Date: 01-05-24  Time: 16:06 pm

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Messages - Fazerider

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1826
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Battery recommendations
« on: 01 July 2012, 09:21:45 am »
I deal with film equipment batteries daily, they don't suddenly go from good to bad overnight, you get warning signs...
I've had exactly the opposite experience with lead-acid vehicle batteries. All the ones I've had to change have gone from starting the engine with no difficulty one day to not being able to energise the relay the next. (Oddly, the one in my Fazer is still going strong after nearly 14 years use, but I fully expect it to turn to scrap overnight at some point.)
All the same, you're right about checking the connections are good before spending money on a replacement. :)

1827
General / Re: How much oil for oil change?
« on: 27 June 2012, 02:38:13 pm »
Must admit that puzzled me too, but I certainly use more than three litres when I change the oil so maybe the manual assumes you leave it on the centrestand and screw the drain plug back in as soon as the flow slows. :rolleyes


Like most people, I try to get as much of the old oil out as possible.
Either way, a 4 or 5 litre can of oil is usually a far more economical way of buying the stuff than individual one litre bottles. Beyond that, it doesn't really matter... just fill it until it is at the top of the sight glass, run the engine for a bit to fill the filter, wait a bit and check/top-up the level again.

1828
General / Re: How much oil for oil change?
« on: 27 June 2012, 08:45:00 am »
As I understand it, the 400 shares the bottom end with the 600, so total amount of oil will be the same at 3.5 litres.

1829
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Knackering vibration low rev
« on: 23 June 2012, 12:33:20 pm »
From the fact that the problem occurs in all gears, but is OK at higher revs it sounds as if the next thing to do is balance the carbs. If that doesn't help, take a look at the spark plugs to see if there's any sign of a cylinder misfiring.


If the carbs are out of balance, that will make low-speed riding jerky.
Another possible cause of a sloppy throttle response when riding is loose throttle cables. Lift the tank and have a look at the amount of free play, there are adjusters where they attach to the centre of the carb assembly.


Another cause of snatchy throttle response could be a knackered clutch, the friction and drive plates could possibly cause enough wear on the basket to become sloppy, though in my experience it's a pretty reliable unit.


Riding style may be a factor. There will always be some slop in the drive train which you feel as you as the throttle is opened and closed, this can be overcome by gentle use of the back brake to keep the upper run of the chain taut before you apply power. This technique makes a huge difference in slow corners.

1830
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Ultimate FZS 600
« on: 21 June 2012, 02:00:19 pm »
Impressive job.
All it needs now is a nice stiff alloy frame off, say, an R1 to handle the extra power and you'd have decent bike. :lol


Anyway, apologies to Wraith... I seem to recall saying (about 6 months ago), that it probably wouldn't fit.


Still think it's a guaranteed way of spending a huge amount of time, effort and money to produce something that'll sell for about 10% of what would make the venture worthwhile from a purely economic point of view. Fine if it's a hobby and you're intending to keep it, but this guy is clearly going to take a huge loss.

1831
General / Re: Yet another (again!) boiler Q
« on: 21 June 2012, 11:18:49 am »
A direct non-combi replacment should be cheaper since all the other bits are already present.
If you're shorter of space than money, then changing to a combi will free up a bit of room in the airing cupboard (no need for a hot water tank) and if the header tank is in the loft (sometimes they're on top of the HWT) then that could go too.
It would also mean your hot water is at mains pressure which makes for better showers, though if the existing tank is high enough or you've a shower pump or an electric shower running off mains pressure already then there isn't much advantage to changing.

1832
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Quite possibly a daft exhaust question?
« on: 20 June 2012, 09:21:31 am »
I've had occasion to open up a couple of OE silencers and found them to have two or three chambers with a number of 1" tubes as interconnectors. I've not dismantled an original Fazer exhaust though, so will be interested to hear what you find.
Other than the one on a little Yamaha 2-stroke I used for a while, the only silencers I've seen that employ a central perforated tube surrounded by an absorbent wadding have been after-market ones.
I suspect that the noise and heat that glass fibre wadding is subjected to causes it to slowly disintegrate and blow out with the exhaust gases anyway.


