Cheers, I have had a look on google but some of the images when zoomed in on become blurry, i was hoping for some clearer pictures. 

I've run out of duct tape, was thinking of using blu tack but i'm not sure its strong enough 

Ok Guys 'n' Girls, I have made my own chain riveting tool thanks to Youtube for some ideas    Now as i like to do as much of my own work on my bike as i can (I'm a tight Foccer!) I have added a couple of pics & i just want to ask you if you think that it'll do the job!!!


Thank you for your opinions in advance   

As I understand it, a split link is every bit as strong as a riveted link when under the correct tension, which is why a lot of the big top fuel and modified drag bikes use them for easy of maintenance..... But they are only as strong under a pulling load, but when a chain becomes worn and gets lateral side to side movement and under load the weakest point obviously becomes the spring clip.


Now bearing in mind the dragbike argument that most people use to justify the strength of a split link is majorly flawed as most drag bikes have little or no rear suspension movement so therefore very little chain slack compared to a modern road bike and those bikes will have the chains binned after a few race meetings. Where as a road bike will keep that chain for up to 20K (or longer) it will wear enough to give scope for the chain to have some side to side movement especially when downshifting this is enough for a spring clip to potentially fail and therefore have the chain fail.


I hope this clears things up a little.....

Wow! Didn't think of it like that,just assumed a link was a link!!! Rivet link it is then. 

I have a Delkevic on my fzs 600 & had them on my xj900 diversion, nothing wrong with them & imho sound quite good too   

Oh! i'm not keen on dentist  But just to update you, I have been hanging a 5 litre canister of water off the brake lever for a couple of days  & it seems to be coming back now, Thank you all for you help/advice that you have given 

I haven't done it with the pistons pushed fully home but will give it a go. I might even pop the pistons out & give them a polish.(can i polish them?) & try again??

The adjustment is at it's fullest length maybe 2-3 inches!!, if it was any less i would have no brake at all    There is hardly any resistance when pressed but will lock up at lowish speeds,up to 20 mph over that & it helps to slow but thats is? I would like to add that everyone's input is very much appreciated 

Discs & pads are in good nick & the caliper looks weathered but i did give it a good clean inc putting red grease on the pistons,which seem to move freely!!

When i press it down there is no resistance until it nearly hits the stop, I can pump it a dozen times & it doesn't firm up at all? I will have to have another go at bleeding it thursday daytime as i can't do it in the evenings (no light) 

Hi all. I am putting this request for advice here so i can get as many answers as possible! I have fzs600. Yesterday i bled the rear brake because the pedal goes down too far. Now it is still doing it & i have my mot friday. Any help advice to help me get this sorted would be very much appriciated as it is my only transport &  i lack funds to put it in a garage to be fixed.
Thanks in advance.

Awesome, thanks for the info. Just 1 thing there are two sizes of "pitch" 1.00 & 1.25 Any idea which is correct??
Thanks