Date: 16-06-21  Time: 19:15 pm

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Messages - MightyClown

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Apologies fro the cross post.,13302.0.html

I'll bung it on FleaBay if there are no takers.

Thank you.

A genuine Yamaha luggage rack for a Fazer 1000 (FZS1000).  These are fairly rare items as not many seemed to have been sold.  It's in excellent condition and come with the fitting brackets,  just reuse the bolts that hold the pillion grab rails on,  and you'll have this fitted in 5 minutes.

£40 + £10 postage. 

Most racks for sale are the Renntec luggage rack but the official yamaha one is much nicer looking.  I recently sold my Fazer 1000 and am now selling off a few of the accessories i had fitted.
If you require more information please get in touch.  Postage is £10 as this is the fee from Royal Mail's website for a 2kg medium parcel to be sent 1st class.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Rattle buzz noise ?
« on: 29 August 2013, 03:35:22 pm »

On my bike it's the Choke Bar that that sits across the carbs and the choke cable pulls to slide the choke into position.   This rattles at around that rev and gives a metallic (annoying) rattle.

You'll probably find lots of people will chip in with rattles and buzzes - i'd advise wearing earplugs and voila ! the problem is cured.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Fuel gauge flickering
« on: 01 June 2013, 02:27:36 pm »

Ok, but it's the engine that's wet with oil can this come from the gear selector ?

Yes - the engine oil also lubricates your gear box and clutch so if that gasket is weeping you'll get engine oil there.   

here's my post on replacing the gasket from a few years ago,  you might not have this issue but it is a common one for the fazer.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Fuel gauge flickering
« on: 31 May 2013, 02:48:06 pm »
There is a gasket that tends to fail, it holds the gear selector cover.  The replacement gasket is metal as the bikes were fitted with a rubber / paper type gasket originally.   
I had a similer sounding leak a few years ago and if you remove the sprocket cover, clean the area and then run the bike you should see where the weep of oil is coming from.
If it is that cover it's an easy job to do as removing the cover doesn't leak oil so you don't need to drain / replace oil.   It's just a faff take off the gear selector linkage etc. #


i don't think dropping the forks through the yokes by 5mm or so is altering the preload range.  The preload isn't connected to this.


Here's the preload adjusters wound out to maximum on my bike,  the right hand side is identical to the left hand side (photo is of left hand side).
Looking at the manual i was expecting to see 8 rings of adjuster lines as it states the preload goes from 1 to 8 with 4 being the default.   I've got a range of 3.5 "segments".

As i didn't buy the bike from new,  have i got the original preload adjuster (2003 model bike) ?  If it did have a range of 8 i can't see how you'd use the full range as the adjuster would hit the handlebar.

I've changed the fork oil in the past and i think i have the original springs as they are dual rate spring (you can clearly see the different windings on the spring).

Another questions is static sag.  With the preload on mimimum (fully wound out) i get 19mm of static sag and with me sitting on the bike i get 27mm of sag.  I would have expected some more sag with minimum preload.

This makes me think either the preload unwinds more, or i have non-standard springs / preload adjuster items.
Does anyone have their own suspension measurements they can share ?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Fitting a box to a FZS1000
« on: 15 May 2013, 12:36:24 am »
I fitted a monolock top box to a Renntec rack.  It's been 2 years of daily use and no problems.  I did cut (hacksaw) off the grab rail from the renntec rack to give me a better purchase and to let me mount the plate further back.  This setup runs well and as the renntec rack is held onto the fazer with two bolts per side it spreads the load and is a fairly robust solution.
I posted some photos of this setup a while back.  I'll try and find the post.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: intermitent exup fault,any ideas?
« on: 29 April 2013, 10:31:45 pm »
who are you calling soft !


Was it possible that you had been experiencing the bikes performance with the exup in a seized closed position and after attending to it has remained in seized in an open position......... ?  :D

I experienced the performance with the exup in a removed position - we could call that open.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Small load carrying problem
« on: 28 April 2013, 07:27:18 am »

I do hear the theme tune to Wallace and Grommit when i see that ...

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: intermitent exup fault,any ideas?
« on: 28 April 2013, 07:23:48 am »

with a perfect engine we would have fully variable intake trumpet length, cylinder compression, intake valve timing, exhaust valve timing and exhaust length.   An engine is a mechanical pump really and as we can't adjust many of those attributes the engineers have to optimise for a specific operating characteristic.   

What we can do is alter some of those parameters though ,  like honda with opening a second set of intake vales (vtech) , benelli with the intake trumpet change (lifts the 'cone' of the top) and putting valves in the exhaust to alter the back pressure.

I do look forward to the day when we have pneumatic valves, forced induction (turbos will return!) and variable exhaust capability to give us a motor able to operate at it's most efficient capability over a wide rev range.

Right now bikes are built as leisure devices and the requirements for fuel economy are secondary to power and basic marketing requirements.  In 20 years i think we'll be riding smaller (400cc?) engines yet generating more power and we'll go fully automatic,  we'll have a gear shifter and clutch - just they won't physically do anything as the computer will control the gear control as i think we might have more gears to allow the engine to remain in a specific rev range for efficiency requirements.

Keep the Exup.   

my exup valve had been broken for a few years.   One of the bolts for the cover had snapped and i couldn't drill it out.   So with two bolts holding on the cover / housing it didn't go on flush so pinched the valve off centre and jammed it. 

Anyway,  end result was the valve wouldn't rotate so i just removed it.   I took the exhaust off to paint the engine and tidy up the bike as i've done 30,000 miles now.  With the bolt removed and a helicoil fitted at a local engineering shop i could refit the valve.

The result - OMFG  :eek [size=78%]- [/size]i could not believe the effect, it was like a new engine was fitted.   I thought there would be a minor improvement and had forgotten what the bike was like with the exup working.   

