This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - crussell92
Pages: [1]
1
« on: 31 August 2022, 05:15:55 am »
Thanks for your reply gaz.
I'll admit I have no way of torquing the castle nuts which I know is not ideal, have been loosening and tightening then riding the bike to see how it feels. There is a massive difference with little adjustments so have now ordered the tools to be able to torque it.
So I managed to get a helper to hold the bike whilst I performed some checks; if I hold the forks above the seals there is no play but holding them below the seals gives the slightest bit of play. So am I right in thinking that is fork bushings worn out?
Luckily taking the forks out is a doddle on the fazer 😂
2
« on: 24 August 2022, 09:26:22 am »
Hi guys, bit of help needed please, gen 1 fazer.
There was play in the forks which started last year on tour. No problem thought I, headstock bearings could do with replacement. Just replaced them but still there is play. Anyone that's done this before got ideas what it could be?
Tried messing with the bearing preload, tighter or looser it makes no difference. Pinch bolts all tight. It makes me think it could be something else but for the life of me can't see anything else it can be!
Still, at least it's not booked in for mot tomorrow morning 😏
Any help and suggestions greatly appreciated.
3
« on: 26 June 2019, 02:08:30 am »
Greetings from fazerland! Mine used to do this, turned out the pins were corroded in the connector block under the left hand infill. Once this was cleaned up and jiggled about with contact cleaner all was well, and has been well for 2 years. This also made the indicators play up as well but thats another story.
Good luck!
4
« on: 31 January 2019, 09:43:39 pm »
All sorted. Cheers Mick!
5
« on: 31 January 2019, 10:57:20 am »
Would you not be willing to sell just the left? If not ill have them providing they work and are in good condition. Thanks
6
« on: 28 January 2019, 06:41:13 pm »
So as is to be expected, MOT time is fast approaching, the horn decides to pack up. Seems there is no power coming from the horn button, the horn itself does actually work.
I therefore need a switchgear. If anyone has a working one kicking around in decent nick please let me know!
Cheers
7
« on: 21 October 2018, 06:46:10 pm »
I had a 2002 bandit that used to do this. Fine when warm but cold it didn't want to go. Turned out one of the choke sliders wasnt opening/closing with the rest on carb no 2, so id operate the choke and see if you can visually see them all operating.
8
« on: 20 September 2018, 09:05:26 pm »
This may be a long shot, but if anyone has the pulley that the cables go in to on the exup valve itself (not the servo) that they don't mind parting with then that'd be great!
9
« on: 26 August 2018, 09:26:21 pm »
Pm'd.
10
« on: 22 August 2018, 09:52:16 am »
Not tried nighteye but I have a safego set installed to mine and highly recommend them. Been on for a good 5k miles and no issues, although I know they're a tad more expensive than the nighteyes.
11
« on: 20 May 2018, 05:38:18 pm »
Bought myself a slip on which is too small for my 61mm link pipe. I need a 51mm for a gen 1 fazer. If anyone has one kicking around that'd be great!
12
« on: 27 March 2018, 06:10:46 am »
Not that im trying to say you're wrong, but I can't see how balancing would make that much of a difference to the tyre wear. Logically if the wheel is vibrating as it's going round it's going to generate more heat and maybe wear out quicker? But if you feel your tyre after a ride in the summer i don't think it would make any noticeable difference. The only thing I could think of it affecting longer term is the wheel bearings as they vibrate on the axle.
13
« on: 25 March 2018, 08:21:09 am »
I fit my tyres myself and never balance the wheels, never had any kind of balance problem on any bike thus far so if you find the same i wouldn't worry
14
« on: 25 March 2018, 08:12:03 am »
Are the headlights in good condition, any broken mounting points/adjusters? I'll have them if all good please
15
« on: 20 March 2018, 09:28:23 pm »
Swap it for a 1000
16
« on: 24 February 2018, 01:49:31 pm »
When refitting i always put the wheel on a wooden block the same height as the holes for the axle. That way after hooking the chain on you can push the wheel back in line and sort your spacers and stuff out without awkwardly holding up the wheel 😀
17
« on: 24 January 2018, 08:56:17 am »
In need of some clocks if anyone has any laying around! The bike is a 2001 fzs 1000. Thanks 
18
« on: 26 March 2017, 11:23:41 am »
Finding on of these is like trying to find a needle in a haystack!
Its the bracket on thr front of the frame (held with 2 hex bolts) and supports the headlights clocks and fairing.
Anyone have one or know where to locate one? Also after a set of gen 1 headlights if anyone has some.
Thanks in advance
19
« on: 21 February 2017, 10:53:15 am »
Does a belly pan make much difference? My pipes got caked in crap this year so I'm considering putting one on for next winter but they all seem to be quite open in the centre?
Belly pan makes no difference to dirt on mine all I find is it makes it harder to clean and autosol. Although saying that it looks loads better with it on 👍
20
« on: 19 February 2017, 06:16:12 pm »
Ok so completed (most of - exup!) this job earlier today, once all the bolts have been freed from a 16 year old bike the rest is plain sailing!
If anyone is thinking of doing this, id recommend you first buy some form of heat. Without it header nuts/studs would have snapped and made the job loads harder. I used a rothenberger torch with a mapp gas canister, gets bolts cherry red in no time and they all came off without much of a fight.
Getting the sump to seal properly was the next challenge so take plenty of time to get the mating surfaces shiney. I had an ever so slight rasied part just behind the dowel at the front of the engine which resulted in dropping the sump twice more because of a weep
Again, thanks Falcon for your advice and that useful thread. Although a ballache it could have potentially saved an engine!
21
« on: 30 January 2017, 04:18:26 pm »
Thanks so much for that Falcon, very informative post.
Not that im trying to cut corners but it seems that if the black 'o' ring comes out with the pipe and doesn't drop into the sump the pipe could be put back through the hole and back in to the pump without sump pan removal?
Just ordered a new pipe so will be tacking this soon. Header bolts looking very rusty as well, not good! 😲
22
« on: 29 January 2017, 03:21:15 pm »
 Here's a picture to help clarify what im on about, hopefully it works!
23
« on: 29 January 2017, 01:16:01 pm »
Firstly greetings all! A new fazer 1000 owner here, been browsing this forum since owning my fzs1000, and have to say found it very useful.
However, during todays routine maintenance (coolant and oil change) something alarming has happened. On undoing the coolant drain bolt it just snapped off, no problem thought I, ill just take the peice of pipe off and drill it out. So took off the hoses, undid the bolt that holds the pipe into the block and began to take the bit of pipe out. It came out without much of a fight so i assumed all was well. However it was at this time (when the pipe was half way out) i saw coolant coming out of the sump.
I noticed that behind the gasket is like a brass type tube the bore size of the pipe which i wasn't expecting to be there, it looks like part of the pipe. Having not had a yamaha before im not sure if this is normal. I guess my question is when its all reassembled will it go back to normal?
Im hoping someone can shed some light on this situation, any help would be greatly appreciated!
Pages: [1]
|
Show Posts