Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: fordlatch41 on 28 March 2018, 05:52:48 pm
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I have just upgraded the front sprocket on my 2001 to a 16 tooth item, also upgraded to the 12mm thick nut and new lock washer as it still had the old 9mm nut fitted, the vibration at 70 mph was driving me mad which is why I decided to change the sprocket. So now it revs at about 700 rpm lower, doesn't seem to have affected the performance by much if any, but now is super smooth up to almost 80 mph. Just thought I would put it out there chaps.
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have you tried balancing the carbs it help smooth it out i get very little at 70 mph just a thought ,,
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i think matt7chunk also runs a 16t
ive just pulled my 14t off and put back my 15t, was good fun for accelerating off the line and hooligan fun but my recent 120mile trip used much more fuel and lost a lot of the top end
might try a 16 if i go for a massive ride down south as most of it will be on the motorway anyhow
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have you tried balancing the carbs it help smooth it out i get very little at 70 mph just a thought ,,
Yes I did them last night actually, it's defo a mechanical prob on these machines, a proper tingling through my feet at 6250 rpm
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Mine vibrates a fair bit at that rpm too so much so that for the missus sake I've wrapped a bicycle inner tube around the pillion handle, don't know if my carbs need balancing but I've just bought a Morgan carb tune so I'll know soon enough. In the interest of serving the community I've just ordered a +2 17 tooth sprocket and will let you all know how it feels. Should do good things for fuel consumption and hopefully keep the other half quiet.
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Very common for these 600's to have a bit of a vibration patch round about the 6,500 mark. Correctly balanced carbs helps but may not eliminate it completely. It's unfortunate that it happens to be at the sort of speed when you want to just cruise down the motorway within the legal limit.
Triggergee. It will be interesting to know how you find the 17 tooth sprocket. Hope you can back off the chain adjustment enough not to have to alter the chain.
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legal limit -whats that ??? (the kids like me passing the school at 70mph on my back wheel)
im 5 notches back on my 15t and was nearly at the back on my 14t
i have a feeling if you go 17 it will be a remeasure and longer chain so your stuck with it once riveted or throwing money away
i think we are at 110 links standard
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i think matt7chunk also runs a 16t
ive just pulled my 14t off and put back my 15t, was good fun for accelerating off the line and hooligan fun but my recent 120mile trip used much more fuel and lost a lot of the top end
might try a 16 if i go for a massive ride down south as most of it will be on the motorway anyhow
Indeed I do, interested to hear about the 17t also, might be to much of a change though considering that's like the equivalent of losing 4 off the rear if I'm correct?
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there is more maths to it the bigger the change but the general consensus is 1 tooth is effectively 3 teeth on the rear
was talking to my father today about switching back to the 15 and he said he thought it wouldnt last long given the difference in riding conditions here
if your up and down the motorway all the time and not spending much time town riding a 17 wouldnt be a terrible
14t 3.43 /1
15t 3.2 /1
16t 3 /1
17t 2.82 /1
cant remember the primary reduction but you can see that is a serious change
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Didn't really think about chain length.. idiot. I've got four notches/lines to play with but I'm not sure that will be enough. I may or may not buy a new chain if it doesn't fit. Is there a cheap way to lengthen the chain?
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if you go D.I.D you can buy extra links which of course need a rivet tool to fit, if you already have a d.i.d then a rivet remover can be used to remove old and replace more links
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have you tried balancing the carbs it help smooth it out i get very little at 70 mph just a thought ,,
Yes I did them last night actually, it's defo a mechanical prob on these machines, a proper tingling through my feet at 6250 rpm
Just take into consideration that the rear wheel alignment might cause mild knocking at speed if it ain't quite right.
Even spinning the rear wheel in reverse on the centre stand can show this up, and you can also hear if it's not true.
Don't totally rely on the swingarm markings.
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funny you should mention that after i have spent an hour killing myself over that today
with the wheel in the air it was shaking around like mad but when under pressure no problem at all
without a laser alignment tool its hard to be sure but them lines are the best we have - they are made in a pretty accurate JIG but as time passes we lose alignment through bearing wear etc
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if you go D.I.D you can buy extra links which of course need a rivet tool to fit, if you already have a d.i.d then a rivet remover can be used to remove old and replace more links
I've got a sealey chain tool although like a tit I snapped the one of the pins on its first use as I didn't notice the the chain rivet wasn't fitting through the anvil and kept cranking on the ratchet until it pinged... and a JT chain, 530 Z3? maybe so I'll have a look tomorrow to see if I can get extra links for that. Wonder what rpm it would be at on the motorway at "legal" speed limit
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Mine vibrates a fair bit at that rpm too so much so that for the missus I've a bicycle inner tube
:eek WTF is your mrs doing with a vibrating rubber inner tube. ------------- Had to say it before that idiot Tommy said it.
