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Messages - butthead
27
« on: 26 February 2021, 09:44:54 am »
just checked the vin /chassis number on the frame and V5 match, no colour listed as to frame colour on the V5 as you thought only the main bike colour , yes the colour fun mystery begins , i have my suspicion that blue met cocktail and deep purplish blue are one and the same. i can find various sources of yamaha bike paint in touch up , aerosol or mixed paint ready for a gun , if only i coud be certain of which effin blue it actually is !  [size=78%] [/size]
28
« on: 25 February 2021, 05:29:40 pm »
The model is 050 the colour code is C Metallic Blue. 
[/qwell , it looks on the face of it that there is more than one metalic blue by verbal description but might have the same paint code meaning it is the same colour blue.[/size]so on the website steves zone with the year and model its refered to as power blue ? thats a new one, which i cant find a paint that matches that description?http://www.steveszone.co.uk/bike/bike_fazers.shtml#:~:text=In%201999%20the%20Yamaha%20FZS600,Silver%20were%20as%20featured%20here.I emailed a motorbike paint supplier today with pictures and details of my bike who replied , yes thats BMC , (a.ka.) blue metallic cocktail, which has the same 0564 paint code as deep purplish metallic !confused ? you will be ... im actually wondering if ,despite all different descriptions of blue , they are infact all the same blue ?uote]
29
« on: 25 February 2021, 05:08:08 pm »
yes they say you do get a squashy feel out of rubber lines compared to braided when i looked that up today and i think thats likely the reason for how it feels .
as the brakes before the fluid change were good but the lever was squashy as it still is post fluid change stayed the same , i cant for obvious reasons ride it to double check actual braking performance yet.
30
« on: 25 February 2021, 05:02:48 pm »
Check out www.rsbikepaint.com/ for good matches (but don't buy their primer or lacquer, you can get cheaper but just as good versions elsewhere!)
well , it looks on the face of it that there is more than one metalic blue by verbal description but might have the same paint code meaning it is the same colour blue. so on the website steves zone with the year and model its refered to as power blue ? thats a new one, which i cant find a paint that matches that description? http://www.steveszone.co.uk/bike/bike_fazers.shtml#:~:text=In%201999%20the%20Yamaha%20FZS600,Silver%20were%20as%20featured%20here.I emailed a motorbike paint supplier today with pictures and details of my bike who replied , yes thats BMC , (a.ka.) blue metallic cocktail, which has the same 0564 paint code as deep purplish metallic ! confused ? you will be ... im actually wondering if ,despite all different descriptions of blue , they are infact all the same blue ?
31
« on: 24 February 2021, 02:53:45 pm »
bikes on the OEM rubber hoses 2001!
the braking performance (when i last rode it ) wasnt bad, just that the lever doesnt feel like - small free movement then very firm , its a small free movement then a squeezable rest of brake only just full stop short of the bar. i changed the fluid yesterday but not improved the feel of the lever, the fluid was brand new unopened and not shaken deliberatley by me , im guessing its best to open the container an let it settle an hour before use though going back to gnashers point ? certainly didnt shake it intentionally.
32
« on: 24 February 2021, 10:01:24 am »
Providing the system is all serviceable. You've got air in the system, plain and simple. I see a lot of this sort of thing owners utterly frustrated after DIY of their brake system. The standard set up doesn't help either, a lot of right angles. These help to create and trap micro bubbles, tying back the lever will help but only to a point.
im guessing you mean in the T piece ? im sure you are right , air somewhere !
33
« on: 24 February 2021, 09:55:52 am »
Hi Guys, so im trying to pin down the colour of my fz6 S2, 2009 plate , im pretty sure its 'dull purplish blue' but i cant find a colour code beyond on a white sticker , but i think the code listed under the seat 4S8F -050, refers to the silver chasis colour not the bike colour itself, i cant see another sticker , can anyone help with either the code and where to find it and any clues to the colour description
34
« on: 23 February 2021, 09:15:04 pm »
Pump the lever a few times to build up the pressure, then tie it back to the throttle grip and leave it overnight. See what it’s like after that. Might not work, but worth a try.
yep i have done that .
