Love the pr4 but for the dry weather the pp3 ate far superior..
I don't think I have ever had a matching set front and back although have always been Bridgstones I think I may have a matching set now but honestly couldn't say without looking might be batalx 023s. I do fancy a matching set of pp3 after reading up on them, my rear is nearer to be replaced than the front but - an open question, how much benefit would I gain by loosing a bit of money mileage if I change the front early so I have a matching set of pp3s. Also there are deals on cheaper sets rather than buying separate isn't there. Just had a thought that I may even have an excuse to buy a new front based on age alone, but the bike is kept garaged out of the sun - but then again I only ride in the sun .
I have had Bridgestones on the fZS600 ever since i bought it, Battlax 021F & 021R.Very happy with the back, but, not so sure about the front, the front tyre has feathered on the outside edges and have noticed it can be very slightly twitchy even in the dry (I don't do wet) when powering out of bends.I am very happy with the 021R on the ass-end it has never given me an arse clenching moment but the front has caused a little heart burn a couple of times, not that it has ever been a problem really, but it just stepping out 5 or 10mm on a fast bend is enough, plus the feathering is a bit concerning.
Aah, I think you misunderstood.You can spend 50 grand on suspension mods but they still have to be tuned to suit weather conditions and tires. I have a list of suspension changes that my set up requires for different tires (brand and model) under different weather conditions (temperature and precipitation). As an example pr4s require Rear > 23mm pre load, 8 clicks compression, 7 clicks rebound. Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 130mm air gap, 2.5 turns compression and 1.5 turns rebound. But the pp3s (same manufacturer) having such a vastly different side wall construction require. Rear > 24mm pre load, 10 clicks compression, 8 clicks rebound. Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 135mm air gap, 2.125 turns compression and 1.25 turns rebound. All in dry conditions and depending on weather conditions will get changed accordingly even between going to and coming home from work. And don't forget, ride height can also be adjusted as the rear tire wears to slow the process, maintain weight distribution and prevent shear tearing on the front as it becomes over worked due to the changing weight distribution.
Quote from: celticbiker on 02 December 2017, 07:35:10 pmAah, I think you misunderstood.You can spend 50 grand on suspension mods but they still have to be tuned to suit weather conditions and tires. I have a list of suspension changes that my set up requires for different tires (brand and model) under different weather conditions (temperature and precipitation). As an example pr4s require Rear > 23mm pre load, 8 clicks compression, 7 clicks rebound. Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 130mm air gap, 2.5 turns compression and 1.5 turns rebound. But the pp3s (same manufacturer) having such a vastly different side wall construction require. Rear > 24mm pre load, 10 clicks compression, 8 clicks rebound. Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 135mm air gap, 2.125 turns compression and 1.25 turns rebound. All in dry conditions and depending on weather conditions will get changed accordingly even between going to and coming home from work. And don't forget, ride height can also be adjusted as the rear tire wears to slow the process, maintain weight distribution and prevent shear tearing on the front as it becomes over worked due to the changing weight distribution. its quicker to walk Never felt the need to fiddle, maybe - 10 stone at a push (with the UKs finest Sunday dinner onboard ) is just not enough to warrant it. Mind you I only need 1 set up ----dry
I have had Bridgestones on the fZS600 ever since i bought it, Battlax 021F & 021R.Very happy with the back, but, not so sure about the front, the front tyre has feathered on the outside edges and have noticed it can be very slightly twitchy even in the dry (I don't do wet) when powering out of bends.I have a replacement to go on but will leave it until nearer Springtime, the replacement is a Bridgestone T30 Evo for the front.I am very happy with the 021R on the ass-end it has never given me an arse clenching moment but the front has caused a little heart burn a couple of times, not that it has ever been a problem really, but it just stepping out 5 or 10mm on a fast bend is enough, plus the feathering is a bit concerning.I have heard some great things about The Bridgestone T30 Evo apparently 'Ron Haslam' uses them on all his bikes at his racing school.If they are good enough for R............
Hi, sorry to kind of hijack the thread, but I think it's kind of relevant, I've got Dunlop D209 Qualifiers fitted, they're virtually new and I haven't had any issues with them so far but I haven't ridden in the wet yet and I'm a bit nervous about the first time I get caught out because I've read a few reviews saying that they're scary in the rain, has anyone here tried them? if so what did/do you think to them
For me it's not a faff. The changes can be made while the bike is warming up. You'd only be stood waiting anyway. I spent 20 years racing so to me this is just what you do.
Quote from: fazersharp on 02 December 2017, 10:51:37 amI don't think I have ever had a matching set front and back although have always been Bridgstones I think I may have a matching set now but honestly couldn't say without looking might be batalx 023s. I do fancy a matching set of pp3 after reading up on them, my rear is nearer to be replaced than the front but - an open question, how much benefit would I gain by loosing a bit of money mileage if I change the front early so I have a matching set of pp3s. Also there are deals on cheaper sets rather than buying separate isn't there. Just had a thought that I may even have an excuse to buy a new front based on age alone, but the bike is kept garaged out of the sun - but then again I only ride in the sun . Fronts last longer than rears anyway, so if it's still in good nick i'd personally leave it alone and change it when necessary.Or are you just looking for an excuse?