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Messages - ade the blade
26
« on: 03 June 2013, 07:45:17 pm »
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« on: 03 June 2013, 12:27:48 pm »
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« on: 01 June 2013, 11:24:02 pm »
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« on: 01 June 2013, 09:38:46 pm »
wouldn`t worry mate. bear in mind main seal is a pressure seal, hence it being a lot thicker and robust compared to dust seal ( lot thinner ) what you may find over a couple of days is minor weepage out onto piston / rear of pads. just wipe it off if any as it possibly works its way past the dust seal if any. what is bugging me is you say how easy they move !. there are easy and too easy !! if it was me i`d possibly be thinking about possible wear on pressure seals. yes, they obviously need to move `easy` but not too much....just food for thought and my ramblings, sorry !!! 
30
« on: 01 June 2013, 09:02:06 pm »
2.5 turns normally is your starting point. you may have to fine tune them to get the response you require. with regards all at different settings etc, sound doesn`t even come into it. remember, all4 carbs are linked together and in an ideal world what one does the other 3 ideally follow. hence `carb syncing / balancing` so to sum up you are really aiming at having all 4 carbs as close as possible to their neighbour........carb #1 2 turns out, other 3 should be 2 turns out...........long winded, but hopefully helpful. oh with regards sound, the only way i know tpo alter that is to fart about with the end can in particular.....not carbs  hth. cheers Ade
31
« on: 30 May 2013, 07:21:12 pm »
how about splitting the caliper and using a mole grip (or similar) with some rubber (bike inner tube) as protection to get it out to refit it ?
Delboys Garage (Moonfleet41) did a great vid of a caliper stripdown and rebuild on youtube.
might be worth a go.
ah..my matey Delboy. what a really decent and super- doooooper clever guy. been subscribed a while now .........ooops, back on topic, sorry !!
32
« on: 30 May 2013, 09:13:32 am »
Let me ask something.
The oem coils,feed plugs 1 and 3 and the second feed plugs 2 and 4.
On the diagram you have draw the pairs are 1 and 4 ,2 and 3.
Isn't this wrong?
Overall nice mod.
Any difference spotted?
no mate..Tom`s drawing is totally correct. coil nearest frame is for 1 and 4. cheers Ade
33
« on: 29 May 2013, 10:20:55 pm »
if i`m not mistaken, wires leading over to `cap` are the primary circuits ( l.t ) as the coil / h.t circuit / spark plug cap are all combined into one nifty unit. neat little mod that.well done !
34
« on: 28 May 2013, 08:39:11 am »
sticking float,blocked/stuck float valve ?
as above........to recap then, not leccy fault as carbs 3 and 4 have differing amounts of misfire ( both these plugs are `fired `by separate coils ) so chances of both faulty at same time are pretty slim. shit running when `fueled ` in normal manner but revs lovely when fuel is added bypassing carb ( vacuum nipple  )= internal carb issue.......and so we return to Red`s suggestion !! good luck. said it before, sit down with a cuppa ( and possibly a ciggy ) and just think it through. don`t start ripping things apart willy nilly. you know it`s a `fuelling` issue so keep solely in that area
35
« on: 26 May 2013, 05:24:00 pm »
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« on: 20 May 2013, 10:23:25 pm »
possibly cam chain or clutch is my guess 
37
« on: 20 May 2013, 06:17:10 pm »
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« on: 19 May 2013, 10:22:53 pm »
are all your plug caps pushed down fully? if not, then this can give a tapping / clicking sound too
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« on: 19 May 2013, 09:21:33 pm »
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« on: 19 May 2013, 09:16:30 pm »
just remember there are 3 bearings to replace ( 2 in the actual hub and 1 in sprocket carrier ). pop them in the freezer for an hour or so before fitting to `shrink` them slightly to aid fitting. good luck mate . take your time , it aint a race !!
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« on: 17 May 2013, 03:47:48 pm »
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« on: 17 May 2013, 03:43:47 pm »
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« on: 16 May 2013, 07:16:11 pm »
the clues in the backfire......the fuel is getting through but igniting in the wrong place
+1........the fella is right ! ( i think ! )
44
« on: 13 May 2013, 09:10:29 pm »
evening mate......if they are the SMD type then they are a total waste of money. utter shite ! put your old ones back in ........and breathe, everyone i speak to about them aint got any positive comments to give. type SMD bulbs into arsetube and listen to the reactions. sorry ! 
45
« on: 11 May 2013, 09:32:59 pm »
have you tried Big Steves suggestion (spraying wd40 or plain water onto headers to see if #4 is `cold`? coming back to my suggestion of water / condense in carb bowl, this obviously will affect performance / fuel flow across the rev range too. still betting on sparky things
46
« on: 11 May 2013, 07:41:31 pm »
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« on: 11 May 2013, 07:39:12 pm »
my money is still on electrical. if it was fuel then you`d possibly have terrible probs just starting it ! are you getting a nice meaty spark from lead for that plug as strong as the others, if so, is it constant? try trimming back the lead end a little bit. seems strange how it can fire up on the button and then run rough. perhaps that coil pack is breaking up ( think it `sparks` #1 lead too ) play about with the leccy side mate only other possibility is water / condense in #4 float bowl. how much new fuel have you run through the carbs?
48
« on: 11 May 2013, 06:20:01 pm »
you have answered your own question mate...renew plug #4 and all should be well. if engine note shows no change in running then obviously that lead or plug aint doing its thing. switch plug 4 with plug 3 and see if `no change` follows it. good luck.
49
« on: 23 March 2013, 09:19:15 pm »
used it on slider pins etc for years.....very kind on rubber !! most normal greases are petroleum-based which `dissolve` rubber over time. hth
50
« on: 04 March 2013, 11:09:22 am »
do believe thats a chain adjustment / alignment tool.
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