Date: 24-07-21  Time: 16:01 pm

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Topics - Andrew

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1
Your Suggestions and How you can help / HOT POOP WIKI
« on: 24 July 2019, 12:27:49 pm »
Bit of an odd one but something i've just noticed after returning.


WHERES THE HOT POOP?!


Many moons ago when we transfered over from the yuku page I managed the wiki page, I've been away for several years due to life and now upon coming back theres no such thing :rollin


IMO it was a great portal for info and was very useful as a one stop shop.


Anyone shed some light on it?




error being received:


Quote
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2
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Exup again 🧐
« on: 11 August 2018, 08:02:28 pm »
Hi guys, long time since I’ve been in here.. not had the bike on the road in just under 2 years! 😶. Done all the usual returning to road maintenance, all mot’d etc then remembered the exup! No bother I thought as it was greased not long before I parked it up. I’ve got 1 sheared bolt to
Drill/tap and also noticed one of the exup cables was frayed quite badly, so gunna replace both so the bikes 100%. 

So, after that long uninteresting speech, any recommendations for exup cables? There’s some on wemoto for reasonable money, are there any other options out there? Cheers!☺️

3
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Rear brake
« on: 22 February 2014, 01:49:55 pm »
Hi all, cleaning out my rear brake and came across these, first time cleaning it but I had a thou caliper on my 6 and don't recall seeing them. Anyone know what they are and their purpose? Cheers :)

4
For Sale & Wanted / Thou Link pipe
« on: 12 January 2014, 01:32:08 am »
Hi all, looking for a Thou link pipe if anyone's got one lying about. Also in need of 1 bolt for the handlebar clamps too. Cheers  :)

5
For Sale & Wanted / MK1 FZS600 Bits n Pieces!
« on: 02 February 2013, 04:05:53 pm »
Hi all, unfortunely now both fazers are gone and I have a few bits to go!
Would rather collection from Glasgow/Paisley area but can post if required.
Any pics required let me know, Cheers.



Bagster baxlux tank cover in black.  Good condition however one locking clip has broken, wasnt a problem for me I just stick a pin in it. You may be able to get a replacement from bagster.

33bhp (25kW) Genuine Yamaha Restrictor kit. 4x Springs, 4x Washers and 4x carb needles. This kit gives a better power delivery throughout the revs than other cheaper washer only kits. Comes with some documentation in German + English fitting instructions.



1x Standard rear light.

1x LED rear light.

Set of Standard bar ends + screws, few wee marks but otherwise great.

Set of fork caps (Non Preload)

Rear plastics, ideal if you're are smashed. Need repainting. One side gold, back and other side silver.

Also have a few unsure of how many carb top screws part # 4km-14216-00.

Any other info and for pics just let me know.
Cheers! :)

6
For Sale & Wanted / Some MK1 bits n pieces
« on: 15 July 2012, 05:56:25 pm »
Hi all, got a few things to clear out:

Full rear plastics (may sell separatly) lhs is silver, rhs gold and the centre is the later more blueish silver £35 + postage

33bhp (25kw) genuine yamaha restrictor. 4x springs needles and valve restrictor plates. Also comes with fitting instructions and german paperwork. £35 +£5 postage

5x carb top screws part no. 4km-14216-00 £10 posted. Was £21.50 for 8 from mr yamaha.

Rear brake disk, never put on my bike think its only covered a few thou, no lips. £30 + postage.

Fork caps pre preload, £5 + postage.

May also have for sale LED rear brake light, thou rear caliper with used pads, black baglux tank cover and maybe just maybe depending on interest a slightly damaged but fully functioning 400 headlight unit. :evil

The bike also may pop up for sale, around the £1000 mark... All items can be picked up/delivered locally paisley/glasgow area.

