Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: dilboy on 20 November 2017, 09:59:35 am
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Hi all[/size]First I need a new rear brake discs on the advice of my mot Any recommendations,up to £80 is my limit How easy is it to do yourself
Cheers
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Hi all
First I need a new rear brake discs on the advice of my mot Any recommendations,up to £80 is my limit How easy is it to do yourself
Cheers
I've had 2nd hand ones and a new OEM in the past… the real difficulty is removal of the old one.
The screws corrode and the threadlock cures until it's up to full superglue strength. They are almost impossible to extract without them shearing. I've found that welding a bar to the head dumps enough heat in and gives the leverage needed to undo them, but the screws are obviously not reusable after that. So budget for some replacement screws and maybe some mechanics time if you don't have the equipment yourself.
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if the wheel isnt off yet hit the bolts with some plus gas every day for a few days while your waiting for the new disc
if you aint got a welder but have a blowtorch get some heat on those bolts then hit them with some plus gas /wd40 / thin oil and let them cool
and give them a good whack with a hammer to shock them (every little helps)
there is also the candle wax trick but hardly anyone has candles anymore
then its time to get out the shortest socket you have and a breaker bar - those fuckers are tighter than a ducks arse but not as waterproof
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if the wheel isnt off yet hit the bolts with some plus gas every day for a few days while your waiting for the new disc
if you aint got a welder but have a blowtorch get some heat on those bolts then hit them with some plus gas /wd40 / thin oil and let them cool
and give them a good whack with a hammer to shock them (every little helps)
there is also the candle wax trick but hardly anyone has candles anymore
then its time to get out the shortest socket you have and a breaker bar - those fuckers are tighter than a ducks arse but not as waterproof
I wouldn't really do this if the bike's still being used, otherwise it's all gonna get rather dangerous with oil on the disc and pads!
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I've gotta change my rear disc and tyre at the weekend, I'm not looking forward to it at all to be honest, as the last time resulted in a new wheel when the only bolt that hinted at budging snapped in half, flush with the wheel hub. :'(
I have a feeling that it may have been the original disc though so there would've been plenty of thread lock on the bolts.
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I've not long replaced mine it's not a foccin pleasant job, lots of heat required and lots of swearing. I ended up snapping one and had to have it drilled out with a carbide tool.
You'll need to keep heat on the wheel at the bottom of the thread bosses to melt the threadlock before the bolts will budge. Re-chasing the threads with a tap also helps as you can easily destroy the threadforms when removing the old bolts. Don't forget to use threadlock when fitting the new bolts.
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if the wheel isnt off yet hit the bolts with some plus gas every day for a few days while your waiting for the new disc
if you aint got a welder but have a blowtorch get some heat on those bolts then hit them with some plus gas /wd40 / thin oil and let them cool
and give them a good whack with a hammer to shock them (every little helps)
there is also the candle wax trick but hardly anyone has candles anymore
then its time to get out the shortest socket you have and a breaker bar - those fuckers are tighter than a ducks arse but not as waterproof
I wouldn't really do this if the bike's still being used, otherwise it's all gonna get rather dangerous with oil on the disc and pads!
The best place to squirt the Plusgas is to aim inside the hub where the open ends of the threaded holes are so it should be possible to keep it off the disc and pads. Spraying the heads of the screws won't get it where it's needed so it won't have much effect (other than on your braking, as you suggest).
I too need to get a disc off, Fortunately it's my spare wheel, but it's an original disc. I made one attempt earlier this year: liberal application of penetrating oil for weeks, warming the whole wheel over a gas ring until it was at 90º and then I attacked with the impact driver. Other than destroying the allen heads it achieved nothing. :'(
I'll use the welder method next time.
My preference is to use Copaslip rather than threadlock on reassembly!
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im not sure there is any threadlock in there (could be) the main problem we face is galvanic corrosion and it is a bastard.
its the same problem removing the bolts from the front mudguard which i ended up retapping larger after drilling them out
there are all sorts of tricks out there for stuck bolts from this corrosion but the problem is you cant really get to the threads to implement them
remember once it starts coming out to screw it back in a little every so often (seriously- it unbinds the crap from the threads)
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Hi all just thought i would mention that one of the foccer members managed to use a dremell or simalar
with a bendy attachment and a small wire brush to clean the offending area. takes a couple of hours but
well worth the time. against a new wheel sorry cant find the link hope this helps mogs.
