Author Topic: Sticky rear brake. (Read 4863 times)

mickvp · « **on:** 17 March 2014, 05:48:46 pm »

So after my bike lying for 3-4 weeks, it appears it has not done the rear caliper any favours. The function has been greatly reduced, and the brake is sticking. I assume (?) That this means the caliper will need stripped and cleaned and rebuilt, which is fine, can anyone tell me how many seals I need to do this? I see wemoto selling them as singles, and they don't do a kit for the rear calipers.

I'm not interested in changing for a thou caliper, as I really want to keep it OEM (I plan on selling soon, so don't want the hassle of explaining that the rear caliper is different to someone who may not be a member from here).

Aside from giving the piston a good clean and changing the seals, is there anything else I should be looking at that may be affecting the performance? The fluid is only 4 month old, so I'm confident that's ok, although it may need bled again too?

Chris · « **Reply #1 on:** 17 March 2014, 06:05:45 pm »

If you're redoing the seals then it'll need new fluid and need bled again.

There are two pistons so you'll need two fluid seals and two dust seals to complete the job. If you split the caliper then there is a very small rubber seal between the two halves. Apparently no one makes a proper replacement for it but I just reused mine, as others have done, and it's been fine. It doesn't wear out like the ones at the pistons as there is nothing rubbing on it. Splitting the caliper makes it much easier to do the seals although I only did it so that it was easier to paint it.

Chris

elbrownos · « **Reply #2 on:** 17 March 2014, 06:10:21 pm »

I had good results with these seals
http://www.bitzforbikes.co.uk/Yamaha/FZS_600/Fazer_98_-_03/Caliper_Piston_and_Seal_Kits_

mickvp · « **Reply #3 on:** 17 March 2014, 06:14:04 pm »

Yeah, I know I'll need it off to do the seals, which will mean putting more new fluid in, I was simply hi lighting that the stuff in was new in case people thought to ask if the stuff in there had degraded.

So I need 4 seals then 2 dust seals, and 2 fluid seals. Magic, I'll get those ordered up as it's brutal not having any back brake

Chris · « **Reply #4 on:** 17 March 2014, 06:16:51 pm »

If you don't think it needs the seals done then just push the pistons out a bit, not fully! and polish them, then push them back in, might solve it with a lot less hassle.

Chris

mickvp · « **Reply #5 on:** 17 March 2014, 06:19:06 pm »

I suppose I could try that, but I suspect the calliper may be on its original seals, and polishing in that way is generally a temp fix. If I'm selling it I would rather do a pukka job on it. I'm a bit OCD that way

Chris · « **Reply #6 on:** 17 March 2014, 06:31:47 pm »

Me too but it might sort it. Try it first, save you money and a lot of time. I presume you have a decent metal polish. I used Gtechniq M1 on mine and they came up like new.

Chris

mickvp · « **Reply #7 on:** 17 March 2014, 06:43:35 pm »

I've got polish coming out my ears at the minute, yes. Seems like I'm never done buying detailing kit to try out. Some britemax twins should work wonders

Chris · « **Reply #8 on:** 17 March 2014, 06:47:05 pm »

Haha, tell me about it. Just spent a small fortune on some new bits and pieces: Megs Mf pads, Iron x, AF tough coat, oblitarate, triple. Really liking the AF stuff just now. Never used the britemax twins but heard and seen very good results.

Chris

mickvp · « **Reply #9 on:** 17 March 2014, 06:51:05 pm »

Some of the AF range is excellent,James who owns it is a really nice fella as well. Tripple in particular is excellent

Chris · « **Reply #10 on:** 17 March 2014, 07:32:17 pm »

Quote from: mickvp on 17 March 2014, 06:51:05 pm

Some of the AF range is excellent,James who owns it is a really nice fella as well. Tripple in particular is excellent

Yeah, been really impressed by their range. Only tried triple on a small area but it was very nice to use. Tough coat is working very well, beading like a demon, just not sure how long it'll last.

Chris

mickvp · « **Reply #11 on:** 17 March 2014, 07:34:07 pm »

Depending on how much you use your bike, don't be surprised to still see beading after 3 months.

I've switched over to CarPro hydro 2 as my main sealant, not as durable as tough coat/cquartz uk, but it's quicker and easier to apply so I just do it more regularly as part of a wash routine.

