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Messages - Html33
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1
« on: 12 December 2016, 12:41:18 pm »
 Top box! Easily get one in mine and you can get larger ones!
2
« on: 12 December 2016, 12:17:28 pm »
most link pipes are strait through think only motad has baffles i might be wrong though
Mine was not a straight through that much I do know. I had to cut / smash the end baffle out... The motad exhaust on my bike has a removable baffle. I just removed mine and its now a lovely deep burble.
The end can does not have any support for a DB Killer / Removable baffle although they are only one allen key and slide in so could make it accept one by drilling a hole. I keep meaning to get a video to show as mine is now more than a deep burble!
3
« on: 10 December 2016, 07:27:08 pm »
Hi Guys So my Fazer 600 2000 has a Micron end can, stainless steel downpipes and link pipe, it was pretty much silent. I wanted to give it a bit of a growl so have cut the end can from what was 19inch to 11inch and removed the baffle from the link pipe.... Holy crap it is insanely loud as pretty much a straight through pipe now, now wearing ear plugs  Regrettably i would like to reverse the effect and quieten it down a little and thought I'd start with the link pipe. If anyone has an spare link pipe sitting around, please let me know will obviously pay Video to follow tomorrow... Regards
4
« on: 27 September 2016, 12:21:32 pm »
Is the fazer worth doing about £600 senpension mods, all these other mods when... It's just a fazer?
I might offend a few people saying that but i have just bought a cheap one to run around, and as fun as it is - It's no match against my ZX6R or newer up right bikes
5
« on: 26 September 2016, 10:45:16 pm »
What rpm do you have the bike set at on tickover?
I bet it's that! it sits at literally under 1k, but higher than 900rpm, id say probably 980/990 RPM. Although responds nicely. I'll adjust that up to book spec 1150-1250 and get back to you!
6
« on: 26 September 2016, 10:07:16 pm »
Hi Guys n' Girls Just stripped and rebuilt the headstock bearing, still had the original OEM one fitted and had an awful notch at 12oclock. Lovely bikes to work on, was easy to lift old one out, new one in! Was a pleasure to work on. Any way, i went out for a spin earlier and noticed when the clutch was out and in netural, i could hear a knock, i could also feel it through the seat and frame etc. When the clutch is pulled in that goes away just leaving my slightly noisy cam (getting a manual cct soon) Any one got any idea of what it might be? Bike is new to me (done about 200miles, bike has 31k) but seems to pull hard, strong clutch, starts on the button and revs crisp. thanks 
7
« on: 22 September 2016, 08:35:08 pm »
Hi,
Front end looks a bit naked on the bike at the moment, i like the look of bellypans.
How do they attach on? Are there mount points/fixings already in place on the bike?
Thanks
8
« on: 21 September 2016, 08:15:17 am »
Check the bar ends and the internal weights are still in the bars. My missus CBR125 had them removed by previous owner when he put the gash grips on. I could never notice it (or was used to it?) But the missus said when she rides her hands go numb. Investigated, they were missing - Replaced them all No more complaints (Well not about numb hands any way, still plenty of complaints  )
9
« on: 20 September 2016, 03:57:59 pm »
There's a back up fuse in the fuse box under the seat.
Have a look at it as I'm fairly sure it's this that has blown.
(Happened to me a couple of years ago)
Would laugh if that what stainless problem is! Looks like he has ripped the entire bike apart
10
« on: 20 September 2016, 03:57:06 pm »
I had an ER5 that i spent ages going bloody going cross-eyed trying to see the light. In the end like above mentioned i use a piece of soft wire and run it through a few times. Refitted to the bike and although the jet had barely any viable light through it worked as expected.
11
« on: 20 September 2016, 01:18:56 pm »
The ones i had broke down gradually rather than just stopped working.
The bike just doesn't feel right, and can give off a mild jerky feeling especially at lower revs.
If you give the throttle a bit of welly you won't notice it so much, but in traffic it's very noticeable.