I dont notice any vibe other than at about 3500k - its the buzing fairing/bulb fitting. My cure is not to pootle around at 3500k
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Mine vibrates a fair bit at that rpm too so much so that for the missus I've a bicycle inner tube
:eek WTF is your mrs doing with a vibrating rubber inner tube. ------------- Had to say it before that idiot Tommy said it.
I dont notice any vibe other than at about 3500k - its the buzing fairing/bulb fitting. My cure is not to pootle around at 3500k
If you shout "La la la la" in your head you can't hear feck all, bike's fine. :lol
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Don't try the movie though, LA LA LAND really was shite.
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Mine vibrates a fair bit at that rpm too so much so that for the missus I've a bicycle inner tube
:eek WTF is your mrs doing with a vibrating rubber inner tube. ------------- Had to say it before that idiot Tommy said it.
I dont notice any vibe other than at about 3500k - its the buzing fairing/bulb fitting. My cure is not to pootle around at 3500k
Bit rude :eek
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Mine vibrates a fair bit at that rpm too so much so that for the missus I've a bicycle inner tube
:eek WTF is your mrs doing with a vibrating rubber inner tube. ------------- Had to say it before that idiot Tommy said it.
I dont notice any vibe other than at about 3500k - its the buzing fairing/bulb fitting. My cure is not to pootle around at 3500k
Bit rude :eek
:pokefun
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funny you should mention that after i have spent an hour killing myself over that today
with the wheel in the air it was shaking around like mad but when under pressure no problem at all
without a laser alignment tool its hard to be sure but them lines are the best we have - they are made in a pretty accurate JIG but as time passes we lose alignment through bearing wear etc
Are you on about letting the wheel spin in gear with engine running on the centre stand?
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yeah i was cleaning the chain and decided to just start her up and let her spin the wheel on the paddock stand as i sprayed the hose at it to remove the cleaner and it was bouncing all over the place- turns out it was just riding the front sprocket a bit - its fine when its under load
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yeah i was cleaning the chain and decided to just start her up and let her spin the wheel on the paddock stand as i sprayed the hose at it to remove the cleaner and it was bouncing all over the place- turns out it was just riding the front sprocket a bit - its fine when its under load
It's the momentum of the wheel gaining speed but the chain won't let it go faster than the engine speed, which causes that shuddering effect.
Get quite a few people freaked out by it when it happens, but as you say just a very tiny bit of throttle levels it out.
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17 tooth sprocket arrived today, big bastered... as soon as it stops raining I'll attempt to fit it and let you all know my opinion.
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I've a theory that it's the exhaust resonating at 6k that causes the problem. I just need someone mad enough to go flying up the road with no exhaust to test the theory :lol
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I've a theory that it's the exhaust resonating at 6k that causes the problem. I just need someone mad enough to go flying up the road with no exhaust to test the theory :lol
done it - for some reason people kept looking at me
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funny you should mention that after i have spent an hour killing myself over that today
with the wheel in the air it was shaking around like mad but when under pressure no problem at all
without a laser alignment tool its hard to be sure but them lines are the best we have - they are made in a pretty accurate JIG but as time passes we lose alignment through bearing wear etc
I usually measure the length of the stud protruding with a small steel rule after a visual line up with the swing arm markings, seems to work for me.
yeah i was cleaning the chain and decided to just start her up and let her spin the wheel on the paddock stand as i sprayed the hose at it to remove the cleaner and it was bouncing all over the place- turns out it was just riding the front sprocket a bit - its fine when its under load
It's the momentum of the wheel gaining speed but the chain won't let it go faster than the engine speed, which causes that shuddering effect.
Get quite a few people freaked out by it when it happens, but as you say just a very tiny bit of throttle levels it out.
lol, that's my method for applying grease to the chain, set it spinning (gentlly).
I've a theory that it's the exhaust resonating at 6k that causes the problem. I just need someone mad enough to go flying up the road with no exhaust to test the theory :lol
done it - for some reason people kept looking at me
Lol I too like this theory, I've often wondered if it's anything to do with the camshaft rpms, it's about this range 5-6k that the powerband kicks in.
17 tooth sprocket arrived today, big bastered... as soon as it stops raining I'll attempt to fit it and let you all know my opinion.