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im not sure there is any threadlock in there (could be) the main problem we face is galvanic corrosion and it is a bastard.
its the same problem removing the bolts from the front mudguard which i ended up retapping larger after drilling them out
there are all sorts of tricks out there for stuck bolts from this corrosion but the problem is you cant really get to the threads to implement them
remember once it starts coming out to screw it back in a little every so often (seriously- it unbinds the crap from the threads)
There will definitely be threadlock if it's the original disc and bolts.
The last disc i put on i think i just used a dot of threadlock, but i have an impact driver and some spare bolts at the ready this time.
And i"ll be changing the disc before taking the wheel to my mechanic to get the tyre changed, so worst scenario he"ll get lumbered with it, at my expense though of course.
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The original bolts that hold the disc on are too long, they poke about 10 mm or so into the centre of the alloy hub, there the buggers sit gathering rust, shit and and all sorts or other electrolysis type corrosion (Steel Bolts in cast alloy not good) the ends of these bolts become engorged with this corrosion and as you force them out of the alloy hub they will bring a lot of the threads with the or even worse shear off.
I used a Dremel with a flexi drive about a foot long and with a small wire brush I managed to clean a lot of the crap off the threads, you can not reach it all but if you get 70% off it will stand you in good stead. lots and lots of Plus Gas release agent for a couple of day before you start (WD40 will not do it, it lubes a thread once its turning but will not help release it) give each of the dome headed bolts a good sharp crack with a hammer and drift (Remember the hub is Alloy) and if necessary a blow lamp on each bolt before you try undoing it.
As someone said earlier try rocking the bolt back and forward once its moving and gradually ease them out.
The stupid bolts that are holding the disc are made of cheddar cheese so make sure your allen key is in good nick or even a new one. cos once it slips your down to a hammer a small chisel to drift the bolt round.
I replace all my disc bolts with shallow headed stainless steel hex head bolts that were about 10mm shorter, I copper slipped the new bolts before they went in, don't use loctite no one has ever had one of those bolts come undone, in fact one one can usually undo the foccing things when they really try.
The bolts need to be shallow headed to allow them to pass through the outer edge of the caliper.
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You're not wrong about the cheese like bolts, i've found a few similar bolts or even small screws as well that are just stupidly feeble, bearing in mind they do a serious job.
I'll let you know how i get on at the weekend, i'm quietly hopeful but you just never know?
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i only mentioned wd40 (the devils semen) because unfortunately that seems to be the only lubrication some people tend to know about
wd40 your ignition barrel - NO NO NO (use carb cleaner then a graphite spray - never an oil) (try carb/brake cleaner first as a test next time)
wd40 your tight bolts - NO use a proper penetration spray
wd40 your wifes arse - NO NO NO be nice and use Another type of penetration lube
wd40 is great for some jobs dont get me wrong and i always have some but it is rarely the correct thing to use
we have a can in our rally cars tool box but rarely use it back at the garage is its primary roll is water displacement
can it penetrate YES - is it the best HELL NO
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I would never use slip on these bolts. The act of removing the bolts will damage the threads hence the need for a thread tap. I'ts very unlikely you will be able to re-tighten the bolts back up to torque without stripping the threads. The threadlock is used for a reason- to prevent loosening due to vibration. It is however your own personal decision.
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i only mentioned wd40 (the devils semen) because unfortunately that seems to be the only lubrication some people tend to know about
wd40 your ignition barrel - NO NO NO (use carb cleaner then a graphite spray - never an oil) (try carb/brake cleaner first as a test next time)
wd40 your tight bolts - NO use a proper penetration spray
wd40 your wifes arse - NO NO NO be nice and use Another type of penetration lube
wd40 is great for some jobs dfont get me wrong and i always have some but it is rarely the correct thing to use
we have a can in our rally cars tool box but rarely use it back at the garage is its primary roll is water displacement
can it penetrate YES - is it the best HELL NO
Yes yes yes for that job I find that little red straw is just perfect.
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Yeah, attempted this myself a couple of months ago. Completely rounded three of the bolts. Gave up in end, garage I took it to, gave a very long intake of breath too.... Got a new wheel for £25 - cheaper than labour mucking around with old seized disc and wheel. Personally - I'd just take it to a garage to begin with...
As for choice of disc, Brembo rear discs are about £80 - got mine from Demon Tweeks (https://www.awin1.com/cread.php?awinmid=6538&awinaffid=131839&clickref=&p=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.demon-tweeks.co.uk%2Fmotorcycle%2Fbrake-discs%2Fbike%2Fyamaha%2F2003%2Ffzs600-fazer%2Fbrembo-replacement-upgrade-disc-rear).