1833
General / Re: Photography competition - June
« on: 20 June 2012, 12:37:58 am »



Taken at the Southampton Boat Show a few years ago.





Aside from the "Thundercat", the lifeboats on the vessel in the background caught my eye... looks like deployment would be an even more exciting ride than the speedboat. :eek

1834
FZS600 Fazer / Re: REAR BRAKE
« on: 17 June 2012, 12:19:26 am »
It's a somewhat fiddly job getting the old seals out, the dust seals are easy as they're near the edge and are thin... the inner seal is thicker and less flexible. I made up a tool from one of those big staples you find holding cardboard boxes together. To avoid scuffing the front surface of the groove that the seal sits in (which is what the seal presses against when the brake fluid is at high pressure) it's best to hook the seal out from behind. Diagram probably explains it better:





Other than that, and the usual worry of keeping the insides as clean as possible when the outside parts seem to have limitless quantities of grime and loose corrosion trying to get in there, and the hassle of bleeding the last reluctant air bubbles out once you've refitted it... yes, it's an easy job.  :lol
Hope tomorrow's attempt to clean the pistons is a success!

1835
FZS600 Fazer / Re: rear shock again more ideas
« on: 16 June 2012, 09:11:22 pm »
If you're suggesting installing a TRX850 linkage, I think that would be the start of a lot of difficulties.
It's hard to say for sure without all the measurements to hand, but I think you'd find the lower shock mount would be so far back the shock would foul the swingarm.

1836
FZS600 Fazer / Re: REAR BRAKE
« on: 16 June 2012, 06:52:22 pm »
It does sound as if a piston is sticking.
Trouble is, if there was the remains of a ring of crud around one it may, depending on how far along the length of the piston it was, have caused some damage to the seals. Best bet is to pop them out and clean the pistons thoroughly, changing the seals at the same time would be wise. Use OEM ones.
The pistons do have a very good chrome plated surface so hopefully you'll find no rust pits anywhere that matters but, if there are, replace them too or they'll wreck the seals.

1837
You're right, the sensor is on the thermostat block so it stays nice and cool if there's a leak.
My radiator developed a hole last winter... felt the bike was running a bit rough during the morning thrash through traffic to work, but it was only when I parked up that I noticed the engine seemed a bit hot and it stank of evaporated coolant. The warning light, of course, remained off.  :rolleyes

1838
General / Re: Inner Sproket and Drive Shaft Replacement Cost
« on: 14 June 2012, 09:33:55 am »
I'd definitely shop around.
I don't know if Yamaha has allowed a realistic time for the task. If they have, and your dealer is admitting they aren't able to do it in the specified time, then maybe his mechanic isn't that good.
I've not heard of anyone getting charged for extra hours, but there have been plenty of tales of slow jobs which implies that workshops are only working on it when no other jobs are available.
So the choice may be between a slow job or one for which you'll have to stump up some extra cash.


My choice was to weld the nut onto the shaft myself and I ran it like that for about 50,000 miles before I swapped the engine. :) 

1839
FZS600 Fazer / Re: fuel tank required
« on: 12 June 2012, 05:20:43 pm »
I had this exact problem a while ago and repaired the tank.
After cleaning the tank very thoroughly I braised a steel patch over the hole. I then lined the tank with a two part resin called Restom to try to stop the problem recurring. Four years on and it's still good, so I can recommend it.
The resin came as a kit with degreaser and an anti-rust treatment which you use to prepare the inside of the tank before applying the sealant compound itself. It's French, and doesn't advertise a distributor over here, but I found it on eBay from a chap going by the username hotsun314. He's not currently listing the stuff, but I see from his feedback that he did sell some last year so it might be worth an enquiry. Alternatively, you can get it direct from the manufacturer.

1840
General / Re: warning lights
« on: 10 June 2012, 08:13:55 am »
It sounds more like an earthing fault caused by a poor connection somewhere rather than a duff battery.
Check for corroded contacts in the connectors in the housing under the tank.

