Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: anutz on 01 May 2015, 08:34:38 pm
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I have been trying to clean my calliper pistons....
I don't know if I need to be concerned about the amount of light rust/gunk on some of them...
The brakes have always worked but there has been a binding issue ( slight ) since I got the bike ( 20,000 miles 2001 years, 5 owners...)
Have got some stuff off them, and have used a razor to carefully tease off some rust, but I cannot rotate them and I have read I should be able to...do not know if that's the case...
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/IMG_0114_zpsqsfuettl.jpg)
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Yes they should be able to turn as the are just cylinders in a tube but some rust may be on the actual calipers as there's some on the pistons in your pic.
What I'd do?
Clamp the brake pipe to stop fluid getting through, someone once told me a wee trick is to open the reservoir at the handlebars so it reduces pressure to, then I'd strip the whole caliper down completely, and using wet and dry, but really wet, sandpaper lightly go over all the pistons and the internal chambers, reassemble and that should give you the result you want.
I know you'll just love doing it now your not scared of your bike anymore, plus you'll also do the front ones after you do the rear lol
Oh meant to say, remember and dry them off before reassembly, some will say smear something on them to help slide, but personally I've only put very fine oil on a wee bit to help them slide in, nothing too heavy.
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Theres something very wrong with the skin on your hand, are you a replicant android
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I have been stuck on earth for a while - my space ships cylinder head needed putting back on after I snapped the heat exchangers studs :)
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If those pistons are pitted I would replace them & new seals, lube the new seals with a smear of clean brake fluid before fitting new pistons.
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I don't think they are pitted, just a build up of dust in places, I will try carefully remove it with my razor, but might have to do as advised above and take them out to get the properly clean with wet and dry - have some 2500 left over from the cylinder head polish I did so that should do I think - also some 1500 if needed....
main concern is looking at the prices of pistons, at least the seal kits are not a lot....but then it they stop me its worth every penny....
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and the internal chambers,
This is sometihng I would not do. Because the internal chambers are black anodized which gives protection against corrosion and wear.
Some month ago I rebuilt a set of calipers to upgrade the front brake of my TDM850.
After disassembly I cleand the pistons first very carefully with a triangular scraper and then with a polish. Afterwards they looked like new.
But they had been in a better condition as those in the picture above.
The caliper housings I cleaned in an ultrasonic bath.
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2mi2eyr.jpg)
On the next picture you can see anodized surface of the bores for the pistons and the guide areas for the brake pads.
If the surface in the bores is damaged I would look for a replacement.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2j1o2mw.jpg)
For use in the TDM I had to change the colour scheme a little bit :lol
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2vs3ecy.jpg)
Regards
Guenter
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ok im going to do the simple ( relatively speaking....) thing first - pop the pistons and seals out and clean the pistons...
As for the internal chambers I will post a picture on here of their condition and consider what to do if they need attention....
the manual says use an air gun to get the pistons out, how do people with out an air gun get them out?
ultrasonic baths, not got one of them.... :'(
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They don't look pitted, you should get away with a good clean I think :-)
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and the internal chambers,
This is sometihng I would not do. Because the internal chambers are black anodized which gives protection against corrosion and wear.
([url]http://i57.tinypic.com/2j1o2mw.jpg[/url])
Regards
Guenter
Fair play Guenter, I've not stripped the fazer brakes so didn't know about the coating in the chambers, good shout mate.
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Anyone ever use red rubber grease around the seals
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Had never head of it till you mentioned it ....
http://redrubbergrease.com/ (http://redrubbergrease.com/)
Might have to buy a tub off this from some where....sounds like it is useful....
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Guy on this forum sells copper and another type of grease, think it is that stuff, go into the for sale section and have a look
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it does look good - has anyone actually used it as fazer# asked?
I read it is tricky to get the seals back in without some form of lubricant....
I have grease and copper grease but no red rubber grease....yet....
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Only use brake fluid on assembly that's all you should need, I have used red rubber grease on seals around pistons after they are assembled don't use any other grease & definitely not copper grease this will destroy the rubber, copper grease thinly on the backing face of the brake pads only.
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I read it is tricky to get the seals back in without some form of lubricant....
Don't you normally need some kind of lubricant to get it back in?
Ask the wife :rollin :rollin
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I always use ATE brake caliper grease for caliper and master cylinder rebuilts.