Cheers  ;)


7
For Sale & Wanted / FZS600 Parts Wanted
« on: 09 May 2012, 07:50:35 pm »
Hi all, I'm after:

Front Fairing
RHS Kidney shaped engine cover
LHS Yamaha Engine cover
Mirrors (LHS but would buy a pair if offered)
2x LHS Cam covers
Rear plastics, preferably the later shape with the bigger grab rail holes

Cheers.

8
FZS600 Fazer / No front brake?
« on: 26 February 2012, 09:15:28 pm »
Going to work the other day about 60mph and suddenly the bike started struggling to climb the revs, thought it might have been a fueling issue but then the front wriggled a bit so I pulled off the mway and realised I had no front braking power :eek They were working up to this point as normal and noticed nothing irregular. The lines were changed to Hel braided lines in Jan and new pads were also fitted too. Anyone got any ideas they can throw my way? Had a look over them and saw no leaks or anything so I assume its master cylinder related? Cheers.

9
For Sale & Wanted / MK1 Front Master cylinder wanted
« on: 30 October 2011, 06:59:37 am »
The front light switch screw has sheered of, so im after another master cylinder. Cheers.

10
Messages for Users / Farjo
« on: 05 January 2011, 08:35:31 pm »
On the wiki, i've left some Attn notes on the main page, basicly on the hot poop on foc-u the headings with the Attn's are just links to the main sections about it. What do you want done about those?

11
FZS600 / How to Balance your carbs
« on: 03 January 2011, 07:08:23 pm »
Originally posted by pointer2null

The following instructions relate to a MK1 1998 Fazer, other models may be slightly different but the principle is the same.

 
 This is a guide, if you break it, burn it, scratch it, blow up your garage/bike/cat or do yourself any injury then that's your problem!
 
 Some of the tools needed:
  • Long Philips or pozidrive screw driver (to adjust the carbs)
  • 8mm socket (to remove the tank)
  • 10mm socket
  • 5mm Allen key (to remove the tank)
  • Security torx driver to fit the TPS
  • Pair of pliers (to remove the clips on the various pipes etc)
  • Small torch (not essential but damn useful)
  • Carb balancer (I'm using a Morgan)
  • Couple of rags

 The Morgan Carbtune - cost about £50 and well worth it.
 
 You can get them here www.carbtune.com
 
 First of all two notes on safety:
 
 You will need to disconnect and reconnect the fuel tank, petrol is highly flammable and the vapour is explosive in the right conditions. The vapour is heavier than air and can easily collect in an enclosed space. Do not smoke and be very careful to ventilate the area.
 
 You will need to run the engine during the procedure and exhaust fumes are highly toxic. Carbon Monoxide from exhaust fumes is a colourless odourless gas and breathing it will quickly lead to unconsciousness and death. Make sure you work in a well ventilated area or outside. If you are working in a garage you need to take special precautions to prevent a build up of toxic gasses
.
 
 I have an exhaust extraction system in my garage:
 
 
 
 Before starting this ensure that the tick over is set correctly, the air filter is clean, the spark plugs are clean and have the correct gap.
 
 Strictly speaking you should also check your valve clearances, but that is a big job. When I do it myself I will make another HOWTO and post it here.
 
 1) put the bike on it's centre stand and make sure it is stable and not going to fall over.
 2) Next we need to check the setting of the throttle position sensor (TPS)
 3) Switch on the ignition and disconnect the TPS plug, then reconnect it. This puts it into setup mode. The rev counter will now display 0RPM, 5000RPM or 10000 RPM.
 
 
 
 4) If it is showing 0 or 10000 loosen the two security torx screw slightly - just enough so that you can move the TPS housing, but no so much it moves on it's own.
 
 
 
 5) Twist the TPS housing so that the rev counter reads 5000
 6) Tighten the TPS torx screws taking care not to disturb the unit. Switch the ignition off.
 7) Remove the seat
 8)Using the 8mm socket remove the small bolt at the front of the tank just behind the handlebars.
 
