Chain needs replacing, it's only done 3000 miles

[xlewisbdx]

So my chain has only done 3000miles and needs replacing. I'm kind of pissed off about. It has a couple of seized links.

My sprockets are fine. Should I just replace the chain?

[stevierst]

Try soaking it in oil overnight, and I mean absolutely drenching it. Dry it off the next day and go for a ride.  See if that helps, then if it does, fit a chain oiler. That almost doubles the life of your chain, its a no brainer:D

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[Gnasher]

So my chain has only done 3000miles and needs replacing. I'm kind of pissed off about. It has a couple of seized links.

My sprockets are fine. Should I just replace the chain?

What chain is it, who fitted it and I'm assuming you've oiled it?

[xlewisbdx]

This is the chain. http://bit.ly/Zne7gf

For about 2 month I didn't look after it. Then I sat down cleaned it and oiled it. And I keep it clean and oiled now.

[darrsi]

We're only struggling to hit good weather now, so i'm presuming you neglected it in wet and cold conditions, with a load of salt thrown in for good measure!
There's your reason you have stiff links.

[Gnasher]

This is the chain. http://bit.ly/Zne7gf

For about 2 month I didn't look after it. Then I sat down cleaned it and oiled it. And I keep it clean and oiled now.

Ah......... Chinese crap mate it wouldn't have lasted that much longer even if you had looked after it I'm sorry to say!   

[unfazed]

Replace both and this time by a good quality chain not that plastic one you bought last time. False economy buy crap chains and reasonably good sprockets.
Fit a chain oiler.
There is 35000 miles on my present DID O ring chain and JTF rear sprocket at the moment and still pretty good, but then I do have a Scotoiler fitted.
The JTF front sprocket is replaced every 8 to10000 miles regardless of condition, since they are relatively cheap at £6. Remember the front sprocket wears 3 times faster than the rear sprocket (15 teeth to 45 teeth) and keeping it in good condition reduces the wear on the chain which reduces the wear on the rear sprocket.
Spray the chain with Autoglym when washing the bike and since is does not penetrate the seals it just cleans all the crap off the chain. My bike is used in all weathers and washed ever month or so. It is rinsed off once a week if the roads are salted
The above recommendations will get all sorts of comments, but my chains and rear sprockets have lasted well over 40000 miles

[cable tie]

Buy cheap. Pay twice.

[Lawrence]

We're only struggling to hit good weather now, so i'm presuming you neglected it in wet and cold conditions, with a load of salt thrown in for good measure!
There's your reason you have stiff links.

This.  My old chain (DID iirc) ended up with a load of stiff links during the winter.  I was lubing that one every other day (ever day if it was raining) and just ended up with a load of oily shite running down the swingarm from the chain guard 
 
It's got a Scottoiler on it now and I've not touched it (apart from to check) in the 8k since it was fitted in December.  I've gone through about £10 of genuine oil in that distance and I do keep it fairly oily.

[darrsi]

You have to make sure you really get into the links too when using spray lube, and do it by moving the rear wheel by hand, not when in gear and the wheel spinning on the centre stand.
It will be much more effective when the chain is warm too, so if using a spray put it on straight after you've been out on the bike.
I've always found Wurth chain lube, or wax, to stay put on the chain the best out of all the ones i've tried.

[Chris]

+1 for the wurth dry chain lube. As Darrsi said, put it on just when you get in from a run as the chain is warm and it helps the lube get in all the cracks         Links/joints 
 
Chris
 
Edit: Thought you might be ineterested in this Lewis: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,7586.0.html

[Lawrence]

It will be much more effective when the chain is warm too, so if using a spray put it on straight after you've been out on the bike.

In addition to this, if you put it on just before you go out, it won't have had time for the solvents to evaporate, will still be runny and will fly off as the chain goes round.  Always put it on when you get home.

[69oldskool]

Still on original yamaha chain @ 22.5 k, due replacing maybe next year, chains ok, sprockets are starting to look a bit tired.
 
Never bother cleaning, lubed regular though.
 
Try a wire brushing with paraffin, dry off thoroughly & then the overnight oil bath previously mentioned before you go spending any £.

[Dead Eye]

To really really soak a chain in oil wouldn't you need to remove the swingarm to get it off?

[stevierst]

To really really soak a chain in oil wouldn't you need to remove the swingarm to get it off?

Not really, just cover it generously in oil, it will be messy, but might work. Used to do it successfully with moto-x chains, and they do get a beasting!

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[Dead Eye]

Time for some innovative cutting of plastic bottles as oil catches :P

[Andy Clap]

Just noticed this in my Haynes manual about oiling the chain:


"Yamaha specifies 30 to 50W engine oil.  Do not use chain lube, which may contain solvents that could damage the O-rings, unless it is specified for O-ring chains"


Off to check my lube now...

[stevierst]

Yep, that's all I put in my chain oilers, engine oil!
I used to put old used engine oil through my oilers, but then I was doing over 30k/year, and rarely changed or had to adjust a drive chain. I did this for over 6 years without any problems. I use clean engine oil nowadays as my mileage has massively reduced to about 12k/year!
 The back wheel needed strong degreaser once a week as it was absolutely minging though!

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[darrsi]

Yep, that's all I put in my chain oilers, engine oil!
I used to put old used engine oil through my oilers, but then I was doing over 30k/year, and rarely changed or had to adjust a drive chain. I did this for over 6 years without any problems. I use clean engine oil nowadays as my mileage has massively reduced to about 12k/year!
 The back wheel needed strong degreaser once a week as it was absolutely minging though!

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I was gonna ask about that, does the oil not get chucked everywhere?

[Gnasher]

If correctly installed and set it shouldn't coat the back wheel or anything, most are not in both respects. 

[stevierst]

As Gnasher said. It takes a bit of tweeking to get the flow right, but once set, and you keep it filled up, they're pretty clean and maintenance free. No brainer to fit one!

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[Gnasher]

The position of the piping is also very important get it wrong and you are just oiling the road or the whole back end! 

[Lawrence]

I've stuck genuine Scottoiler oil in mine since it costs peanuts.  It came with a 250ml bottle and I've bought a 500ml bottle for £7.50, I've got about 250ml remaining at the moment and I've done 8k.
 
The swingarm is pretty crappy where it runs down off the chain guard and there's some sprayed up under the left indicator but I keep it fairly oily since I ride all weathers.

[dBfazer600]

The only thing I hate about bikes is the chain and maintenance of it. I with others hear have a scottoiler and have just changed to my summer setting. Other then visually check the chain and top up the oiler I have not touched the chain in years. Saying that I only do around 8k a year on it but ride in all weather.
 
Daz

[Gnasher]

I've stuck genuine Scottoiler oil in mine since it costs peanuts.  It came with a 250ml bottle and I've bought a 500ml bottle for £7.50, I've got about 250ml remaining at the moment and I've done 8k.
 
The swingarm is pretty crappy where it runs down off the chain guard and there's some sprayed up under the left indicator but I keep it fairly oily since I ride all weathers.

Your far better off buying 5L Mobile 1 0/40w from Halfords @ £39.99 works out £3.99 per 500ml works a treat and you can turn it down its much better oil for half the price or Halfords fully synth 0/40 works just as well and is even cheaper