The Red Rubber Grease looks a little bit like the grease that comes with the Tourmax caliper sealing kits.
The Tourmax stuff has a little bit lighter colour.
Regards
Gunter
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Yep, I assemble the pistons with rubber grease every time, it makes life easier, and prevents the seals from 'grabbing' the piston as they dry out.
This 'grabbing' makes the piston retract further than normal, and needing you to pump the lever. A bit like having air in the system but a bit more dangerous.
Had this on two bikes so far, a calipers piston clean up with red rubber grease has solved it.
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I brought a tub of the stuff when I serviced and fitted HELL lines to mine and now I have the rest of the tub castrol red rubber grease which should last me until I am 568 years old
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([url]http://i61.tinypic.com/2vs3ecy.jpg[/url])
Love the look of the red spots, where did you get them? Are they the same size as the fzs?
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As you've removed calliper already make sure bleed nipple is done up get one of these (red plastic one)http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ball-Football-Needle-Adaptor-Valve-Inflator-Rugby-Vollybal-Adapter-Bike-Car-Pump-/271854882909?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f4bd0505d
Now this is the tricky bit & painful if you trap your fingers between the pistons, try to remove only one or two pistons at a time on one side of the calliper, the pistons must be held in except the one/ones you want to remove (not with your fingers you've been warned) now using the above type adaptor on a foot pump place the adaptor into the hole where the brake hose was attached & operate the pump this should push the piston or pistons out with a bang, don't be tempted to pull it out.
With them out clean bores remove & fit new seals apply smear of brake fluid to lips of seals & refit pistons squarely into bore push them right in then repeat sequence on the other pistons until all replaced.
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That's a fantastic hint there bandit, simple but absolutely brilliant :-D
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thanks guys for the input - will be off to find a footie pump adapter in the morning then set to work on both front callipers....
One last question and I take it this is a must - I MUST replace the seals...yes?
no re-use here...
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Love the look of the red spots, where did you get them? Are they the same size as the fzs?
Here from a wider view:
(http://i60.tinypic.com/30ngo5v.jpg)
FZS600, FZS1000, early R6, early R1, XJR1300, TDM900 and BT1100 have all the same type of calipers.
Yamaha does not allow to disassemble the caliper housings even if somtimes tools are offered for that.
So I did not change the spots I just painted the calipers with black and red caliper colour from Foliatec ;)
Regards
Guenter
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Mine would not turn but when still connected but off the disc being careful not to pop them out completely I squeezed the leaver then gave a good clean and used some red grease and then pushed them back in by hand by hand - in out in- out and then I could turn them by hand. I then disconnected old lines to fit new so never actually took pistons out, I do remember though it was a pain to get the bleed nipple to stop weeping, I cant remember if I brought a new one i the end
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Here from a wider view:
I can't see a pic
Yamaha does not allow to disassemble the caliper housings even if somtimes tools are offered for that.
I thought I read somewhere on here some had removed them, but I'm not certain.
So I did not change the spots I just painted the calipers with black an red caliper colour from Foliatec ;)
I'll look them up, so that's just caliper paint on the spots?
thanks
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Not sure my link worked for the image of adaptor anutz but if you look for a red plastic one that's it you normally get one with most air pumps these days, & yes you might get away with using old pistons but always replace the seals as they may be dislodged when ejecting the pistons & will leak fluid.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5X-Inflating-Needle-Pin-Pump-Air-Valve-Adapter-Sports-Football-Basketball-Soccer-/201329145148 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5X-Inflating-Needle-Pin-Pump-Air-Valve-Adapter-Sports-Football-Basketball-Soccer-/201329145148)
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I can't see a pic
Strange I can see it. And I loaded it up in the same way like the other pictures.
I just painted the spots and the housing in a glossy black. Both colours are a 2 component caliper paint.
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I see it now, I don't know why I couldn't before :-(
Nice paint job :-)
Really like the red and black, goes well together.
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Anyone ever use red rubber grease around the seals
Are you kidding me?
How is the Alzheimer's getting on anyway?
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I see it now, I don't know why I couldn't before :-(
Nice paint job :-)
Really like the red and black, goes well together.
You only see pictures when logged in.
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You only see pictures when logged in.
Yeah I know that but I was logged in and could see the other pics, don't know why it wouldn't show but it's showing now :-)
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Anyone ever use red rubber grease around the seals
Are you kidding me?
How is the Alzheimer's getting on anyway?
