Neutral switch

[blade023]

Greetings all, I've been lurking for a while and decided to post in the hope that some kind soul would be able to help me out with my fazer. The neutral light isn't coming on, on the dash, and it's not starting if the side stand is down or the clutch isn't pulled in. In other words, it never thinks it's in neutral even when it is. I was round at a friend's house today, so we could narrow down the problem, and we figured out it was the neutral switch that wasn't working.

By grounding various connections, following the wiring diagrams in the manual, we traced the connection from the dash to the left side starting circuit cutoff relay (good), from there to the right side connector (good), and from the right side connector down to the neutral switch (not good). Bypassing the wire that goes from the right side connector to the switch makes no difference (so the wire is ok) but bypassing the switch entirely makes the neutral light come on. I also tested resistance between the mentioned wire, and it was 0, hence I know the wire is good.

Does anyone know where I could get hold of a replacement neutral switch for my model of bike? 2001 gen1 fazer 1000. I've phoned the nearest bike place, and the cost of a new part is £35, I was hoping to get one for a bit less as I'm skint at the moment. Also if anyone could tell me if I could use a switch from another model, like the r6, r1 or anything. I've seen a few of these switches, and they all look pretty similar. Are they just mechanical switches? If so I'd imagine the only thing that's model specific is the length of the threaded section. Any confirmation or advice would be greatly appreciated.

[AyJay]

My neutral switch died a few years ago and luckily I had a spare engine ...


I'd be surprised if it isn't the same switch used on loads of Yamaha models - I can't imagine them designing a new one for every bike, but having said that rear brake callipers are unique to the FZS so you never know.


If you do buy one from the dealer, he'll probably tell you that you have to take the swing arm out to fit it. This is not so. You can unbolt the plastic overflow bottle and move it out of the way to get access. It's not an easy job, but 45 minutes of swearing should do it . . .

[ghostbiker]

check breakers but i wouldnt expect one for much under £20 with the postage added
i might be way off the mark though. no idea if it was the same on the r1 as i cant think off hand where it is located. its a good chance i would think if it fits in/on the block somewhere as thats fairly sim as the early r1's

[AyJay]

It's located right in the middle of the back of the block, behind the swingarm. Impossible to see . . . unless you're underneath the bike.

[unfazed]

Part number is 3GB-82540-01-00 and is the same as most R1s, R6, Fz6, Fazer 1000Gen 2 and FJR1300s.
They are about £35 new

[Falcon 269]

You could try removing and cleaning.  It's only a simple plunger-type switch and it may just be corroded on the contact or crudded-up around the working parts.

[blade023]

Wow, thanks for all the replies folks!

AyJay: yes, it took me about 45 minutes of swearing in total.

unfazed: thanks for the part number, that may just be the crucial bit of info I need while looking for a replacement.

Falcon: Good point, I'll give that a go.

I'll post back here with any progress made.

[blade023]

On an unrelated note, I've been trying to find a pinout diagram for the alarm system that's fitted. It's a Meta m351a and is wired into the loom with black wires. There should be 1 or 2 that I need to connect together in order to bypass the alarm completely, but the only place I can find such a thing is on the abacuscaralarms.co.uk website. The problem is, you need 'credits' to download these files, and I don't even know which file I need! The minimum credits you can buy are 10 for £5 (not really enough to discourage bike/car thieves who want to bypass these alarms, which is what I suspect they are trying to do).

I only need to know which wires to connect, and I don't really want to be paying £5 for that information. This alarm is driving me nuts, and I really don't need it. Anyone know the pinout for this model?

[sirgalahad3]

Hi blade,Pm me you email addy,I may have something for you......

[blade023]

SIR Galahad has just very kindly provided exactly what I need to sort out the alarm (in other words, rip the thing out and burn it..) Thankyou so much for that, it made my day when I read it and saw simple 2 step instructions to do exactly what I need. Especially considering I'd just had to bump start the bike to go to hellfrauds and then bump start to come home, after having jury rigged some extra batteries to the keyfob just to turn the immobiliser off. Most frustrating day.

Speaking of which, is there a karma system on this forum? If so, how do I use it? I would like to donate a few thousand internets to SirGalahad.

[sirgalahad3]

Your welcome blade,that is what the forum is for!
Glad it helped.

[richfzs]

There you go blade...

Culture Club - Karma Chameleon

[blade023]

Awesome thanks rich. I like that song! Listening to it now while replying.

To update yous guys, I've managed to get rid of the infernal battery auto drain device (alarm) and it only took me about 2 minutes! Nice. Didn't even have to bump start the bike after it was off. And the battery is showing 12.3-12.5 volts now, instead of 12v. Much healthier. Now as long as I can source a replacement neutral switch I'll be sorted.

[john roche]

On the subject of alarms, does anyone know how to remove a Datatool Stealth from a '96 VFR750?

Grateful thanks in advance.

Cheers

John