Leaking Fazer FZS600

[darrsi]

The single filament H1 bulb on the left side is your headlight, that's meant to be on all the time.


For some shit reason the twin filament H4 bulb on the right side is wired for use with either your flasher/pass light button OR high beam only.


The mod that most people do is to make the lower filament stay on all the time as an extra low beam with the H4 bulb.
If the mod hasn't been done then the lower filament of the H4 bulb simply wouldn't ever be used or light up at all.

[aquilaalba]

Where should the small pipe coming off the bottom of the expansion tank be connected then? It is just hanging at the moment, but surely should be attached somewhere.... This Fazer of mine seems to be bodged in few ways, it has been a write off as I've found out today upon receiving of the logbook... I'm starting to think about giving this one back and getting another one, yet it had a new nose cone, few things done to it, might just get it back straight and carry on - rides fine, managed to tighten up the triple tree main nut so no loose movement in there any more. As for slight misfire at low revs - will change the caps, this should help. Altered the TPS as it was out a bit, this improved it a tat. Now the cooling system and dodgy electrics...

[darrsi]

Is the bike the right way up, sounds like it's upside down? 


Dunno if it's any help but look at section BODYWORK > SIDECOVER
Looking at the photo it may just be a breather pipe, but i'm not 100% on that?


https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/modelImage.asp?modelID=9657&uID=0


The manual may shed a bit of light here as well, but i doubt it for the expansion tank.


http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=22

[unfazed]

.

[darrsi]

Yeah that would make total sense, I wasn't quite sure what he meant to be honest. 

[aquilaalba]

What about the other pipe then coming off the top of the expansion tank? It was connected stupid way round - bottom hose was leaking as it would and will be reconnected to the top of the thermostat housing now - this should solve the leak... How about the top hose - I take it it's only the breather pipe for the expansion tank - is there any connector it attaches to or needs to be placed? I did check both Haynes and other service manuals and there is no routing for these shown... Fingers crossed that should cure it, will check the rear light cluster from scratch with the diagrams printed and that should be ok as well. What scares me is that it shows that some butcher was mending the bike, not sure what else to expect... As said, rides nice, if anything, it bangs into 1st gear a tat too harsh, even though I've cut down on the low revs.

[darrsi]

If you ever have a blocked up coolant system the expansion tank will fill up and boil like a kettle then dump excess liquid out of that pipe on to the floor.


If you adjust the clutch properly from the bottom end first then tweak it at the lever end that may help when selecting first gear.
Also if you roll the bike forward a few inches then select first it won't be so clunky as well.

[unfazed]

Pages 12 to 15 of the supplementary service manual give most routing of hoses/pipes/cables.

4 pipes/hoses go down the rear of the clutch cover

Coolant Over flow
Tank Over flow
Carburettor pipes.

[aquilaalba]

Which manual is it? Did check both that I've got - Haynes and FZS600'98 Service Manual - couldn't find the routing of the pipes... Will get them re-routed and post back. Might just strip the lot and start from scratch rather than finding more and more problems with every step...

[unfazed]

Download the fzs600 2000 supplementary manual.

There should be a hose guide behind the clutch and close to the stand bracket.
I will get and get a photo tomorrow if I can

[aquilaalba]

Just found it and yes, it does show it more clearly. Will have to check all the routing, get the clutch adjusted and check compression just in case, as it has that slight misfire on low revs, considering someone put it back wrong, I'm starting to think did it overheat and caused a problem on pot No.1 or is it just cap problem? If it'd be something more substantial though it would be manifested at higher revs and under load and it doesn't so shouldn't be the case, but doesn't hurt to check. Also electrics need looking at, so plenty of things to do before I'll be able to properly run it. Did my Mod 1 on my old Divvy though, now Mod 2 will be most likely on the Divvy as well, I was hoping to use Fazer for both but I need to make sure it's reliable and without any issues first. Thanks for all your help, I'll post an update as soon as I'm at it. Thanks for info on another manual, helps a lot as well.

[aquilaalba]

Right. As for the lock on the side of the bike (seat) - just needs adjusting I suppose and by not being able to fill the tank last time I tried I've found out that the spare key is not a spare key, but the main one is only for the ignition and other one (genuine) works with seat lock (which is not engaging anyway at present) and tank lock. Next thing - the pipe in question is routed now from bottom of expansion tank to the nipple on the radiator, as should be. Leaking should be gone now. Here's another problem, did look into manuals but can't find such pipe connected - pictured - it was connected from the radiator top (by the cap) nipple to a pipe on top of the carbs??? On the manual it seems that copper pipe sticking out of the carbs unit is not connected to anything, next thing it might be that I was getting coolant in carbs causing misfire.... Jeez... Pipe shown on photos below is the one I disconnected, first photo shows the location of the pipe roughly and next one shows zoomed in view of where the pipe is connected to - other end is not connected at present and I think the whole pipe should just come off altogether.


Happy New Year everyone!

[unfazed]

That pipe should go to the radiator on the right hand side below the main radiator hose.

Its compatriot from the other side of the carburetors should attach to the Thermostat housing underneath the temperature switch and behind the radiator fan switch.

[aquilaalba]

Right... All (I guess) is connected right, the pipe going from the top of the expansion tank was going through the unknown (earlier) bracket and past that it was connected to the right side of the radiator. It is now connected as follows: bottom of the expansion tank to the nipple right under the radiator cap on thermostat housing, top pipe of the expansion tank is connected to the mystery bracket found earlier and nowhere else (effectively acting as a breather (which it should be, isn't it), pipe going from the right side of the carbs (small pipe pointing up from the carbs) is connected to a nipple on the right side of the rad and lastly similar upward small pipe from the carbs is connected to the thermostat housing nipple located around temperature switch and fan switch as per unfazed's post. Thanks to all of you who helped me here, glad to have this finally sorted, will test it this week providing the rain gets milder. Next on the agenda is mocked up electrics, but we're getting there. Will readjust the steering triple tree bearing as I bought the appropriate Yamaha (-ish) tool for the torque wrench. Better to get it right before starting to ride on it and mocking it up - it was completely loose, you could feel clunking when applying brake, going over potholes, etc. There are some issues, but all will be addressed. Eventually, anyway... ) Thanks!

[aquilaalba]

Just to let you guys know - did all the alterations to the pipework and I can proudly announce that it doesn't leak, rad gets the temperature after some time, so it seems that my cooling issues are sorted. Electrical part next, plus the triple tree bearing tension readjustment. Easy. Thanks again for all your help, I'm afraid you'll hear from me again!

[unfazed]

Top pipe of the coolant expansion tank is an over flow/breather and should route down the side of the engine behind the clutch cover.

The bracket attached to the air filter housing under the tank should have the pipe attached to under side of it routed down the same way behind the clutch cover. That pipe is to drain water or fuel over fill from the tank filler area to the ground

[aquilaalba]

I will have to re-create this as on mine there should be a little 'funnel' which is missing - apparently - yet, I'll get two pipes connected to the tank outlets and run them by the clutch cover as it should be. Taking quite a bit to get back to bog standard...

[Hoppy]

best not to taste or put near your mouth or food as toxic