Whats up with that - its the proper stuff for the job init, I googled it and found that was the stuff to use, now I have got so much left in the tub I maigt start selling it off. When I was doing the brakes I could not find any little sachets so brought a tub
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Anyone ever use red rubber grease around the seals
Are you kidding me?
How is the Alzheimer's getting on anyway?
Whats up with that - its the proper stuff for the job init, I googled it and found that was the stuff to use, now I have got so much left in the tub I maigt start selling it off. When I was doing the brakes I could not find any little sachets so brought a tub
"Anyone ever use red rubber grease...."
Put "red rubber grease" in the search box and see what pops up.
I may have mentioned it a few times. :lol
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oh I seeeeee I thought that by altzheimers you were referring to me being old --- as in its old school stuff and no one bothers with it anymore. Gotcha :thumbup
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oh I seeeeee I thought that by altzheimers you were referring to me being old --- as in its old school stuff and no one bothers with it anymore. Gotcha :thumbup
You can't beat a bit of red rubber grease on pistons, it's good stuff. :)
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Look on ITV right now, i think they use red rubber grease as moisturiser. :lol
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Hi,
My rear was in a similar state. Popped out the pistons, cleaned first with scotchbrite. When cleaned, then polished with autosol (trick seen on youtube) then a final clean off with brake cleaner so no polish left on.
They then looked brand new.
Took out the seals and scraped the white crystal stuff you always get eventually. Red grease on piston hen slid back in, once bled the back brake can now actually be used without sticking on.
My advice would be to go for it, it will be a bit more tricky for the front, but just take the time it needs and be careful and your brakes will be good as new.
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thanks for the advice all - I need to get hold of an adapter like bandit showed so once I have that I will be able to crack on - my tensioner gasket arrived so today I will get the engine back in order anyway...
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Looking at new front seal sets on ebay...
this appears to cost 8.99 for 1 set....i.e. for one piston
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FZS-600-Fazer-5DMC-2001-Front-Left-Brake-Caliper-Full-Piston-Seal-Kit-/130918926987?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e7b604a8b (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FZS-600-Fazer-5DMC-2001-Front-Left-Brake-Caliper-Full-Piston-Seal-Kit-/130918926987?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e7b604a8b)
Yet this is 8.99 for 4?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Brake-Caliper-Seals-Set-Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-98-03-/200831498651?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ec27d799b (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Brake-Caliper-Seals-Set-Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-98-03-/200831498651?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ec27d799b)
Any ideas why they differ so much in price - they cannot be that different?
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Not got a clue but you'll need to read the descriptions as first only says for left hand side?? Does that mean the right hand side caliper is different??
And i thought you were doing the rear, is that different, call or email them to confirm your getting the correct ones I say :-)
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I used for my rebuilt this kit:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BREMSSATTEL-REPARATUR-YAMAHA-FZS600-Fazer-Bj-98-03-Brake-Caliper-Repair-set-/251431024761?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item3a8a74f879 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BREMSSATTEL-REPARATUR-YAMAHA-FZS600-Fazer-Bj-98-03-Brake-Caliper-Repair-set-/251431024761?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item3a8a74f879)
Best regrads
Guenter
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Doing them all Sinto....so just seeing the cost involved of seals
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Doing them all Sinto....so just seeing the cost involved of seals
Ahh, I should of known you'd not just do the rear lol
Its some price difference between your two and even the one Guenter posted.
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Its some price difference between your two and even the one Guenter posted.
The Tourmax kit is indeed more expensive but the quality is o.k. and it comes with a lubricant for assembly that nearly looks like the red rubber grease (the colour is a little bit lighter).
Best regards
Guenter
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nearly looks like the red rubber grease (the colour is a little bit lighter).
pink rubber
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And i thought you were doing the rear, is that different, call or email them to confirm your getting the correct ones I say :-)
Daft me, I just looked at your first pic and realised it's a front caliper duh@me
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indeed it is!
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/IMG_0119_zpsnbilkqap.jpg)
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Love the idea of the bucket there, is that to catch the tears of your bike as it's not getting out to play? it's face looks so sad :rollin
Oh and on your first pic, your hand looks too soft and clean to of done all that work on your bike already, not even got cuts or whatever lol
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hmmm....
Did i order the wrong seals here - i keep reading on some listings that they have "double lip dust seals..."
The picture of the ones i have do not seem to show that?!