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Heat is your Friend when trying to undo the Disc bolts :thumbup
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Cheers for all the advice
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I measured the width of my disc earlier and it's still a bit over 4.5mm, the outer lip was 5.4mm so i think it was wider than average.
But looking at weather reports of "feeling like -4 deg" in the morning i've decided just to get the tyre changed tomorrow instead and leave the disc for a more pleasant day.
I need the tyre sorted this weekend as i'm off work, so the disc can wait for now as my mechanic's doing me a favour fitting me in, rather than it being a proper appointment.
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One bolt :'( :'( :'(
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The allen bolt head rounded off, so after a lot of swearing i cut a slot into it but it still wouldn't budge, even using an impact driver.
Mate saved the day again as he had a blow torch and the heat freed it enough to undo it.
Ran out of light so i'll put the new disc on tomorrow now.
Had an issue with my new PR4 tyre as well.
We reckon it may have been at the bottom of a pile of tyres which made it a bit narrow, so even with a ratchet strap my mechanic couldn't get any air into it.
Fortunately he happened to have another tyre there and he put that on for me instead, which was lucky.
In etween dropping it off and picking it back up i spent a couple of hours servicing and regreasing all of the brake calipers so i've had a productive day, albeit a lot longer than intended plus it was bloody freezing outside.
I've decided i'm not going to use threadlock this time, i'm gonna dip the bolts in engine oil then torque them up.
I might check them every few months anyway but i don't reckon they'll budge at all.
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I would advise against engine oil, as unlikely as it is there is a chance with it being a liquid that it could leak out and get onto the disc.
If you want to lubricate them I would suggest a high temperature soap based bearing grease or some anti squeal brake pad grease.
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The allen bolt head rounded off, so after a lot of swearing i cut a slot into it but it still wouldn't budge, even using an impact driver.
Mate saved the day again as he had a blow torch and the heat freed it enough to undo it.
Ran out of light so i'll put the new disc on tomorrow now.
Did you not read my post
Heat is your Friend when trying to undo the Disc bolts :thumbup
I would not use oil on the bolts either, clean the threads in the wheel and use blue thread lock, as you discovered heat will soften blue threadlock enough to allow you to safely undo the bolts. Is it worth the risk of the bolt loosening, getting caught in the caliper mount and locking the back wheel, I don't think so.
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I would advise against engine oil, as unlikely as it is there is a chance with it being a liquid that it could leak out and get onto the disc.
If you want to lubricate them I would suggest a high temperature soap based bearing grease or some anti squeal brake pad grease.
Brake pad grease is Copper Grease, that messes with torque settings, whereas oil doesn’t.
I’ll dip them in oil then wipe them with a rag, i just don’t want them going in bone dry.
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The allen bolt head rounded off, so after a lot of swearing i cut a slot into it but it still wouldn't budge, even using an impact driver.
Mate saved the day again as he had a blow torch and the heat freed it enough to undo it.
Ran out of light so i'll put the new disc on tomorrow now.
Did you not read my post
Heat is your Friend when trying to undo the Disc bolts :thumbup
I would not use oil on the bolts either, clean the threads in the wheel and use blue thread lock, as you discovered heat will soften blue threadlock enough to allow you to safely undo the bolts. Is it worth the risk of the bolt loosening, getting caught in the caliper mount and locking the back wheel, I don't think so.
Yeah, i know, i need to buy myself a blowtorch.
I just can’t imagine these bolts EVER coming loose once torqued up?
Think i only have 222 Loctite, but that should do the trick without causing too much grief.
I must’ve used that last time actually which is why the other 5 came free okay after a whack with the impact driver.
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The allen bolt head rounded off, so after a lot of swearing i cut a slot into it but it still wouldn't budge, even using an impact driver.
Mate saved the day again as he had a blow torch and the heat freed it enough to undo it.
Ran out of light so i'll put the new disc on tomorrow now.
Had an issue with my new PR4 tyre as well.
We reckon it may have been at the bottom of a pile of tyres which made it a bit narrow, so even with a ratchet strap my mechanic couldn't get any air into it.
Fortunately he happened to have another tyre there and he put that on for me instead, which was lucky.