Looking forward to your verdict fella :thumbup
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funny you should mention that after i have spent an hour killing myself over that today
with the wheel in the air it was shaking around like mad but when under pressure no problem at all
without a laser alignment tool its hard to be sure but them lines are the best we have - they are made in a pretty accurate JIG but as time passes we lose alignment through bearing wear etc
I dont have the confidence in the marks on the swingarm. Last two times ive had to do it, ive set up two strings down the sides of the bike and measured from the wheels. The chain seems to sit better in the sprocket teeth this way.
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funny you should mention that after i have spent an hour killing myself over that today
with the wheel in the air it was shaking around like mad but when under pressure no problem at all
without a laser alignment tool its hard to be sure but them lines are the best we have - they are made in a pretty accurate JIG but as time passes we lose alignment through bearing wear etc
I dont have the confidence in the marks on the swingarm. Last two times ive had to do it, ive set up two strings down the sides of the bike and measured from the wheels. The chain seems to sit better in the sprocket teeth this way.
I think I know the way you are talking but - more detail please.
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Bad news foccers, 17 tooth doesn't fit :'( chain just not quite long enough. I'll contact JT at some point and see if I can get extra links for the chain.
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i have a feeling if you go 17 it will be a remeasure and longer chain so your stuck with it once riveted or throwing money away
i think we are at 110 links standard
i think someone already foresaw that one - ooh yeah me :lol :lol :lol
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funny you should mention that after i have spent an hour killing myself over that today
with the wheel in the air it was shaking around like mad but when under pressure no problem at all
without a laser alignment tool its hard to be sure but them lines are the best we have - they are made in a pretty accurate JIG but as time passes we lose alignment through bearing wear etc
I dont have the confidence in the marks on the swingarm. Last two times ive had to do it, ive set up two strings down the sides of the bike and measured from the wheels. The chain seems to sit better in the sprocket teeth this way.
I think I know the way you are talking but - more detail please.
Two string lines, one down each side of the bike, tied around the rear wheel so that the strings just kiss the front and rear edges of the tyre, with bike on centre stand. Strings taut and fastened to something to hold them taut beyond the front wheel. Use eyesight to align front and rear tyers as near central as you can. Use the rear wheel adjusters to align rear with front, might sound complicated but its a doddle, there is only one point at which the measurement from the strings to the tyre edge of each tyre is equal. Note front and rear measurements will not be the same due to tyre size difference. Take note of chain tension while adjusting. Hope that helps. Im sure others swear by other methods, but this is the method ill use and will continue to use until I come across a more accurate way of doing it, so there :moon
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Bad news foccers, 17 tooth doesn't fit :'( chain just not quite long enough. I'll contact JT at some point and see if I can get extra links for the chain.
The other option, elongate the slots on the swingarm ;)
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Bad news foccers, 17 tooth doesn't fit :'( chain just not quite long enough. I'll contact JT at some point and see if I can get extra links for the chain.
The other option, elongate the slots on the swingarm ;)
Ah cool didn't think of that, don't suppose it really matters where the brake caliber is in relation to the disc. As soon as I've finished cleaning petrol off my kitchen floor from washing out my forks I'll get the angle grinder out and cut out an inch from either side :lol
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Bad news foccers, 17 tooth doesn't fit :'( chain just not quite long enough. I'll contact JT at some point and see if I can get extra links for the chain.
The other option, elongate the slots on the swingarm ;)
Ah cool didn't think of that, don't suppose it really matters where the brake caliber is in relation to the disc. As soon as I've finished cleaning petrol off my kitchen floor from washing out my forks I'll get the angle grinder out and cut out an inch from either side :lol
STOP - think what your doing first bloody hell i dont know if your joking or not so i will put this anyway
you will hit your cross brace on the swingarm you will get so close it will at least be rubbing
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Bad news foccers, 17 tooth doesn't fit :'( chain just not quite long enough. I'll contact JT at some point and see if I can get extra links for the chain.
The other option, elongate the slots on the swingarm ;)
Ah cool didn't think of that, don't suppose it really matters where the brake caliber is in relation to the disc. As soon as I've finished cleaning petrol off my kitchen floor from washing out my forks I'll get the angle grinder out and cut out an inch from either side :lol
STOP - think what your doing first bloody hell i dont know if your joking or not so i will put this anyway
you will hit your cross brace on the swingarm you will get so close it will at least be rubbing
Oh shit I wish I read that ten minutes ago! Anyone know if it's possible to weld some sheet metal or something back on to the swing arm?
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its ally so would need tig welded
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It's alright, I'm only joking :rollin :rollin :rollin
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ooh thank god for that
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Rather than gong up 2 teeth on the front, I usually go 1 tooth up on the front and 2 teeth down on the back - pretty much the same overall ratio change, but it also means the standard chain length is perfect.