:rolleyes
On the plus side got my forks off and changed the dust seals, oil seals look ok and also have rear calliper off, its was in bad shape like the fronts...
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rear caliper and one of its pads, which looks like treasure.....
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/IMG_0131_zpsyvzjjk3n.jpg)
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/IMG_0133_zpsb8cikcns.jpg)
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What's wrong with them? Looks perfectly normal to me :rollin :rollin
But really, guess that's more cleaning and work for you mate, I'm sure you'll get it done to your usual high standards ;-)
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You should scrap the caliper. There seems to be a groove in the left pad guide.
I scraped a front caliper for a much smaler one....
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You should scrap the caliper. There seems to be a groove in the left pad guide.
I scraped a front caliper for a much smaler one....
Can that cause a major problem? Just checking in case I see it on mine when I strip them down, I'm just letting anutz do all his stuff then I'll do all mine come the winter.
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It can prevent the pad from moving against the disk.
The pad sould slide freely on the guide like it is possible on the right side where everything is flat.
The goove can make it stick.
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i will go take a closer look at the guides and see what it is like.....
What can you replace it with - i have never really had to buy new brake calipers...
Is their a good recommended one?
I see some owners replace them with a 1000 FZS Rear Caliper.....
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It can prevent the pad from moving against the disk.
The pad sould slide freely on the guide like it is possible on the right side where everything is flat.
The goove can make it stick.
I replied to this but it didn't post, probably same reason for not realising it would cause a problem.... Too many beers hic :rollin
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I have recovered worse calipers than that. Obviously a replacement Fzs1000 or post 2009 Xjr1300 caliper is the easiest option
I use wonder Wheel alloy wheel cleaner to clean up the caliper first.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/z/9XUAAOSw7NNUCz7-/$_12.JPG)
Use with care as it is acid based, follow the instructions exactly, then wash it down well. Check if you can open the bleed nipples and then remove the pistons if possible. You need to check the seal slots. If the seal slots cannot be cleaned up than replacement is the only solution.
If the nipples are removable and seal slots can be cleaned up; replace pistons and seals and nipples if necessary.
Dismantle the two sides only as a last resort as the small seals can be very difficult to get.
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Thanks Unfazed, plan is to pop all pistons out and clean and wet and dry them - see what state they are in...
Also i am cautious about the seals, need to see if the replacment ones i have ordered will be ok, not sure if they have the correct form on the dust seals...
sure i will have more to follow as i do this anyway...
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Often times they look much worse than they actually are. :)
The spring at the bottom of the caliper comes out with a bit of fiddling, it is to keep pressure on the pads and stops them rattling. Replace the slid pins also.
The alloy wheel cleaner will get most crap off the piston also without damage, I normally use a sharpen piece of very hard plastic as a scraper for the tough bit and since it will be softer than steel it won't damage the pistons. Not to keen on using wet and dry.
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My rear caliper was as bad if not worse.
I ended up splitting the caliper to aid in the cleaning.
I just greased the O ring before clamping back up. I just took my time and had no issues at all.
After cleaning up it works great and is performing better than expected.
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I ended up splitting the caliper to aid in the cleaning.
How did you split the caliper? Thought this is cast as one piece?
is performing better than expected.
If you've split it, will it be as strong as before?
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OK ordered some Wonder Wheels....lets see what it does to the pistons
If it saves me using anything too mechanically abrasive thats good....just let the chemicals do their job...
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I ended up splitting the caliper to aid in the cleaning.
How did you split the caliper? Thought this is cast as one piece?
is performing better than expected.
If you've split it, will it be as strong as before?
Easy enough to take apart in a (suitably padded) bench vice. The 2 halves bolt together. The very small central "O" ring seal is available included as a seal kit from Powerhouse Automotive, Sheffield. Their pattern seals fit perfectly unlike some other some on the market.
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Ahh right, found this, it might help.
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I once had a problem with both front discs binding on the pads.
There was no corrosion on the pistons, but the seals were not pulling the pistons back fully when I let off the brake.
The cure was new seals.
I reckon the cause was either toasting the front brake doing the Hard Knot & Wyrenose pass twice as fast as I could
Or
Possibly topping up the system using DOT3 brake fluid..... I think it was DOT3, or if it wasn't the wrong brake fluid.