In etween dropping it off and picking it back up i spent a couple of hours servicing and regreasing all of the brake calipers so i've had a productive day, albeit a lot longer than intended plus it was bloody freezing outside.
I've decided i'm not going to use threadlock this time, i'm gonna dip the bolts in engine oil then torque them up.
I might check them every few months anyway but i don't reckon they'll budge at all.
Sensible man.
But replace engine oil with copper slip or Red Rubber grease. I check all my bolts every few months, I don't crack them up tighter I just apply some pressure to them and it tells me if they are loose or not.
The only part of my bike I apply LocTite to is the front drive chain (Gearbox) sprocket, then I use to one that go rock hard LocTite 620.
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LOL! As said in another post a few days ago opinions are like arse holes everyone has one.
Best do your own thing that you are happy with, cos one person will say one thing and another something completely opposite.
Just keep a check on the bolts, if one did come loose it is unlikely to come out and lock the rear wheel, they are spinning at an incredible rate of revolutions and the fists bolt that touches the caliper will make such a din you will pull over to see what it is.
(Be like the old clothes peg and piece of plastic you had on your pushbike you had flicking against you spokes as a kid)
My guess would be that the bolt would only come undone a few turns before it touched the caliper and I'm sure all 5 or is it 6 will not all come loose at the same time.
Anyway good luck with whatever you decide to do Darrsi, your the man who makes the final decision, don't take any notice of anything I say as I am a suicide pilot. :eek
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LOL! As said in another post a few days ago opinions are like arse holes everyone has one.
Best do your own thing that you are happy with, cos one person will say one thing and another something completely opposite.
Just keep a check on the bolts, if one did come loose it is unlikely to come out and lock the rear wheel, they are spinning at an incredible rate of revolutions and the fists bolt that touches the caliper will make such a din you will pull over to see what it is.
(Be like the old clothes peg and piece of plastic you had on your pushbike you had flicking against you spokes as a kid)
My guess would be that the bolt would only come undone a few turns before it touched the caliper and I'm sure all 5 or is it 6 will not all come loose at the same time.
Anyway good luck with whatever you decide to do Darrsi, your the man who makes the final decision, don't take any notice of anything I say as I am a suicide pilot. :eek
I shredded my rear caliper pad pin using copper grease with a torque wrench, even though it was set at something daft like 10Nm.
Copper grease really fooks up torque readings, i've posted on here before about it, but the findings were that if engine oil is used instead then torque settings remain accurate.
I don't know anyone who's ever had a disc bolt come loose if they have been torqued correctly, i just can't see it happening, and as my bike's a commuter plus the fact i'm more pedantic than most at checking things then i'm very confident i would never have an issue.
Add to that i'm lucky if i can hit 40mph going to and from work then i reckon i really won't have any grief.
If i was racing or generally ride like a maniac then i would reassess, but FOR ME that's simply not a problem.
I'll dab a spot of Loctite on and be done with it, but from experience those bolts are a bastard to undo with brute force, so thinking that one may work itself loose just doesn't seem like reality to me.
I admit prevention is better than cure but in this case i just don't see a problem.
If shit happens i'll be the first to shout about it, but there is that chance i will be the first on here!
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I s'pose you really have to take in to consideration that when things go wrong the owner has to take responsibilty too.
We hear of things going bad, but if everything's torqued correctly for example then things should be fine.
I bet there's a lot of people on here that don't even own a torque wrench?
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Just took the bike out to try and scrub the tyre in a little bit while the roads are dry as it was so shiny and slippery i dread the thought of what it would be like in the wet.
It was worth all the effort though, a new tyre always feels great anyway and spending a few hours cleaning up and regreasing the calipers a couple of times a year works wonders in the long run.
Job's a good'un :)
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Sounds like you have it nailed :D
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If it makes you feel any better, I tried to do my front discs yesterday. 11 bolts fine. 1 bolt rounded out. Smacked in a slightly bigger imperial allen head socket and had a go with that, and it sheared the bolt - below the level of the wheel hub :'(
Attacked it with a drill, got the centre out and tried some bolt extracters. Got them to bite on the bolt, but it's stuck fast :'(
Drilled out out as far as I could without going into the threads, but still no joy. I've been out and bought a 6.8mm drill bit and an M8 tap to try as a last resort.
The PR4s are a toughy to fit. I've had 2 and neither wanted to seal the 'normal' way. The trick I used (borrowed from a fitter) is to fire a burst of un-restricted compressed air down the bead rather than through the valve. There's a proper tool to do it (Bead Cheater?), but that's expensive, so I just hooked up a piece of hose pipe to the compressor outlet and it worked just as well.