Having a clean air filter, a carb balance and a TPS in good nick in the correct position can improve the general running of the bike massively.
If you ever do feel that you have a dodgy TPS just buy a brand new one, don't bother with a used one, 'cos it'll likely be a minimum 13 years old and about to fail anyway.
Not experienced anything like that which is nice.
Probably only done 70mile on the bike but at low RPM the bike is smooth, in 6th gear at 2.5.3k rpm i was doing around 25/30mph and the throttle response was brisk considering how low in the RPM i was.
I will post up shortly results of the carb tune and a before and after video!
But like i have already mentioned, i am very impressed already with the response of the throttle considering the cracked carb inlets (although obviously not completely spilt)
They can't be cracked all the way through otherwise it would be running like a tractor. Maybe worth filling the cracks with some silicone for now.
Dunno what you've got now, but a K&N air filter makes the throttle even more responsive.
Nope, i agree. Can't be cracked other wise revs would be 'fluffy' and idle all over the place.
For now, i will probably go down the route of just covering them, i've got soem petrol / heat resistance silicone at home too!
Me neither, not a clue on what it has. I looked at prices for a K&N and tbh, it didn't justify the extra £30 odd so will probably replace for standard
This bike is a replacement for my ZX6R G1, so it's got nothing on acceleration or top end!
It'll be the last filter you ever buy for the bike, I clean mine in warm water with washing powder which has similar main ingredients to the K&N cleaning spray, the only thing you'll need to buy down the line will be the oil that you spray on them once cleaned, but that bottle lasts quite a few times so will last you years and thousands of miles.
Awesome, sounds good. will have to look into it.
I only intend to have the bike for another 6 months or so until the weather gets a lot better. Doesen't mean i will neglect it but i dont want to spend lots on it!
You bought it for the bad weather?
Pretty much. I just sold my ZX6R for good money and required a bit of work to be fully road worthy and have just spent the cash on a good to go bike. Needs small minor work, and me being me would like everything perfectish. Seems like a well planted bike, nice and upright and handles very well for little input
12
« on: 20 September 2016, 12:37:13 pm »
The ones i had broke down gradually rather than just stopped working.
The bike just doesn't feel right, and can give off a mild jerky feeling especially at lower revs.
If you give the throttle a bit of welly you won't notice it so much, but in traffic it's very noticeable.
Having a clean air filter, a carb balance and a TPS in good nick in the correct position can improve the general running of the bike massively.
If you ever do feel that you have a dodgy TPS just buy a brand new one, don't bother with a used one, 'cos it'll likely be a minimum 13 years old and about to fail anyway.
Not experienced anything like that which is nice.
Probably only done 70mile on the bike but at low RPM the bike is smooth, in 6th gear at 2.5.3k rpm i was doing around 25/30mph and the throttle response was brisk considering how low in the RPM i was.
I will post up shortly results of the carb tune and a before and after video!
But like i have already mentioned, i am very impressed already with the response of the throttle considering the cracked carb inlets (although obviously not completely spilt)
They can't be cracked all the way through otherwise it would be running like a tractor. Maybe worth filling the cracks with some silicone for now.
Dunno what you've got now, but a K&N air filter makes the throttle even more responsive.
Nope, i agree. Can't be cracked other wise revs would be 'fluffy' and idle all over the place.
For now, i will probably go down the route of just covering them, i've got soem petrol / heat resistance silicone at home too!
Me neither, not a clue on what it has. I looked at prices for a K&N and tbh, it didn't justify the extra £30 odd so will probably replace for standard
This bike is a replacement for my ZX6R G1, so it's got nothing on acceleration or top end!
It'll be the last filter you ever buy for the bike, I clean mine in warm water with washing powder which has similar main ingredients to the K&N cleaning spray, the only thing you'll need to buy down the line will be the oil that you spray on them once cleaned, but that bottle lasts quite a few times so will last you years and thousands of miles.