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Powerhouse Automotive, Sheffield.
http://www.powerhouseautomotive.co.uk/content/motorcycle-brakes/motorcycle-brake-caliper-services.php (http://www.powerhouseautomotive.co.uk/content/motorcycle-brakes/motorcycle-brake-caliper-services.php)
Good for you Dave48 :thumbup
Did not know this group existed, they do complete kits for the Fzs600 rear caliper including the Seals between the two halves
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This would be better anutz as it's actually off our bike!
https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/genuineparts/9657/32/yamaha%20fzs600sp%20fazer/rear%20brake%20caliper?uid=0&DisplayID=9657 (https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/genuineparts/9657/32/yamaha%20fzs600sp%20fazer/rear%20brake%20caliper?uid=0&DisplayID=9657)
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Mine was a rear caliper from a 600.
You can split this rear caliper. I torqued it back to 40Nm there is only 1 gallery between each half.
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Does anyone know if the seals i bought look ok - there is a link posted earlier - its the only thing i cannot figure out - until i get them...
what is this elusive double lip dust seal?!
:o
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200831498651?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200831498651?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Some listings say the double lip seals are vital??!
or am i being too OCD?
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Similar to this i s'pose?
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does anyone have an OEM one to hand - to photo - if not i will have as soon as my pump adapter gets here :lol
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(https://s19.postimg.cc/466ztc5b7/brake_seals.jpg)
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Thanks for posting that...
I shall see what mine a like when they arrive - if they are not like that i will have to return them....
i suppose?
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The Tourmax kit I used for the R1 front calipers for my TDM had also double lips.
Here you can find a picture (click to enlarge)
https://www.motointegrator.de/artikel/1068912-reparatursatz-bremssattel-tourmax-bcf-213 (https://www.motointegrator.de/artikel/1068912-reparatursatz-bremssattel-tourmax-bcf-213)
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So - this is picture heavy...apologies....
I have had a go at with the pistons, had them out, with Wonder Wheels and some razors and wet and dry...
They look ok but some still have some rust or light marking on the edges....nothing that i suspect would cause and issue but i need input as i am a novice!
If i need to replace pistons i shall
Also the rear i had to split as the pistons would not budge and one still will not.....its a bit nackered so am looking for a 1000 rear to stick on...
Anutz!
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/IMG_0140_zpsaddog5rj.jpg)
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/IMG_0142_zpshoniduvb.jpg)
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/IMG_0143_zpsqhj3r7hm.jpg)
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/IMG_0144_zpsleh1h5f6.jpg)
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/IMG_0145_zps5xj7dwzf.jpg)
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If mine looked like that I'd replace them.
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All of em? :eek :'(
Some look ok or all buggered?!
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All of em? :eek :'(
Some look ok or all buggered?!
+1
The problem being that the movement of the pistons over time will damage the new seals allowing ingress of dirt/water exacerbating the problem.
Its a considerable expense but apart from routine cleaning/maintenance you wont have to do it again. Unfortunately you have inherited the cost of putting right previous lack of preventative maintenance!
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They're not great, but surely they can be buffed up a lot better than that?
I can understand if there was corrosion on part of the pistons that go into the caliper, but only one of them looks like that could maybe happen, the other 3 are still going to be exposed and not enter the caliper at all so shouldn't cause a problem.
They're unsightly and not perfect but so what, they'll be covered in shit again in no time, no matter how new they look going in.
As i said, one does look suspect though so if that can't be improved then at the very least that will need changing, but i don't think the others are bad enough to cause any problems, unless you buy some mega wide pads.
And use plenty of red rubber grease on refitting.
It's obviously your choice primarily though, and just my personal opinion.
If you ride all year round like i do the edges of the pots tend to look like that anyway, due to the amount of salt on the roads in winter, that's why i recommend cleaning the pistons with a toothbrush, brake cleaner then reapplying with red rubber grease at least once, or even twice a year if you can be arsed. ;)
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:agree
Agreed, that particularly bad piston would be best changed. The brakes should be ok for the lifetime of one set of pads then.
The trouble with attacking them with abrasives is that you may have damaged/removed the chrome plating badly enough that corrosion will really get its teeth into the surface as the pads wear down. I would have heeded the advice about keeping them away from the wet-n-dry.
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:'( well i think i will just replace the lot and start fresh with proper maintanence.....which i have no problem with - turns out a second hand bike is very expensive!
