Dodgy speedo problem

[papercutout]

This has been bugging me for a while, now I'm finally going to try to get it sorted!

The speedo stays lit, but the needle doesn't move, and the mileage readout disappears. Sometimes it'd reappear and continue as per normal. I've had the front wheel in and out several times during this period, always being very careful to re-align the little plastic spinning speedo cable thing when re-fitting the wheel.


I've traced the wiring to the wiring box under the tank, and it appears to be fine.


If I wiggle the connection block in the back of the speedo, sometimes it'll start working again - but I have checked all the pins, none are bent, and the block is in great condition. I've used electrical component cleaner on it too, to make sure it's fine. Seems likely it's either to do with the block, or the board inside the clocks, any specific recommendations people, or will I just have to take the clocks apart?


Thanks

[tweetytek]

The light has nothing to do with the wheel

I think you have answered your own question... the connector at the back of the clocks is where the problem is, either at loom side or clock side. You will need to start there because as you say, of you wiggle it then you can get some connectivity. Try sanding the terminals clock side and loom side with something like 80 grit. Check for continuity at each terminal in the loom by disconnecting the loom and connect test leads., one lead to the clock side, other lead to the loom side. Test each pin by 'bridging' the gap-of this is okay then replace the loom connectors

[reddave101]

Open up the speedo unit and you will find it will have dry solder joints on the connector block pins on the board. Reflow the solder and you will find that will cure it. For preventive medicine for future, get some thin self adhesive rubber strips and when you put the clock housing back together, run the rubber strip around the joins, to make it completely air tight. Stops moisture getting in. Have to use a bit of force once the rubber strip is in place to put the housing back together, but it will help..

[papercutout]

Thanks guys. It was a mixture of general corrosion (fortunately just the white powdery oxidisation, not rust) and the clocks had obviously been dropped sometime, and the board was cracked through some of the tracks. Dad fixed this for me with a couple of neat joining wires. Years of him building guitar amps as a hobby paid off there! Now the speedo works, my indicators don't flash double time (weirdly), and my fuel gauge works again!