Awesome, sounds good. will have to look into it. I only intend to have the bike for another 6 months or so until the weather gets a lot better. Doesen't mean i will neglect it but i dont want to spend lots on it!
13
« on: 20 September 2016, 11:57:49 am »
The ones i had broke down gradually rather than just stopped working.
The bike just doesn't feel right, and can give off a mild jerky feeling especially at lower revs.
If you give the throttle a bit of welly you won't notice it so much, but in traffic it's very noticeable.
Having a clean air filter, a carb balance and a TPS in good nick in the correct position can improve the general running of the bike massively.
If you ever do feel that you have a dodgy TPS just buy a brand new one, don't bother with a used one, 'cos it'll likely be a minimum 13 years old and about to fail anyway.
Not experienced anything like that which is nice.
Probably only done 70mile on the bike but at low RPM the bike is smooth, in 6th gear at 2.5.3k rpm i was doing around 25/30mph and the throttle response was brisk considering how low in the RPM i was.
I will post up shortly results of the carb tune and a before and after video!
But like i have already mentioned, i am very impressed already with the response of the throttle considering the cracked carb inlets (although obviously not completely spilt)
They can't be cracked all the way through otherwise it would be running like a tractor. Maybe worth filling the cracks with some silicone for now.
Dunno what you've got now, but a K&N air filter makes the throttle even more responsive.
Nope, i agree. Can't be cracked other wise revs would be 'fluffy' and idle all over the place. For now, i will probably go down the route of just covering them, i've got soem petrol / heat resistance silicone at home too! Me neither, not a clue on what it has. I looked at prices for a K&N and tbh, it didn't justify the extra £30 odd so will probably replace for standard This bike is a replacement for my ZX6R G1, so it's got nothing on acceleration or top end!
14
« on: 20 September 2016, 11:42:54 am »
The ones i had broke down gradually rather than just stopped working.
The bike just doesn't feel right, and can give off a mild jerky feeling especially at lower revs.
If you give the throttle a bit of welly you won't notice it so much, but in traffic it's very noticeable.
Having a clean air filter, a carb balance and a TPS in good nick in the correct position can improve the general running of the bike massively.
If you ever do feel that you have a dodgy TPS just buy a brand new one, don't bother with a used one, 'cos it'll likely be a minimum 13 years old and about to fail anyway.
Not experienced anything like that which is nice. Probably only done 70mile on the bike but at low RPM the bike is smooth, in 6th gear at 2.5.3k rpm i was doing around 25/30mph and the throttle response was brisk considering how low in the RPM i was. I will post up shortly results of the carb tune and a before and after video! But like i have already mentioned, i am very impressed already with the response of the throttle considering the cracked carb inlets (although obviously not completely spilt)
15
« on: 20 September 2016, 10:53:42 am »
The tensioner will sort itself out when it gets to the next position.
I've been told the engine has been like this for about 8 thousand miles, apparently has tried rolling it back although not tried my self. It is quite an awful tick, i'll get a video and don't feel particularly uncomfortable about just leaving it. It's always quite a nasty noise to put up with on tickover Or it could just be the clutch rattle? Does the tick over noise disappear when the clutch is pulled in with the bike still at tick over in neutral?
Not clutch rattle. Not noticed it while flicking the clutch in or out but will pay some attention to that on the ride home. Thats the full kit ie taper roller bearings,races & seals. I phoned Marksman at the time I ordered & they assured me they were a good brand.
Re your carb rubbers_I replaced mine in July got them from M&P Swansea-£69-99. Also bought carb overhaul kits from them. Transformed the fuelling after carb balance. Tyres; I am running Michelin PR3s Good tyres! Fantastic, I'll be in touch in regards to those shortly David48 as that sounds like what i need. Sure sounds better than the generic 'all balls' stuff! The bike is actually very crispy and responsive surprisingly. I will probably go as far as replacing the inlets, full service and balence (got a set of carbtunes) I'm going to keep an eye on eBay for a cheap set of good inlets if not i'll get the £70 ones.