Just in the process of getting some idea of price from powerhouse as if i am buyin new pistons and seals i may as well get the done and forget about it
I can see what you mean with the abrasives - assume you mean the wonder wheels i used....
the wet and dray i assume also is a culprit for removing the fine finish?
Anyway will update as i slowy leverage money...
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ok so - cannot afford to replace all 4 now so going to re-assemble and see what they are like, they did not leak before just stuck so surely i can get some safe mileage out of them - not going back on the road till and MOT in a few weeks anyway
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You have to be lucky, like i have been before, but sometimes you can pick up a whole caliper in very good working order for much less than it costs to replace parts.
As with all things on a bike though, prevention is always better than cure. :)
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Like has been said the bad bit is outside of the seals so I cant see a problem, rather than red grease (after fitting) would copper grease be better on those ends that are constantly exposed to keep rust at bay now that the chrome has been removed.
Why dont they make them from stainless steel is it just cost.
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yep a little copper grease is what my friend suggested - i am just checking that the marks ARE above the fluid seal - one may be right on it so might change one piston....which i can afford :)
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:stop So you reckon putting grease with particles of metal in it being moved tight against rubber seals won't cause any issues? :rolleyes
As advised, several times, on here, ONLY use Red RUBBER Grease.
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yep a little copper grease is what my friend suggested - i am just checking that the marks ARE above the fluid seal - one may be right on it so might change one piston....which i can afford :)
Does your friend not really like you? :pokefun
Just read that aside from the metal particles causing havoc, copper grease is petroleum based and will make the seals swell causing binding and will eventually cause them to perish.
Nice....... :lol
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clearly he does not - will give it a miss and just re-assemble as normal
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i think i might go and snap a few exhaust studs.....that was actually more fun! :'( :rollin
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:stop So you reckon putting grease with particles of metal in it being moved tight against rubber seals won't cause any issues? :rolleyes
As advised, several times, on here, ONLY use Red RUBBER Grease.
I waw thinking on parts away from the seals - like they tell you to do the back of the pads
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so was i to be honest, on the bits i removed the chrome finish off etc....?
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Keep the copper grease away from any contact with the calliper body if possible. It can encourage the aluminium to corrode if there are any scratches in the anodizing. I normally use non metal based brake greases such as mintex ceratec for back of pads, brake pins etc
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I suppose if red grease will protect just as well then best to be safe, I just get the impression that red grease is not as robust in staying where you put it as copper grease would be as it is made for assembly, just thinking rubber grease is sort of transulant/ watery - not quite and dosent seem like it would stand up to the weather.
And if other grease is a no no with rubber - how come you pack rubber gatered joints on your car with non red rubber grease
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I suppose if red grease will protect just as well then best to be safe, I just get the impression that red grease is not as robust in staying where you put it as copper grease would be as it is made for assembly, just thinking rubber grease is sort of transulant/ watery - not quite and dosent seem like it would stand up to the weather.
And if other grease is a no no with rubber - how come you pack rubber gatered joints on your car with non red rubber grease
Straight from the horses mouth.....
http://www.redrubbergrease.com/ (http://www.redrubbergrease.com/)
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I got a tub of the castrol one mmmmmm like a tube of just the ripple bit in raspberry ripple (only thicker, and red and dosnt taste like raspberry, and might kill me if I ate it all)
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yes it might kill you if you eat it all....but there is only one way to find out....grab a spoon..... :D
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Traditional red rubber grease wouldn't kill you it was based on vegetable castor oil which people used to take to keep themselves regular.
The new ones are often synthetic based.
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ooo ooo got to go got to go.
to the loo (I ate the tub )
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Some of the marks extend beyond the dust seal when the pistons are pushed home for fitting new Pads. :eek
On the poor advice of copper grease on the Pistons I would have to question the persons :fish knowledge of brakes, brake piston seals and copper grease. I have seen instances of premature wheel bearings fail from fellows coating the axle with copper grease, the copper getting into the bearings. In one case it was when a fellow asked me if he was fitting the bearings correctly after 3 failure in 18000 miles that I realised what he was doing.
The copper grease would more than likely cause premature wear on the seals.
I repeat what I said earlier, if mine were like that I would replace them. :rolleyes
Brakes are not an item I would ever skimp on and the same applies to tyres. :eek
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is there any issue with using "Pattern part" piston sets or should i stick with OEM?
A set if pistons and seals for a front caliper is 70-80 on ebay, but not sure what OEM is, looking at fowlers...