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If it makes you feel any better, I tried to do my front discs yesterday. 11 bolts fine. 1 bolt rounded out. Smacked in a slightly bigger imperial allen head socket and had a go with that, and it sheared the bolt - below the level of the wheel hub :'(
Attacked it with a drill, got the centre out and tried some bolt extracters. Got them to bite on the bolt, but it's stuck fast :'(
Drilled out out as far as I could without going into the threads, but still no joy. I've been out and bought a 6.8mm drill bit and an M8 tap to try as a last resort.
The PR4s are a toughy to fit. I've had 2 and neither wanted to seal the 'normal' way. The trick I used (borrowed from a fitter) is to fire a burst of un-restricted compressed air down the bead rather than through the valve. There's a proper tool to do it (Bead Cheater?), but that's expensive, so I just hooked up a piece of hose pipe to the compressor outlet and it worked just as well.
The bolt heads are so soft it's a joke, but I learned from before to make sure I have spares before even attempting to remove any.
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I bought the spares ahead of the job, but that's not the problem - It's being able to put it them in again.
Browsing ebay for spare wheels locally now...
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I bought the spares ahead of the job, but that's not the problem - It's being able to put it them in again.
Browsing ebay for spare wheels locally now...
I know it's not something most people have, like me for example, but putting a blowtorch on mine really worked wonders in a couple of minutes to soften the Loctite. If you have an extractor and you've already got it to bite then it may be worth giving it a go.
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A blow torch is a pretty cheap thing to buy. It's worth getting one to make the job a whole lot easier.
I wouldn't attempt to undo disc bolts without heating them up first.
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if i ever buy another blow torch i will buy the one with the piezo igniter cause sods law the moment you need it you wont find a lighter
-and when you turn to the backup matchsticks that have sat in the drawer for 3 years you realise they got damp and wont light
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Yep, and now I have stopped smoking the ciggies I don't carry a lighter around all the time. You can bet the one in the garage will go missing when someone borrows it to light their fags.
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Also check eBay for left hand drill bits the heat from drilling softens the threadlock and the left-handed turn can start to undo the bolt at the same time
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Too late now. The 6.8mm got the remains of the bolt out and I cleaned up the threads with a tap. All looked good until I tried to torque them and the thread gave way.
I'll have a look at threaded inserts next, but I'll have to get another wheel, as I need to be back on the road next week.
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Too late now. The 6.8mm got the remains of the bolt out and I cleaned up the threads with a tap. All looked good until I tried to torque them and the thread gave way.
I'll have a look at threaded inserts next, but I'll have to get another wheel, as I need to be back on the road next week.
Damn, what a nuisance! :'(
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wurth time serts job done they are about the best about only take a couple of hours to do them all
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:agree :thumbup
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just wondering if anyone has had success using a manual impact driver on these
i.e the one you hit with a hammer not the 'Buzz gun'
as it is a hammer thump and a turn in one where a buzz gun is more just rotational whacks?
just a thought
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just wondering if anyone has had success using a manual impact driver on these
i.e the one you hit with a hammer not the 'Buzz gun'
as it is a hammer thump and a turn in one where a buzz gun is more just rotational whacks?
just a thought
That's what I was initially using for my rear disc on Saturday. Would've worked a lot easier after a bit of heat, even though 5 out of 6 worked straight off.
Was worried a little bit though because it was so cold outside I was scared of cracking the wheel hub.
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its another one of those tools i have been meaning to buy for ages but when i need one i find another way (cant wait for delivery)
and then i forget about buying one untill i next need one and the cycle repeats itself
getting 5 out of six easily out definatly says its worth having one for that job though considering the problems others are having
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its another one of those tools i have been meaning to buy for ages but when i need one i find another way (cant wait for delivery)
and then i forget about buying one untill i next need one and the cycle repeats itself
getting 5 out of six easily out definatly says its worth having one for that job though considering the problems others are having
I've only put a small dot of Loctite around 4 threads from the top of the head this time which should spread when tightening to cover them all, but if I heat them next time and use the impact driver I won't accept anything but instant success on all 6 bolts. :lol
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Impact drivers can definitely get you out of here shit. The trick in my experience is to use it first, once any button head Allen bolt starts to get rounded they are always a bit of a game. Sometime you can knock a Torx bit in instead if it rounds.
