Post by: MFD on 22 March 2018, 02:29:22 pm
It looks like some kind of plastic or resin was moulded around the sprocket, going out so far that the remaining parts touch the chain side plates. What weirdness have I stumbled onto?
I've also got the old 9mm thick nut, which I've read should be upgraded to a 12mm thick one, but there's only ~1mm of thread exposed on the end of the output shaft. Do I need to change more than just the nut and locktab?
Thanks
Post by: bandit on 22 March 2018, 03:24:31 pm
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/fazerowners/worn-front-sprocket-t30268.html (https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/fazerowners/worn-front-sprocket-t30268.html)
I would replace sprocket & fit the new 12mm nut & locking washer,
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer/98-99/picture/front_sprocket_retaining_nut_kit_oem/ (http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer/98-99/picture/front_sprocket_retaining_nut_kit_oem/)
If you won't the same type sprocket with the damping,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-Ognibene-15T-Silent-Front-Sprocket-STD-Size/192224937034?hash=item2cc17fc44a:g:eZwAAOSwaWhZzr6B (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-Ognibene-15T-Silent-Front-Sprocket-STD-Size/192224937034?hash=item2cc17fc44a:g:eZwAAOSwaWhZzr6B)
Post by: fazersharp on 22 March 2018, 05:57:33 pm
(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=22264.0;attach=28832;image)
And the 9mm nut
(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1402.0;attach=28813;image)
Post by: fazersharp on 22 March 2018, 06:00:03 pm
Post by: MFD on 24 March 2018, 04:15:17 pm
bandit - Do you suggest replacing the sprocket just because the nylon has broken up? I see no reason not to do it at the same time, but if I change the front sprocket I'll be tempted to do the chain at the same time, then the rear sprocket too (both worn, but not enough that I'd normally replace them yet)...
As for nylon vs. plain steel sprocket, does the nylon ring make much of a difference? I'm guessing it only has an impact when switching between acceleration and overrun since the teeth would keep the chain loaded sideways the rest of the time?
Post by: fazersharp on 24 March 2018, 05:04:43 pm
Post by: limax2 on 24 March 2018, 09:17:02 pm
Original sprocket on drawing is 8.5mm thick.
Post by: Disorderlypunk on 24 March 2018, 11:39:57 pm
would a 12mm nut with a 3mm gap be even better?
ok that extra 1mm wont be on a thread but would reduce torsional stress/flex
yes i already know the reduction would be minimal but as tesco says 'every little helps'
great drawing by the way - great to see stuff like that when its not coming from a design aspect but more a 'what is there' aspect
Post by: darrsi on 25 March 2018, 12:26:35 am
is it just me that see's a better compromise between the two ?
would a 12mm nut with a 3mm gap be even better?
ok that extra 1mm wont be on a thread but would reduce torsional stress/flex
yes i already know the reduction would be minimal but as tesco says 'every little helps'
great drawing by the way - great to see stuff like that when its not coming from a design aspect but more a 'what is there' aspect
With threadlock it's just a case of "every little helps".
Not a definite cure, but most certainly an advantage to prevent a possible discrepancy.
It doesn't affect every bike, but for peace of mind it's worth doing.
Post by: bandit on 25 March 2018, 08:21:00 am
Thanks for the replies, that clears that mystery up.
bandit - Do you suggest replacing the sprocket just because the nylon has broken up? I see no reason not to do it at the same time, but if I change the front sprocket I'll be tempted to do the chain at the same time, then the rear sprocket too (both worn, but not enough that I'd normally replace them yet)...
As for nylon vs. plain steel sprocket, does the nylon ring make much of a difference? I'm guessing it only has an impact when switching between acceleration and overrun since the teeth would keep the chain loaded sideways the rest of the time?
You can just replace the front sprocket on it's own no reason to do chain/rear sprocket at the same time, I would as you are going to fit a new locking washer/nut job done,but you could leave the old one on just make sure there are no nylon bits that are loose.
As for nylon or not nylon I don't know, have heard that with is quieter but looking at your pick of your sprocket you tell me. :) :)
Post by: MFD on 25 March 2018, 06:17:57 pm
Stay tuned for it somehow rattling like a set of tracks.
Post by: limax2 on 26 March 2018, 09:03:34 pm
I was surprised to find it had the sound damping stuff on it, although softer than on a genuine Yamaha sprocket. More like fairly hard rubber than the hard plastic feel of the original sprocket.
Also not a complete circle on one side and it appears to be bonded on rather than moulded through holes as the original.