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is there any issue with using "Pattern part" piston sets or should i stick with OEM?
A set if pistons and seals for a front caliper is 70-80 on ebay, but not sure what OEM is, looking at fowlers...
https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/genuineparts/9657/30/yamaha%20fzs600sp%20fazer/front%20brake%20caliper?uid=0&DisplayID=9657 (https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/genuineparts/9657/30/yamaha%20fzs600sp%20fazer/front%20brake%20caliper?uid=0&DisplayID=9657)
That'll give you the prices too, think about £120 per side plus vat! Rough price but brand new!
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On the poor advice of copper grease on the Pistons I would have to question the persons ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/fish.gif[/url]) knowledge of brakes,
It wasnt advice it was a question look
would copper grease be better on those ends that are constantly exposed to keep rust at bay now that the chrome has been removed.
See the word WOULD ---- I am asking not telling
Now I know thank you, red rubber grease it is then :smokin
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yep a little copper grease is what my friend suggested - i am just checking that the marks ARE above the fluid seal - one may be right on it so might change one piston....which i can afford :)
Fazersharp I was replying to this post not yours :'(
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Sorry im just a bit touchy right now my periods due and my cats ill and my skin a really bad at the moment
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is there any issue with using "Pattern part" piston sets or should i stick with OEM?
A set if pistons and seals for a front caliper is 70-80 on ebay, but not sure what OEM is, looking at fowlers...
Didn't they sing "Losing My Religion" :lol
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never even heard of that song.....but regardless 8 new pistons and 4 seal sets on the way :'(
ordered from Partzilla and even with import taxs should work out a lot cheaper than the U.K stockists i checked last night
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is there any issue with using "Pattern part" piston sets or should i stick with OEM?
A set if pistons and seals for a front caliper is 70-80 on ebay, but not sure what OEM is, looking at fowlers...
Didn't they sing "Losing My Religion" :lol
That was R.E.M.(Rapid Eye Movement) not OEM :rolleyes
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never even heard of that song.....but regardless 8 new pistons and 4 seal sets on the way :'(
ordered from Partzilla and even with import taxs should work out a lot cheaper than the U.K stockists i checked last night
Give us a hint of a price then, we're all friends here?
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will post the totals etc soon - just realised i need to ammend the order, added 4 too many packs of seals
But we are talking about 300$ total for 8 pistons and 4 seals then 70$ shipping so UK pounds we say 200£ UK, then about 40£ fees at worst
SO should work out at less than 1/2 price of most UK sellers for the whole lot...
Will update with my recipt once i sorted this issue out
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ordered from Partzilla and even with import taxs should work out a lot cheaper than the U.K stockists i checked last night
Give us a hint of a price then, we're all friends here?
[/quote]
I searched last night darrsi and past it on to anutz, think it's only $61 pr
Here's a link to that part, but as anutz said even with import tax and deliver etc still far cheaper than UK
Might be worth a look for other bits and pieces if anyone needs anything :)
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-4SV-25802-00-00.html (http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-4SV-25802-00-00.html)
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$400 = £258 in today's exchange rate
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yep and my order hit 398$ delivered, so even with 23% import/duty, we are only looking at under 310/20 where as in the UK you are talking 440+ for the same kit....so significant saving...
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is there any issue with using "Pattern part" piston sets or should i stick with OEM?
A set if pistons and seals for a front caliper is 70-80 on ebay, but not sure what OEM is, looking at fowlers...
Didn't they sing "Losing My Religion" :lol
That was R.E.M.(Rapid Eye Movement) not OEM :rolleyes
No no you are thinking of OMD-------------------showing my age now ( orchestral maneuvers in the dark ) :guitar anola gay should of stayed at home yesterday :guitar and that lot
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yep and my order hit 398$ delivered, so even with 23% import/duty, we are only looking at under 310/20 where as in the UK you are talking 440+ for the same kit....so significant saving...
Yeah that's about right anutz, I actually thought the tax was added already giving you $400 but even then it's a good saving :-)
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yes good saving - just have to wait now - but time to look at my rear caliper and see if i cannot sort - also have some high temp paint so i can now spray my downpipes etc...
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is there any issue with using "Pattern part" piston sets or should i stick with OEM?
A set if pistons and seals for a front caliper is 70-80 on ebay, but not sure what OEM is, looking at fowlers...