Anyway, we have gone a bit geek, anymore of this and we will be outed on here I reckon

Chris · « **Reply #12 on:** 17 March 2014, 07:39:23 pm »

I've got EXO on the bike. Put the tough coat on the car to try it out.

Main sealant is EXO but the tough coat I'll use when I do friends cars etc or my favourite wax, colli 915, so easy on easy off and so durable for a wax.

Hahaha, yeah. better start a detailing thread if we want to keep this chat going. haha

Sorry everyone...

Chris

Andy FZS · « **Reply #13 on:** 17 March 2014, 08:05:57 pm »

I never understood a word.....please explain.lol

Chris · « **Reply #14 on:** 17 March 2014, 08:09:59 pm »

Car/bike cleaning products

Find out more at www.detailingworld.co.uk if you want to clean things like an OCD person.

Chris

noggythenog · « **Reply #15 on:** 17 March 2014, 08:14:13 pm »

Yous pair need yur heads detailed

mickvp · « **Reply #16 on:** 17 March 2014, 08:16:21 pm »

Chris... I think you mean www.detailingnation.com mate

I hear the admin on there are excellent

Chris · « **Reply #17 on:** 17 March 2014, 08:29:58 pm »

Quote from: mickvp on 17 March 2014, 08:16:21 pm

Chris... I think you mean www.detailingnation.com mate

I hear the admin on there are excellent

Yeah ^^ that's the place I meant lads, you go there

Chris

Fuzzy · « **Reply #18 on:** 17 March 2014, 08:41:19 pm »

A good old clean and application of red rubber grease might do the job, might save you the hassle of a rebuild.

mickvp · « **Reply #19 on:** 17 March 2014, 10:01:09 pm »

So what does that involve then, cleaning it obviously, do you just put plenty round the pistons and on the back of the pads then?

darrsi · « **Reply #20 on:** 17 March 2014, 10:03:39 pm »

Bad weather encourages crap to build up inside the pivot of the rear brake lever, give it a spray with brake cleaner or even WD40 and then drop some 3 in 1 oil onto it and you'll be amazed at how it can improve braking sharpness.
It may not be your actual issue but you should do this every month to keep it clean anyway.

mickvp · « **Reply #21 on:** 17 March 2014, 10:11:42 pm »

That's a good shout actually darrsi, and something that's probably overdue given I've been out and been caught in the wet a couple of times. Likely that's contributing to my troubles as well, as I have found I also needed to flick the pedal back up with my toe as the spring just wasn't persuading it enough.

Fuzzy · « **Reply #22 on:** 17 March 2014, 10:16:33 pm »

Best stuff to use is brake cleaner and red rubber grease to achieve the same - there is a risk wd40 and similar can damage the rubber seals although admittedly I've used that and gt85 in the past with no ill effects. See the link for a good guide.

http://www.bikesandtravels.co.uk/biker.aspx?ride=156&info=1

Once a piston is cleaned, I smear it lightly with red rubber grease before pushing the piston back into the caliper, and wipe off excess which will attract dirt or run off onto the braking surfaces. As the pistons might need more persuading to move this time, you could try wd40 or similar to free them up but would not use too much too regularly - my 2 pence worth. Rest is covered in the guide I think. Back of the pads and brake pins, use a little copper grease not the red stuff.

mickvp · « **Reply #23 on:** 17 March 2014, 10:26:40 pm »

Thanks for that fuzzy, that's a great guide.

darrsi · « **Reply #24 on:** 18 March 2014, 06:44:22 am »

Quote from: Fuzzy on 17 March 2014, 10:16:33 pm

Best stuff to use is brake cleaner and red rubber grease to achieve the same - there is a risk wd40 and similar can damage the rubber seals although admittedly I've used that and gt85 in the past with no ill effects. See the link for a good guide.

http://www.bikesandtravels.co.uk/biker.aspx?ride=156&info=1

Once a piston is cleaned, I smear it lightly with red rubber grease before pushing the piston back into the caliper, and wipe off excess which will attract dirt or run off onto the braking surfaces. As the pistons might need more persuading to move this time, you could try wd40 or similar to free them up but would not use too much too regularly - my 2 pence worth. Rest is covered in the guide I think. Back of the pads and brake pins, use a little copper grease not the red stuff.

I'm only on about the lever pivot with the WD40, i wouldn't go near the calipers with it.

Calipers are strictly brake cleaner only, as it leaves no residue at all. I've used a normal degreaser spray before and the residue left behind caused the pistons to misbehave, even though i used plenty of red rubber grease.