Post by: bandit on 26 March 2018, 09:16:21 pm
Post by: Disorderlypunk on 26 March 2018, 09:56:41 pm
Post by: fazersharp on 26 March 2018, 09:58:32 pm
Very interested to hear your opinion on this sprocket limax2, whether it is as good as the original one noise wise. :)I wonder how long the rubber would last until it has worn down a little and not doing anything - like the plastic one.
Has anyone had any experience in any other make of bike that has this sort of sprocket fitted, the 1st Fazer 600s also had a noise dampening plate on the inside of the sprocket cover - could it be that for whatever reason they deemed the FZS noisy in that area.
Post by: fazersharp on 26 March 2018, 10:01:23 pm
fitting the locking washer is gonna be a bugger with that rubber sitting in the wayIf you look at the rubber ring and compare it with my picture its about the same size so the unbent washer should fit
Post by: Disorderlypunk on 26 March 2018, 10:39:15 pm
the new one looks much steeper
Post by: fazersharp on 26 March 2018, 10:57:10 pm
ooh it fitting wont be a problem - but you have to be able to get a screwdriver in to bend up the tabs - original looks like its tapered at about 45degsAh I see. It may actually make it easier to get good leverage on that rubber sticking up
the new one looks much steeper
Post by: tommyardin on 26 March 2018, 11:14:21 pm
Very interested to hear your opinion on this sprocket limax2, whether it is as good as the original one noise wise. :)I wonder how long the rubber would last until it has worn down a little and not doing anything - like the plastic one.
Has anyone had any experience in any other make of bike that has this sort of sprocket fitted, the 1st Fazer 600s also had a noise dampening plate on the inside of the sprocket cover - could it be that for whatever reason they deemed the FZS noisy in that area.
That is right Sharpie the later Fazers did not have that metal sound damping plate inside the sprocket cover the mounting posts are the for it and drilled but just not threaded for the mounting bolts
Post by: limax2 on 26 March 2018, 11:34:34 pm
Very interested to hear your opinion on this sprocket limax2, whether it is as good as the original one noise wise. :)I can’t say I’ve ever heard the chain while riding so yes it will be very interesting and a surprise if I notice any difference. I will be keeping an eye on that rubber stuff to see if it stays in place!
Post by: limax2 on 26 March 2018, 11:40:30 pm
ooh it fitting wont be a problem - but you have to be able to get a screwdriver in to bend up the tabs - original looks like its tapered at about 45degsI wonder if that is why there are two gaps in the rubber on one side of the sprocket. I can’t think of any other reason for the gaps.
the new one looks much steeper
Post by: Disorderlypunk on 27 March 2018, 12:00:47 am
(except on the mrs punks scratchword scratchcard, if it gave us a S or a T at the end we would have been rolling in £300,000 that was designed bad luck)
Post by: bandit on 27 March 2018, 05:00:58 pm
ooh it fitting wont be a problem - but you have to be able to get a screwdriver in to bend up the tabs - original looks like its tapered at about 45degsI wonder if that is why there are two gaps in the rubber on one side of the sprocket. I can’t think of any other reason for the gaps.
the new one looks much steeper
It probably doesn't matter which way round the sprocket goes on but pics I have seen show the full circle of rubber faces you on the nut side & fitting the locking washer & bending the tabs to lock the nut is no problem as a lot of Japanese bikes use the washer design & fit shock type sprockets as std Bandits 600cc/1200cc for instance. :)
Post by: fazersharp on 01 May 2019, 08:58:56 pm
Then( I think ) if your bike fitting is via two bolts then you would fit with the two dough nut halves facing you as there is then enough room for a bolt head and get a socket over it. But the tab washer will not fit - or at least our tab washers for our bikes, any way why would you need one with two bolts holding it.
So for our use I think that is does not matter which way it fits.
Also as you can see the tab is half bent ready the get something under it so although it is very close to the rubber you can still get under it.
What do every one else think.
EDIT ---You know what - I don't it is actually counter sunk after all
Post by: unfazed on 01 May 2019, 09:51:00 pm
Post by: fazersharp on 02 May 2019, 12:12:02 am
Cut out is usually to the outside.Why so ?
Post by: Fazerider on 02 May 2019, 09:07:54 am
It makes it easier to bend the tabs of the lock washer up.Cut out is usually to the outside.Why so ?
Also, some bikes use a sturdy locking plate which bolts to the two threaded holes in the sprocket.
Post by: unfazed on 02 May 2019, 09:54:03 am
Post by: fazersharp on 02 May 2019, 10:23:45 am
I will find out when I take off the old orange OEM one but did that also have the extra dampening on the other sideHere my old in place(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=25205.0;attach=35136;image)