1841
General / Re: Oil
« on: 09 June 2012, 11:11:48 am »
how much is postage on that oil?
£0.00

1842
General / Re: fender extender fitting
« on: 09 June 2012, 09:20:45 am »
I glued mine on with silicone sealant... no screws needed. :)

1843
General / Re: Oil
« on: 09 June 2012, 09:18:51 am »
Figure at that price it's worth stocking up and just ordered 3 on their PITA website to get the free delivery deal as well.
I can't see how they're making a profit by selling at that price, I suspect it's all an administrative cock-up... as soon as the order was placed they sent no fewer than four order confirmation emails. :lol

1844
General / Re: My Chinese 125
« on: 08 June 2012, 02:17:32 pm »
Oil pumps have a pretty easy life so long as there's something there for them to pump.
This looks more typical of a dropped valve: either metal fatigue causes the head of the valve to drop off or over-revving gives the retaining collets at the top of the stem the chance to jump out.

1845
FZS600 Fazer / Re: How to diagnose sticky brake piston?
« on: 06 June 2012, 03:08:20 pm »
I usually get by with undoing the two bolts and wriggling the caliper off the disc. Free the pads, then you can get in there with an old toothbrush and WD40 and I normally find that, with a bit of pushing pistons in and out, that I can get it moving smoothly again without actually removing pistons.. this saves the hassle of bleeding air out of the system.
Replacement (OE) pistons and seals looks like about £45, seals alone a good bit cheaper.
A blue spot will be around £50 s/h, of course you'll need pads too... and since it's bound to be a bit of unknown quality, you'll probably want to change the seals on it. Advantage is, of course, you can do all that work in advance without having the bike out of action.

1846
General / Re: Transit of Venus - Wed AM (v. early!)
« on: 05 June 2012, 08:08:48 am »
Missed it.
Oh well, hope to catch the next one. :lol
Prefer transits of the moon anyway, was lucky enough to see the Cornish one in 1999.

1847
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Charge voltages
« on: 04 June 2012, 09:03:58 am »
At first sight I can't see anything suggesting a duff regulator there, but it depends what your engine revs were.
The output of the generator rises with rpm and the excess power is dissipated by the regulator- if it's faulty the voltage can get too high.  14V is OK, but what is it at 10,000 rpm?

1848
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Those BLUE caliper bits....
« on: 03 June 2012, 02:44:34 pm »
... what is the actual purpose of them?
They are the back of the brake cylinder. The force on them during braking is enormous so they're bonded in pretty firmly.
You'll be lucky to get them out and in without buggering up the threads.
I'd leave well alone. If it bothered me I'd paint them matt black to match the rest of the caliper or get some complete gold or silver ones on eBay rather than risk wrecking them.

1849
FZS600 Fazer / Re: MPG
« on: 03 June 2012, 08:44:37 am »
I've realised the likely cause of my unexpectedly good tankful: I didn't fill up at my usual place and the forecourt was on slope.
It may be that I was able to get a full 18 litres in because it didn't reach the neck quite so soon with more of the wide front part of the tank available. It would have probably only been a 17 litre fill at my normal place, so the tank was fuller than normal on account of the previous (gentler riding) tankful being more economical than I'd thought.
There are just too many ways to cock up the measurements for an accurate figure to be found from an individual tankful. I guess the rolling figure on Fuelly is the best way to gauge consumption as that way the inaccuracies will average out. It does require patience though, I struggled to change my riding style for one tankful... I don't think I'd attempt it for ten. :lol

1850
FZS600 Fazer / Re: MPG
« on: 02 June 2012, 06:49:05 pm »
I usually get 54mpg and it never seemed to vary much. The tankful before last I decided to take things a bit slower to see if it reduced fuel consumption, and it did, slightly: an excellent 56mpg. I intended to continue gentle riding with the last fill-up, but sort of got bored with it and reverted to my usual style... and got 253 miles out of the 18 litres I'd stuck in there. That's 30 miles more than I'd normally get and equates to 63mpg. Weird.
A generous fuel pump was one possible explanation, but I'd not run the tank unusually low before the fill-up, I'd not have expected to get more than 18 litres in.
So I've no idea what's going on.
Not that I'm complaining, I look forward to finding out what the current tankful returns. :)


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