 
 
 9) Using the 5mm Allen key loosen the Allen bold at the bottom of the tank.
 10) You can now partially lift the front of the tank, the rear bolt will act like a hinge.
 11) Underneath you will see 3 rubber pipes connected to the tank, a wire and the fuel tap. Two of the pipes are breather tubes and the other largest one is the fuel pipe. The wire is the fuel gauge sensor connection.
 
 
 
 12) Turn the fuel tap to the OFF position.
 13) Using the pliers remove the clips on the two small pipes - the breather tubes, then pull the tubes off the tank itself. Next the fuel pipe - it is a good idea to place a piece of rag under it as there is always a bit of fuel in the pipe that will run out.
 14) You can lift the tank a bit more and disconnect the fuel gauge wire.
 
 
 
 15) Lower the tank and completely remove the Allen bolt from the bottom. The tank can now be lifted off and put somewhere safe.
 16) Next you need to displace the bar that holds the coils and the fuel pump to allow you access to the carb adjustment screws. Remove the two 10mm bolts on either side of the bar and move it back as far as it will go.
 
 
 
 17) Replace the seat
 18) You can now place the tank on the seat back to front - this will allow you to reconnect the fuel line.
 
 
 
 Turn the fuel tap on.
 
 
 
 19) Remove the vacuum port covers on each of the carbs. Numbers two and three are tricky as there isn't much space.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 20) Connect your Carbtune or other vacuum gauge system to the vacuum ports. (If you only have a two way unit, just connect cylinders 1 & 2 first. Then you can repeat the process with 3 & 4 then finally 1 & 4 - remember to put the vacuum port covers on the cylinders you are not measuring!)
 
 
 
 You should now have the Carbtune connected, the fuel tank on the seat and connected all ready to go.
 
 21) Start the bike. Allow it to run for a few minutes to warm the engine. When it will tick over normally we are ready to start.
 
 The four carbs on the bike are linked via a shaft. This shaft has three adjustment screws on it. The one on the left side of the bike adjusts carb 1 relative to carb 2. The screw on the right hand side adjusts carb 3 relative to carb 4. The centre screw adjusts carbs 1 & 2 relative to 3 & 4.
 
 This is where the torch comes in handy - they are not easy to see (you'll find the right hand (as sat on the bike) screw the worst).
 
 Diagram as seen from front of bike
 
 
 
 
 
 
 This is an out of balance reading, yours maybe better or worse.
 
 
 
 
 22) Start by making a small adjustment to the left hand screw. After each small adjustment, remove the screwdriver and blip the throttle a few times. You will have to repeat this process a number of time until the vacuum on carbs 1 & 2 reads the same.
 23) When carbs 1 & 2 are balanced, repeat the process with carbs 3 & 4 using the right hand adjustment screw.
 24) When 3 & 4 are balanced use the centre screw to balance 1 & 2 with 3 & 4.
 
 Don't be surprised if you have to repeat steps 22 to 24 several times.
 
 When you are done the Carbtune should look like this.
 
 
 
 Tip: sometimes the carbtune can stick a bit - taping it will allow the indicator rods to settle.
 
 The maximum difference you are allowed is 10mmHG (about 2 1/2 lines on the Morgan, but you can get it much better than that).
 
 When you are happy with the balance, switch of the engine and the fuel tap.
 
 25) Disconnect the Carbtune and replace the vacuum port covers.
 26) Putting everything back is a reversal of the process you followed taking it all of.
 27) Repeat steps 3 to 6 to reset the TPS.
 
 Two things to REMEMBER TO DO:
 
 1) Turn the fuel tap on after refitting the fuel pipe
 2) Make sure the breather hoses are routed correctly and not crushed or kinked under the tank.

Video:
motorcycle carburetor balancing- Carbtune



12
The Laboratory ! / If I make a thread here...
« on: 01 January 2011, 10:57:59 pm »
Will it appear on the front page?

I hope not..

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