35
« on: 23 February 2021, 09:14:11 pm »
no not jerky or crunchy jus ta lever that doesnt get firmer the more you pull , its the same resistance fairly much and you can almost get the lever back to the bar. its all fresh fluid in there now
36
« on: 23 February 2021, 05:45:07 pm »
Hi all ,
managed to drop the bike in the garage today just moving it around , clumbsy f*** so it sheared off the mirror on the swivel pin adjuster casting. do you have to take the entire plastic instrument panel surround off to access the mirror bolts? or if you undo half as in the side you need to access, will the plastic give enough to get to the mirror bolts , anyone tried ?
TIA
37
« on: 23 February 2021, 05:38:54 pm »
i did a brake fluid flush today , i had noticed the lever was a bit too spongy in feel and although the brakes seem to work fine i put the spongy feel down to old fluid but after changing the fluid and been careful to watch for any air , couldnt say there was any improvement in how the lever felt, i was hoping it was less spongy and less movement in it. strangely though i noticed that my 09 fz6 s2 is pretty similar in feel to my fzs, i also have a triumph Bonneville and that lever is much harder feel and short movement before you cant move the lever anymore.
so im wondering if both my fz6 and fzs600 have a fairly similar feel to the brake lever , if that is a ' fazer thing' ?
obviously we cant ride atm , but would you say your fazer brake lever has more movement and squashy feel to it , or is it short movement and solid after ?
could be air , though i couldnt see that in the pipe ?
38
« on: 31 January 2021, 04:27:30 pm »
dont want to annoy anyone asking a topic thats probably been done to death before etc, cant see a specific sticky on fzs600 brake pads but if there is, please give me a link to it, im in the market for new pads all round so want to get feedback about best pads etc .
TIA
39
« on: 26 January 2021, 12:27:46 pm »
so an update on the nipples , good news , after watching a couple of tricks on you tube , one being to put a socket end on and then tap the socket a few times first to help loosen and another tip was to use either a drill shank or a nail shank ( cut down to suit ) i found an old busted drill bit that snugly fits the nipple hole to help strengthen the hollow before trying to undo , well along with spraying plus gas the night before and the above tricks , managed to successfully undo all nipples without any damage at all
after undoing i worked them back and forth plenty 1/8 turn on/off to exercise the nipple thread.
im now going to wait until the weather is dryer and warmer as brake fluid absorbs water easily and my garage is unheated and inclined to be damp , so now ive freed them up , ill wait a couple of months before renewing fluid but ill exercise the nipple threads once a month to keep them from locking up again.
well pleased ! cheers guys
40
« on: 26 January 2021, 09:31:15 am »
ok so we talking hair dryer or blow torch ? the caliper body is cast ally the nipple is steel , so the ally will expand first ? right , thereby loosening the grip ?
41
« on: 25 January 2021, 09:00:10 pm »
thanks for all the advice , today i went to see if the bleed nipples would crack easily , they dont seem at all willing , didnt want to apply any more force, theyre only something like 8 nm , so should be easy to undo. so its an age old problem, ive used some plus gas on the area in the hope that after a few days it might help to crack the nut. any other tips for this issue?
42
« on: 24 January 2021, 09:46:12 pm »
thanks gnasher , i did read or hear somewhere that the join or T is susceptible to getting air trapped within it , ill do the tapping on it during the change of fluid 
43
« on: 24 January 2021, 12:10:19 pm »
ah great ! thanks just wanted to check that first, thank you
44
« on: 24 January 2021, 10:26:41 am »
Hi, i want to change my front and rear brake fluid , on the front ,as the bike has a T piece feeding the two front discs is there an order that you need to flush one side first ,before the other
? if so which side, orientated as if you were sat on the bike.
TIA
45
« on: 15 January 2021, 11:25:19 am »
lots of very useful tips thank you guys and as someone said you can use your bike for essential reasons , so to apply this to the maintenance aspect, since you can for example use a bike to do " a bit of shopping " for example, how much of a ride in terms of miles or duration is long enough to get everything up to temp and not too short to allow condensation etc?