Didn't they sing "Losing My Religion" :lol
That was R.E.M.(Rapid Eye Movement) not OEM :rolleyes
Sarcasm not your forte then? :rollin
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is there any issue with using "Pattern part" piston sets or should i stick with OEM?
A set if pistons and seals for a front caliper is 70-80 on ebay, but not sure what OEM is, looking at fowlers...
Didn't they sing "Losing My Religion" :lol
That was R.E.M.(Rapid Eye Movement) not OEM :rolleyes
No no you are thinking of OMD-------------------showing my age now ( orchestral maneuvers in the dark ) :guitar anola gay should of stayed at home yesterday :guitar and that lot
Enola Gay
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still not got a clue what you 3 are talking about, OEM, REM, OMD, Enola who!?
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still not got a clue what you 3 are talking about, OEM, REM, OMD, Enola who!?
Oh Mr anutz, you need to get out of your garage more :rolleyes
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ordered from Partzilla and even with import taxs should work out a lot cheaper than the U.K stockists i checked last night
Give us a hint of a price then, we're all friends here?
I searched last night darrsi and past it on to anutz, think it's only $61 pr
Here's a link to that part, but as anutz said even with import tax and deliver etc still far cheaper than UK
Might be worth a look for other bits and pieces if anyone needs anything :)
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-4SV-25802-00-00.html (http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-4SV-25802-00-00.html)
I tell you what would've been a lot cheaper, a pair of fully functioning used calipers for about £100, and it's not like you're cutting corners by doing that either.
£258 is a lot of dosh, much more than i expected. :look
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Sarcasm not your forte then? :rollin
You obviously don't know me darrsi, I must be the most sarcastic one in the family :)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=if-UzXIQ5vw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=if-UzXIQ5vw)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5XJ2GiR6Bo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5XJ2GiR6Bo)
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And......
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anutz, it's just one big learning curve for you today. :lol
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its like i know nothing.......wait......i do know nothing.... :eek
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its like i know nothing.......wait......i do know nothing.... :eek
That's not true anutz......
You now know you know nothing so that's something you know :rollin
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your right sinto.....i do know something.... :b
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its like i know nothing.......wait......i do know nothing.... :eek
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6EaoPMANQM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6EaoPMANQM)
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brilliant! :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin
so am i the "witnit" then :D
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is there any issue with using "Pattern part" piston sets or should i stick with OEM?
A set if pistons and seals for a front caliper is 70-80 on ebay, but not sure what OEM is, looking at fowlers...
Didn't they sing "Losing My Religion" :lol
That was R.E.M.(Rapid Eye Movement) not OEM :rolleyes
No no you are thinking of OMD-------------------showing my age now ( orchestral maneuvers in the dark ) :guitar anola gay should of stayed at home yesterday :guitar and that lot
Enola Gay
Foc -------------------- for 25years ive been singing anola gay
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is there any issue with using "Pattern part" piston sets or should i stick with OEM?
A set if pistons and seals for a front caliper is 70-80 on ebay, but not sure what OEM is, looking at fowlers...
Didn't they sing "Losing My Religion" :lol
That was R.E.M.(Rapid Eye Movement) not OEM :rolleyes
No no you are thinking of OMD-------------------showing my age now ( orchestral maneuvers in the dark ) :guitar anola gay should of stayed at home yesterday :guitar and that lot
Enola Gay
Foc -------------------- for 25years ive been singing anola gay
Enola Gay was the nickname of the bomber aircraft that dropped the first ever atomic bomb on Hiroshima.
It was actually the pilots mothers name.
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found a rear calliper as well - ordered - 82 dollars, FZ1 calliper, should work out 67£ with import duty if it gets processed at customs...
:lol
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found a rear calliper as well - ordered - 82 dollars, FZ1 calliper, should work out 67£ with import duty if it gets processed at customs...
:lol
From what country?
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sorry - USA :) , Florida i think..
why are Florida calipers different? :lol
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201346306792?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#ht_3182wt_986 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201346306792?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#ht_3182wt_986)
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sorry - USA :) , Florida i think..
why are Florida calipers different? :lol
No, just curious.
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So my Rear Caliper arrived today!!! :b :b :b :b
Looks nice!
Pistons are ok by the looks of it but it will be sent off with the front and their new pistons/seals to powerhouse for a service then will be fitting...!!!!
Total cost 51£
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/IMG_0351_zps2afwlayo.jpg)