes away the possibility of a pillion. Yours looks like a great compromise so......... where can I get one?

OK guys, if I can ask some advice again. I've been having another go and I'm stumped again. Made a vid to show my problems:

To re-iterate the video: I have the carbs balanced about as well as I can hope/get with the vaccuum gauges I have. The idle screw is now basically redundant. The only way I can change the idle speed is by turning the centre carb balancing screw, just a quarter of a turn changes about 1000 revs and doesn't affect the balance at all. Am I doing something wrong here? Shall I just put it back together and forget about it?


Thanks for any help

Hey Ed, how's the build going? Out of interest how did you diagnose ring wear?

And I have also read from some old posts that locating the plastic valves at the engine side, as opposed to 10cm off the gauges as I have them now, will help greatly in getting a more accurate reading.

I posted a topic a few weeks ago and received some sage advice from you foccers. New fuel and air filters, carbs out and completely overhauled, checked my valve clearences, new plugs and caps, cooling system drained, flushed and re-filled. Got the bike back together, pressed the switch and she fired up again, no more carb overflow and firing on all cylinders.


The last job was to balance the carbs, partly because I have never done it before and partly because of a kind of ticking/ clanging sound at the top of the engine on the left side which gets better as the bike reaches temperature. After reading around a bit it would seem carb balancing could help. I read through pointer2null's post on the subject to prepare myself.


Here is a short vid of my carbs before I adjusted anything: [size=78%] [/size]


Now this is where the problems started. Rather than buying the carb tune like a sensible person I bought a cheap 4 gauge vaccuum gauge thing off amazon. To reduce needle flutter it has little plastic valves that you screw in and out on the plastic tubes connected to the carbs. The problem is that half a turn on these seems to change the readout quite significantly and I can't be sure I'm getting an accurate reading. I got 3 + 4 carbs balanced, kind of, and then I fiddled around for ages with the centre screw but all it seemed to do was increase the revs with the needles barely moving up or down.


To reduce the revs back to idle I started to also play with the idle screw. Eventually this proved futile as it seems the idle screw had no effect anymore on the revs (could it have come detached or something at the carb end?) while the revs sit at 3000 and I can't get them down anymore. I was spinning and spînning the idle screw and it had no effect. Dejected, with a wife who I had promised this would only take 20 minutes and a toddler crying for his absent father I turned off the ignition, put the cover back on and hung my head in shame as I walked back into the house.


Should have just bought the carbtune.

Thanks for all the tips guys. I didn't realise wet gunk could build up around the plugs so that is a top tip. Life is getting in the way with a visit to the in-laws in Spain but I've used the time constructively to order new plugs and those great NGK caps suggested.

Total spend is <€30 right now. I'll get some carb cleaning fluid from a local guy and get to work. If she runs good as new for that price I'll be more than pleased.

Hi guys


Been lurking as a guest for a while but as I'm about to take the bike to bits I thought I would ask some advice to make sure I'm on the right track:


Backstory:
English guy living in Belgium, passed my test about a year ago and bought a fabulous 2000 Fazer with 42000 km on the clock for what I thought was a great price. Rode it to the Ardennes, rode it to work, rode it every time I could, it started up great every time and had me smiling from ear to ear. A big group of us planned a longer trip to the Alps so I prepped the bike with new tyres and a small service (oil change and once over from a local guy).


On the trip everything was fine until about the third day when we were at the base of the Alps. I had been putting the cover on the bike at night but regrettably I didn't do it this time as it was such good weather when we went to bed, it chucked it down all night. Went to start the bike in the morning and it was not raring to go like normal. No low end power, revving the engine just to keep it going, petrol smell from the exhaust. I adjusted the idle screw so it would run and made my way, albeit cautiously, up the alps in the continuing rain and heavy traffic. It was horrible bunny hopping round the hairpins. After about 3pm it got warmer and sunnier, I started to notice she was running a bit better. After stopping for fuel I hit the start button and it sprang to life like I was used to! Self healing bike!

On the trip back it rained again and all the old problems came back. What a bike though; it still got me home. It still has the same problems after sitting on the drive under cover for a few days, weather has been sunny with intermittent heavy showers. It will run if I turn it over for a good 10 seconds and give some gas but it doesn't want to keep running.

I suspect it is the coils as the exhaust for cylinders 1 and 4 get hot but 2 and 3 don't. I've been reading that 2 and 3 are on one coil whilst 1 and 4 are on the other. I also suspect the carbs need cleaning as petrol pours out of one of the overflow pipes when it is running. If the pilot jets are blocked this would explain the cold exhausts and bunny hopping at low revs. I have been reading pointer2null's post (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0) about carb balancing

Jobs:
Remove tank to get at it
Check coils: Can I just swap the HT leads from 1 to 2 and 3 to 4 to test them or will they not fire at the right time?
New spark plugs all round
Check compression
Adjust valve clearences
Remove carbs and give thorough clean
Balance carbs
Replace the rubbers: I originally thought this might be the problem as they are all cracked and split
...

Anything else I might have missed let me know