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« on: 20 September 2016, 09:53:01 am »
the big spring pulls the pedal back up to stop the rear brake dragging and helps ensure the rear brake light goes off when you take your foot off the pedal.
Agree. But, if the brake is well looked after it shouldn't drag. Hydraulic pressure is enough to return the pistons. Never had an issue with brake lights getting stuck on and take it off a few bikes but will bear that in mind
17
« on: 20 September 2016, 09:18:06 am »
Just bought one of these bikes, can i ask the symptoms of a faulty TPS?
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« on: 20 September 2016, 09:01:17 am »
that's not the spring I mean, I've just realised. The spring I want is the thinner one that connects up to the brake light. I'll give them a bell and see if they can get it.
I know the one you mean. Mine have ended up just looking like bits of wire before, but it works right? Also in regards to that big spring, i've always taken mine off. Gives a lot better control on the brake imo
19
« on: 20 September 2016, 08:16:41 am »
Welcome to the world of "Fazership"!
I have exactly the same model as yours-mine is a 2000 build(5DMA) but with a 2001 "Y" registration. Yours looks in good condition-mine came with the usual cracks on the nose cone where bike had been dropped by previous owner so have a bit of plastic welding to do over winter months.
Otherwise have done all the service/maintenance jobs including replacing the tired old rear shock & had the front forks overhauled by local specialist. In fairness mine is now showing 53,000 on clock & has a slight rattle from the clutch that disappears when the lever pulled in.
By chance I purchased a set of taper roller headset bearings & seals from "Marksman" but in the event after checking/cleaning/regreasing/readjusting existing ones I didnt have to replace after all. So if you are interested you can have these for £20 posted. Brand is "Codex"-they are good quality as are all products supplied by "Marksman"
I can vouch for their rear suspension linkage bearings which were a fraction of the cost of Yamaha OEM & every bit as good!
PM me if interested. Dave
Cheers buddy! It's been good so far, much less intense ride this morning compared to the ZX6R, yet still not hanging about. There is no chance that this headstock bearing can be spun around, there is a big notch at 12oclock, the bars rest / slot into this gap. I'm sure i could move it but for the sake of a few pennies, a days work and a chance to chillin with the bike it shall be replaced! It's not too bad of nick. No cracks and no major scratches, i'm sure it will polish up well. It's been stood outside so the front brace around the fairing and clocks looks a little bit worn I will do a service on it out of principal, Sparks, plugs, air filter and oil filter. Valves are hopefully ok i don't want to get too involved. Runs spot on other than a little tick Carb rubbers need replacing Headstock Manual Cam Chain Tensioner, currently ticks on tickover, disappearers on anything over and sounds like a sewing machine (recommendations anyone?)Renthal 758's Ultra Low (or 789s) handle bars Belly Pan Mudguard Scottoiler to remove I would also like to fit a set of matching Michelins, although currently mixed tires and old it feels very well planted. These bearings you speak of, i assume that's the full kit, seals, upper and lower bearings with races? Let me know, chances are i will have them off you. Let me know if we can sourceother parts as well
20
« on: 19 September 2016, 02:07:33 pm »
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« on: 19 September 2016, 02:02:11 pm »
Hi guys Just bought my self, my first Fazer. See picture! I have got this for a few months until summer starts again and i can get another sports bike. Seems to run fairly well, although has a little CCT rattle. It also needs a new headstock bearing. I'm looking to get one and in my experience with bearings it's best to go to a specialist website and get a decent brand which i what i intend to do. I can see that the upper bearing size is 25x47x15 And lower 30x55x17 I can high quality bearings very easily Anyone know what seals I would need? It'll be the upper and lower seal so two in total. If I am unable to find them, I'm going to have to buy one of the pre-made kits, which i would rather avoid doing as they don't normally use as good a' bearings as say SKF. Thanks for your help 
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