I think you need a new battery....


Whale

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,8536.0.html


Bits of my old one on this one!


Whale

Hi All, any help would be appreciated! My starter relay is making a rapid buzzing/clicking when I press the starter button, I thought at first it was the battery dead! So I bought an optimate 4 on impulse! Then I took the multi meter home from work and discovered I had over 12v on the battery! Bugger.......... does this mean the relay is buggered or a symptom of something else? Forgot to mention? The rev counter needle goes off on one after I release the starter, it was fine two weeks ago when I last rode it then yesterday, this! ps the battery is 2years old. Advice anyone??? Cheers, Tony

Have you got more than 12v when cranking the starter?


If not, (and I suspect you haven't) then get a new battery as yours is focced.


Whale

The top of the fork tubes (the cap actually...) should sit flush with the top yoke as standard..
 
Thats probably why your adjusters won't wind out any further.
 
Whale

Hmmm , I wonder if he will return to you in a months time for the Quick 8 minute exup valve service now that its functioning OK ? Sounds to me as there is probably a lot of Gen 1s out there bogging around out there with seized or semi seized valves ........ and if thats the case all the moving parts are well worn by now and all the Copper grease in the world aint going to replace that worn metal. Bin the Bitch.

1. I doubt if he will return in a month for a service of the Exup. I say that because we did it properly and that means it will not need attention until the next service interval and then it will need around 20 mins to put right for another interval. It should be a service item but is not on the Yamaha service schedule so often does not get attended to. We do choose to treat it as a service item as to not do so is just asking for trouble later.
 
2. I feel that your comments around seized and semi seized valves having well worn parts is, frankly, preposterous. How will a seized part wear? It is the friction between two badly lubricated moving parts that causes wear - once the valve is seized, the wear stops. Or am I being stupid here? The lack of wear on my now departed 100,000 miler would tend to support what I say.
 
Anyway, you clearly have your mind made up about the justification of your decision and no amount of logic, evidence and/or reason is going to change it.
 
I will now choose to no longer FEED THE TROLLS!
 
Whale

Here are thre of mine.
 
The Pan is just magic once you get used to the weight - ask the 2011 R1 rider I stuffed at Aberystwyth last year... Also great for my instructing.
 
The Tuono was just a magic bike ride but made way the K5 which was just astonishing once the suspension was sorted.
 
And now I have ZZR1400 but no pic (but I will get one!)

At the risk of straining at the gnat, I can only echo the above.
 
It is vital that the simple things are right before looking at other probs.
 
"When walking down the road and hearing hoofbeats expect to see horses when you turn and not zebras."
 
The tyres are not the best but should be fine if they are new (unless they are very old stock and dried out) and at the correct pressures.
 
At 6' 3" and 19 stone myself, I know that decent suspension on mine made a world of difference and the bike handled brilliantly. Yours should be capable of the same.
 
I would most certainly ditch the jack up kit as a matter of urgency, I am guessing you had the suspension built for your weight and riding style but did not say the bike was jacked up?
 
The jack up kit will make the rising rate ratio's alter and your carefully designed suspension will then not work to it's full potential. It would be like putting a good shock of the correct setting for you that you had on another bike on - the shock is "good" but not in that application.
 
We will get to the bottom of it......
 
Whale

Not beyond the realms of possibility that a previous owner has put oil in the header tank by mistake - it happens!
 
I am with Mike, drain and flush the cooling system and then see what develops. If oil reappears then further investigation will be needed, if not crack open a beer and say "Phew!".
 
Whale

PR2's also.
 
Not sure you will get 7k out of the rear though...... Or any rear for that matter.....
 
Whale

There are two coils serving two cylinders each.
 
If you have a coil fault, you will run on two.
 
If there is snow are riding, it will get where water alone wont.
 
Sounds like a wet lead as already stated.
 
Whale

We fit tyres at the shop and we often get chaps coming in with internet cheapies for us to fit to loose wheels.
 
8 times out of 10 we could have done them a cheaper deal - including the balance and tyre disposal. And they had to wait in for them to be delivered, drive down and then dispose of the old tyres on my home.....
 
We also usually charge more to fit a tyre we didn't supply cos we offset the (small) profit on the tyre against the labour rate. Most shops use their fitters to do tyres who are the same blokes you pay £50 an hour for to sort out your sticky Exup or such like - not like Kwik Fit who pay monkeys peanuts and make the money on volume.
 
To fit a pair of tyres on a Fazer "ride in ride out" is the best part of an hours work even with the proper tools...... We charge £40 rather than the £50.
 
Part worns are a decent price saver but postage cripples it most of the time.
 
It should be remembered that tyres DO go off on the shelf and a of of the cheapies have been hanging  around a while......
 
Life is too short in my opinion...........
 
Whale

The fade you desribe (extra lever travel) is caused by the force you are exerting from the master cylinder being disappated before it reaches the calipers.
 
This can be either the fluid "boiling" (which I think it is here) or the hoses flexing - especially if they are not braided ones.
 
The "boiling" is the water that the brake fluid absorbs (it does that naturally, hence the need to change it regularly) boiling through the heat being absorbed through the calipers from the hot discs and pads rather than the fluid itself boiling. The vapour generated is "compressable" where the fluid is not - hence the spongy feeling and the return to normal after a few seconds of cooling from the air passing. Change the fluid to avoid this, using a sealed container of new fluid.
 
If it is the latter, then bolt on a set of braided hoses and that cures it. The original hoses are supposed to be changed every two years anyway - no one ever does.....
 
I would do both actually!
 
The pads are not the issue - if they were "going away" you would get a "wooden" (firm lever but no real effect on retardation) feeling at the lever rather than the extra travel you describe.
 
Whale