I'm not a fan of adding just a couple of links - no reason other than my own mental issues of 2 home done links in the one chain
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Rather than gong up 2 teeth on the front, I usually go 1 tooth up on the front and 2 teeth down on the back - pretty much the same overall ratio change, but it also means the standard chain length is perfect.
I'm not a fan of adding just a couple of links - no reason other than my own mental issues of 2 home done links in the one chain
yep the correct way is to do that that, i think the idea here is a quick switch (15 mins to switch and adjust for front sprocket)
im not doing a full maths spreadsheet on this (i said that last time lol)
i have a feeling not everyone here has a paddock stand to do full switches so its just easier
and also its £5 for a front sprocket and much more for a rear so quick switch is worthy of a trial run
-- if we dont test run it we dont know ----
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Rather than gong up 2 teeth on the front, I usually go 1 tooth up on the front and 2 teeth down on the back - pretty much the same overall ratio change, but it also means the standard chain length is perfect.
I'm not a fan of adding just a couple of links - no reason other than my own mental issues of 2 home done links in the one chain
yep the correct way is to do that that, i think the idea here is a quick switch (15 mins to switch and adjust for front sprocket)
im not doing a full maths spreadsheet on this (i said that last time lol)
i have a feeling not everyone here has a paddock stand to do full switches so its just easier
and also its £5 for a front sprocket and much more for a rear so quick switch is worthy of a trial run
-- if we dont test run it we dont know ----
Whilst you are on the maths there is also another factor in that certain combo's of teath will create a situation where the same link will hit the same tooth over and over again. It was discussed on here a while back - have a search.
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Rather than gong up 2 teeth on the front, I usually go 1 tooth up on the front and 2 teeth down on the back - pretty much the same overall ratio change, but it also means the standard chain length is perfect.
I'm not a fan of adding just a couple of links - no reason other than my own mental issues of 2 home done links in the one chain
yep the correct way is to do that that, i think the idea here is a quick switch (15 mins to switch and adjust for front sprocket)
im not doing a full maths spreadsheet on this (i said that last time lol)
i have a feeling not everyone here has a paddock stand to do full switches so its just easier
and also its £5 for a front sprocket and much more for a rear so quick switch is worthy of a trial run
-- if we dont test run it we dont know ----
Whilst you are on the maths there is also another factor in that certain combo's of teath will create a situation where the same link will hit the same tooth over and over again. It was discussed on here a while back - have a search.
I can see the logic, but in over 40 years of making this change on all of my in-line 4's, I've never had a sprocket or chain wear/fail early. In fact, I've generally changed my chains and sprockets due to my "impression" of mileage & timescale, rather than anything actually being worn-out (prevention being the best way to avoid problems).
Having said that, my FJ 1200's have both run well over 20k mikes on each chain and sprocket set, as did my Aprilia RSV. I changed the Fazer 1000 originals at 17k miles just because I wanted to alter the gearing, not because they were worn out.
Maybe I'm just lucky !
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Rather than gong up 2 teeth on the front, I usually go 1 tooth up on the front and 2 teeth down on the back - pretty much the same overall ratio change, but it also means the standard chain length is perfect.
I'm not a fan of adding just a couple of links - no reason other than my own mental issues of 2 home done links in the one chain
yep the correct way is to do that that, i think the idea here is a quick switch (15 mins to switch and adjust for front sprocket)
im not doing a full maths spreadsheet on this (i said that last time lol)
i have a feeling not everyone here has a paddock stand to do full switches so its just easier
and also its £5 for a front sprocket and much more for a rear so quick switch is worthy of a trial run
-- if we dont test run it we dont know ----
Whilst you are on the maths there is also another factor in that certain combo's of teath will create a situation where the same link will hit the same tooth over and over again. It was discussed on here a while back - have a search.
I can see the logic, but in over 40 years of making this change on all of my in-line 4's, I've never had a sprocket or chain wear/fail early. In fact, I've generally changed my chains and sprockets due to my "impression" of mileage & timescale, rather than anything actually being worn-out (prevention being the best way to avoid problems).
Having said that, my FJ 1200's have both run well over 20k mikes on each chain and sprocket set, as did my Aprilia RSV. I changed the Fazer 1000 originals at 17k miles just because I wanted to alter the gearing, not because they were worn out.
Maybe I'm just lucky !
As I recall your combo was actually the optimum sweet spot ratio to avoid any same link -tooth wear
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Hope that fits with the chain on, in the space between the sprocket and clutch pushrod :eek a 16t runs it close