I'd always keep a *working* valve - also i've been Ivanised (by the Mike incidentally)

[ although i will be posting a question about valve operation as it doesn't seem to be resetting to the fully closed position - but the performance is night and day ]

For Sale & Wanted / Re: Breaking fzs 1000
« on: 28 April 2013, 06:56:09 am »

Bracket received,  quick-ish service.


Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Small load carrying problem
« on: 23 April 2013, 07:19:57 pm »

And some mocked devilisam on his adventures.    Yes,  it looks a bit of a dogs dinner but think of it as a prototype and if a second version was a little  neater,  painted up it could look good. 

Lets salute the vision and ingenuity.   

For Sale & Wanted / Re: Breaking fzs 1000
« on: 14 April 2013, 10:18:35 pm »

Do you have the lower bracket for the radiator,  it's the small metal strut that goes from the engine to the bottom of the radiator.   

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Fazer Parade - What you got
« on: 14 April 2013, 09:13:09 pm »


Your bike is looking really smart.  The black forks blend nicely,  the single swing arm conversion is sublime and the wheels are very nice.  All in it's a cracking job.   

I was never really a fan of the "deep seats" but it looks good on the bike in those photos.


Exup Bolts:

6 x A2_Washer_FormB_M6
3 x A2_ScrewBolt_SHCap_M6_8
3 x A2_ScrewBolt_SHCap_M6_10

Order from people like:

While your at it change over some of the other rotting bolts on the bike ... although it can become an expensive obsession ...

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Forks - K-Tech or R1
« on: 07 April 2013, 08:16:41 am »

Thanks for the feedback,   i've gone odwn the lighter fork oil route and an still not pleased with the results.  Again this could be due to my over critical stance on the issue now.   

I had the rear shock re-sprung / serviced a while back and this was great as it stopped the squatting under acceleration and gave the bike a new feel but i can see a new rear shock going on at some point.

The R1 forks are getting a lot of love but is this just because you are effectively dropping the forks and putting more weight over the front ?   I've played with dropping the forks around and it obviously quickens the steering.   

Mike - thanks for your comments as i thought you have been through both setups in the past.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Forks - K-Tech or R1
« on: 06 April 2013, 08:08:01 am »

Hello Everyone,

I've got he chance to spend some money on the suspension, which is the one area of the bike that does annoy me.  I'm fed up with the hard front suspension "kicking" off small bumps and ripples.   It makes the bike tiring on a long journey and now it annoys me i find myself focussing on the front suspension aspect and probably being overly critical of it.

I've even thought about selling the bike but as many others find, it's difficult to find something else that offers such a versatile replacement.   However I am attracted back to V-Twins.

Anyway,   a K-Tech fork upgrade is £500 and has got very favourable comments from fellow forumites like Pitternator but many have fitted R1 forks also.    I'm not swayed by the look of the USD forks but am seeking the best improvement to the ride quality,  can i canvas opinion for those who've gone down the R1 fork route for the improvement in ride quality.  Ideally someone whose had both options fitted in the past,  i think Mike G may have been down that route.

I'm happy to spend the £500 on the fork upgrade, but wouldn't want to if the R1 forks are getting great thumbs up as i think it is a cheaper route.

what would you do ?


Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Refitting Exhaust - advice
« on: 02 April 2013, 09:50:22 pm »

A lad on EBay is selling fazer 1000 exhaust studs and nuts ,  full set of 8 is ~ £15 inc. delivery.    Could probably get them cheaper somewhere else,  but the ebay guy is a better option than the £47 from the dealer.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Refitting Exhaust - advice
« on: 02 April 2013, 12:36:55 pm »

I've just been quoted £47 for studs and nuts by the dealer  :'(

To be fair he was embarrassed to say the price.

Solorider kindly gave me the part number for studs from a Vauxhall dealer,  but does anyone know the stud and nut sizes ,  i think the nut will be a flanged M10 ,   anyone know for sure ?

i.e. if i knew it is a M8 x 40mm i could order somthing like this:

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Refitting Exhaust - advice
« on: 26 March 2013, 09:11:41 pm »

Do you remember the sizings ?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Refitting Exhaust - advice
« on: 25 March 2013, 08:58:01 pm »

I've had to remove the exhaust to drill and tap some broken exup cover bolts (i think many of us have been there with that issue) and looking at refitting the exhaust i want to know what i need to order.

I see from the parts fiche below i need:

4 x 4FM-14613-00-00 Exhaust Gasket
8 x 90179-08655-00 Nut
8 x 95617-08625-00 Studs

But ... i think i want to order some new clamps that are on the exhasut pipe as the old one are fairly corroded but they aren't listed as a seperate part.   I'm also not sure if they can even be removed from the headers unless i can "tap" off the top of the header.  The parts aren't shown as possible to disasemble,  but it doesn't seem right refitting the headers with the old "rings" .

Are they removable ? (and so could be replaced)

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: charging problem
« on: 24 March 2013, 01:37:30 pm »

I had a similar issue and wrote up the result here:,4820.msg41194.html#msg41194

As others have said make a range of measurements at different revs,  also remember that battery voltages are affected by the cold weather so you will see lower voltages in the winter.   The workshop manual voltages are for 20 degrees ambient temperature.

Our bikes are getting old now.

If the thought of adding wires is a little off putting,  then it would be well worth while to clean up the wiring connector blocks.

If you measure the voltage at the Regulator / Rectifier and you are getting a nice 13 - 14V then you know there is a drop due to the wiring.

Hope this helps !

( BTW:  I've not had a single battery issue since i made the mod, and i use the bike all year round (with heated grips and waistcoat in the winter) and i do quite short journeys ~5 miles to work, so not a great run to charge up the battery)

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