I by choice usually ride for a minimum of 30 mins, when we are free to do so, but since im surrounded by supermarkets all less than 2 miles from me id have to be very creative and at the same time not in the spirit of the rules to get 30 min run. but is that necessary or would 15 mins be enough or too short?, the battery wont be re charged by the energy it took to start it at 15 mins but thats no issue for me personally as i can trickle charge mine, but what about the engine and oil etc what is a long enough duration for that to be enough maintained ?
46
« on: 13 January 2021, 04:14:16 pm »
most of us use bikes less during the winter and topically during the several lockdowns these past 12 months. lets start by saying i dont need my bikes (3) for anything other than pleasure , however even during the long winter , I pick a dry day and will give them a 30min ride to maintain usage year round during dec to march maybe once every 4 weeks until spring and from April - November use them all regularly anyway.
however there might be times , like now where you just cannot use them , unless it genuinely is your only form of transport, its feasible as we have seen before now than a lockdown can be 3 months or even more.
so how to maintain them for a period of lay off , where as in this instance , its pretty much illegal, apart from if it was your only form of transport.
do you just lay them up accept the situation and wait it out, or do you start them up every now and then ? I heard that running them up for short periods like 5-10 mins can cause condensation in the header pipes etc. is it ok to run them stationary for longer amounts of time until the cooling fan comes on , apart from the I.C.E nothing else moves and the oil pump and charging system are on a limited variance of rpm, and ideally you'd want the oil temp to get fully up to temp. then there's the brake calipers that need movement etc , how to achieve maintenance during a dormant period of time where the bike can not be ridden as designed to be used ?
a lot of bikes in showrooms get unridden until sold for many months sometimes a year , i think newish bikes cope better with that situation but older bikes i believe need to be ridden at least once a months to keep everything in shape.
what do you guys do , particularly in this lockdown when we cannot ride .
47
« on: 11 January 2021, 12:55:17 pm »
Hello butthead.
On my fzs600 foxeye 2002, I had Pazzo levers fitted, which had span adjusters on both brake and clutch levers, I never encountered any problems with clutch actuation. I also had these levers fitted to my fzs1000 with no problems.
I removed these levers when I sold the bike, so they should be in my garage somewhere. If you are interested I could dig them out and send details and photos of them.
have pm'd you though my model precedes yours 2001 box eye
48
« on: 11 January 2021, 11:53:53 am »
Hi Darsi, yep fair question and the answer is im a small bloke and my hands are smaller than average, my finger length therefore is shorter giving me this reach issue not terrible but made worse by thicker gloves worn in winter. so some dexterity is lost with thicker gloves and as the material is bulkier in the palm and fingers exacerbates the reach ( span issue )
my triumph bonneville has normal length levers is also cable clutch but has span adjusters both levers. so i wondered if you can get OEM length levers for the fazer but with span adjustment or if anyone has tried other lever options that could resolve the issue.
49
« on: 11 January 2021, 09:40:12 am »
hi i ve done a quick search to see if this topic has been covered before , couldn't see a match so forgive me if its been covered before ?
i have a cable operated clutch with the original levers, i struggle with winter gloves to grab the clutch lever in particular so some span adjusters would be useful. however with cable operated clutch the lever length is likely to be important to gain the leverage to operate the clutch properly?
its almost universal that span adjusters are for hydraulic clutches and are invariably shorter than OEM .
has anyone used shorter span adjusters and found they are either a problem or perhaps not ?
can anyone offer advice to the best span adjuster levers to resolve my issue ? are there any full length adjustable levers you know of ?
just to confirm its a 2001 fzs600.
TIA
50
« on: 18 August 2020, 10:02:59 am »
Hi all, i wanted to put some wider bars on my bike, i have allready put bar risers 1 up and 1 inch back on with std bars but want to fit some wider bars. i like the combined up and back and now wider.
my brother gave me some old wider bars to try and it all fits and feels good, exept the master cyclinder crashes in to the fairing preventing full lock. its a big old master block on the FZS and i thought id get full lock with a smaller master particularly one that has a remote reservoir hosed to the lever assy ( as my triumph does ) then id have far more mounting flexibility. however any replacement has to deliver same fluid displacement etc, so has anyone used a different master cyl lever on the fzs than the std one ? .
hoping to find something from a breaker but first need to find something with similar fluid pushing performance and with a small or remote master reservoir.
any thoughts ?
TIA
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