Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: mobile mouse on 25 June 2019, 09:45:08 pm
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Fitted new chain & sprockets this morning
bought a530 pitch 110 link Ognibene Gold Chain
and Ognibene sprockets std 15 teeth front and 48 rear.
the rivet pin was a little different than a DID one but i thought I had fitted it ok.
Went out for a test ride and after 20mins thought all was well.
On way home at 50mph bang the rivet link let go...... Should have gone to garage and had it checked....
So pushed bike home 1/2 mile..... very hot today I was drenched when I got home..
the rivet link grabed hold of the top bolt which holds the bearing cover plate (sits behind the front sprocket) and mangled it up it's item 36 on the ajsutton website
see [size=78%]https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/genuineparts/9654/13/yamaha-fzs600-fazer-1998/crankcase?uID=0 (https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/genuineparts/9654/13/yamaha-fzs600-fazer-1998/crankcase?uID=0)[/size]
It is only tightened up to 10Nm so not holding anything other than the cover plate.
But the casting has been ripped out you can see half the threads with a chunk missing from the left side.
So I am a little unhappy with myself for not doing a propper job.
So need to work out how to fix it and hope I havn't trashed the gearbox or any other internals.
I will try and get a photo loaded at the weekend after I remove the front sprocket...
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Worrying as I have just fitted a new DID and used an Ognibene joining tool. I stopped after 1.5 miles to check and then at about 20 then at 50 then at 100 and so on.In what way was the pin different.That mangled bolt holding the cover plate - the plate is just a retaining plate for the rubber oil seal. which i believe is a tight push fit
Was it this tool https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AFAM-Chain-Riveting-Press-Tool-fits-Triumph-800-Tiger-XC-11-14/192567695063?epid=11017010080&hash=item2cd5edd6d7:g:OVoAAOSwukVbIW7R (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AFAM-Chain-Riveting-Press-Tool-fits-Triumph-800-Tiger-XC-11-14/192567695063?epid=11017010080&hash=item2cd5edd6d7:g:OVoAAOSwukVbIW7R)
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What do you mean when you say the rivet pin was different than a DID one?
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the outer plate would not stay on the pins.
Whereas when I fitted a DID chain the outer plate needed to be pressed onto the pins
So I had to use the rivet tool to keep the outer plates pressed together at the same time mushrooming the end of the pin...
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the outer plate would not stay on the pins.
Whereas when I fitted a DID chain the outer plate needed to be pressed onto the pins
Got myself mixed up - my tool was an Afram one.
Yes on my DID link I had to press it on with the tool it was somthing like the pin was 4mm and the link plate was 4.2mm and there was a guide in the tool to make sure that the plate was not pushed on too tight. A loose outer plate sounds wrong to me - wonder if it was the wrong rived link for the chain ?
When I ordered my C+S kit it was going to come with a an of lube so I got them to swap the lube for an extra link in case I potatoed the first go.
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clutch push rod was snapped in two pieces when chain broke.
clutch still works. Ordered replacement at £38.
But my question i will the ball bearing still be in place, what holds it in place.
I would to Not have to removing clutch cover to see if the ball bearing is were it should be.
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Ball Bearing is at the end of the long push rod, clutch side no way to fall out except when you pulled out the long push rod and even then it would be difficult with the oil within in the hollow shaft.
If you put in the new push rod and put the sprocket cover you wont have a functioning clutch if the ball bearing is missing.
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I presently have a functioning clutch sprocket but the push rod is in two pieces.
Ordered a new push rod, and oil seal as well because the break is about 75mm from the sprocket side.
So seal may have been damaged when the rod snapped.
also to get the rest of rod out. I am looking for a small magnet stick on end of one piece and magnetically remove the remaining length from inside or remove old seal and use long nose pliers to get the 2nd part of the rod out....
ordered clutch gasket at same time in case need to take off clutch cover and remove rod from that side....
friends got a low torque wrench for the clutch spring bolts if I need it.
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Bike back on the road....
It cost me..
£15 to have a new rivet nut fitted to chain at bike shop + £5 for rivet nut.
New clutch push rod (£38) fixed the slipping clutch.
A replacement push rod oil seal and a new oil seal/bearing cover plate (£11).
And to fix the damaged casting I used a greased bolt and a load of J-B weld origina, the new formula it has increased strength.
I screwed in the bolt to the end stop and then put the J-B weld all over the exposed screw threads and this created a new casting.
Left it 48hrs to fully cure added some more waited 48hrs to build up the lug...
Then removed the bolt it came away with a nice crack when a bolt releases. new threads formed out of J-B weld.
So used thread lock and a sprung washer to hold the original bolt back in place the lower bolt was torqued up.
I have ridden it 100 miles now and all ok....
Will check on it over the weekend.
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A rivet nut fitted to the chain? Do you have a photo of what that is?
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Nice one getting it fixed, could have been a lot worse. Had a snapped chain on an old WetDream many years ago, went snaking down the road until it snapped again. It was actually caused by the cush drive breaking up which smashed the cast wheel. Not fun!
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sorry typo error not a rivet nut but rivet link.
I fitted a split link first and had the motorcycle shop replace the split link with a rivet one...