Never done the Fazer disc bolts but had a game on other bikes over the years. Luckily no defeats though 😀
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Impact drivers can definitely get you out of here shit. The trick in my experience is to use it first, once any button head Allen bolt starts to get rounded they are always a bit of a game. Sometime you can knock a Torx bit in instead if it rounds.
Never done the Fazer disc bolts but had a game on other bikes over the years. Luckily no defeats though 😀
I just don't see why they have to use allen head bolts made from marshmallows though.
Why not use hex bolt heads instead, then when removal time comes just use a 6 sided socket, which impact sockets are anyway, and it should make life much less stressful.
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As an engineer I would agree, practical functional and future proof but button heads are considered more aesthetically pleasing.
If practicality was a consideration everything would be Stainless and bike would be a lot more expensive.
It goes together quick, looks pretty and the components are cheap. One it's our of warranty it's your problem.
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Stainless steel is a lot cheaper than it used to be and the additional cost these days would be only 1p or 2p a bolt. Additional cost for a new bike would be around £10.
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Stainless Steel is a great product for sure, but alas it has it's own set of problems to, I sail and all the metal fittings on the yacht are stainless or brass because of salt water corrosion.
Turnbuckles on mast rigging on our boat are stainless steel and ideally should be taken off every 6 months or so to help stop 'Galling' (Please see link below)
The magic Red Rubber Grease is the yachtsman's friend, the other friend is patience, don't be in a hurry, now this might sound silly but bear with me, spinning a nut fast down a stainless steel thread can generate incredibly high temperatures just at the apex points of both the thread, this high temperature is lost very quickly but is instantly regenerated by the next revolution of the nut or fastener and on the process goes eventually welding the nut to the bolt (or Turnbuckles in my case).
On the boat I use waterproof grease on the thread (Red Rubber) and slowly tighten the parts up (don't spin the nut down the thread at high speed)
Now you might be thinking tommy is yet again talking poo, the same process can take place on other metals aluminium being one of them, a form of Galling is often what will strip the threads out of your rear wheel hub when changing your rear disc.
Take a look at the link it makes good reading, that exact link changed my understanding on contact friction and galling weld.
Now I wonder why I am so opposed to LocTite on threads that go into alloy, as if they did not have enough struggles with out that being added to the frame.
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Galling.pdf (https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Galling.pdf)
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That's an interesting read. It makes me think that perhaps I should ditch the air wratchet (not impact driver) when rebuilding and stick to hand tools.
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As an engineer I would agree, practical functional and future proof but button heads are considered more aesthetically pleasing.
If practicality was a consideration everything would be Stainless and bike would be a lot more expensive.
It goes together quick, looks pretty and the components are cheap. One it's our of warranty it's your problem.
Disc i just put on has a circular area machined into the disc where the allen head bolt heads sit perfectly inside them, so a hex head bolt wouldn’t work with this particular one, but i’d imagine most other discs are just a flat sheet of metal so it would work okay.
I’ll definitely do some research next time and see what’s about.
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As an engineer I would agree, practical functional and future proof but button heads are considered more aesthetically pleasing.
If practicality was a consideration everything would be Stainless and bike would be a lot more expensive.
It goes together quick, looks pretty and the components are cheap. One it's our of warranty it's your problem.
Disc i just put on has a circular area machined into the disc where the allen head bolt heads sit perfectly inside them, so a hex head bolt wouldn’t work with this particular one, but i’d imagine most other discs are just a flat sheet of metal so it would work okay.
I’ll definitely do some research next time and see what’s about.
I had the same darrsi, but unfortunately the countersunk recess was smaller than the size of the fazer button head bolts. I had to turn the heads down on the bolts to 15 mm, an easy fix.
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wurth time serts job done they are about the best about only take a couple of hours to do them all
I looked at those, then went and bought a cheaper alternative (Silverline threaded inserts from Amazon).
Was a piece of cake to fit and has done the job really well. I was able to drill, tap, fit the insert, fit the disc and then remove and replace the wheel on the bike in about 45mins. :D
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That's an interesting read. It makes me think that perhaps I should ditch the air wratchet (not impact driver) when rebuilding and stick to hand tools.
best thing i have read in ages - when dismantling i tend to use a buzz gun for most stuff as it is faster but when reassembling i might use a buzz to get things 95% done (cam covers mainly) then i switch to hand tools just so i can feel everythings tightness then pull out the trusty torque wrench