Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: Rusty on 10 August 2012, 10:13:03 am
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Is there a cure for it? The chain is in good condition and correctly lubed/adjusted but I still hear it rustle more than on other bikes I've owned. I was wondering what effect going one tooth up on the rear sprocket might have? Or is the answer simply 'Earplugs'? :lol
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Non OE front sprocket is noisier than stock. Looked at the stock option last time I replaced C&S. For the price difference I decided I could live with the extra noise. Not even noticeable with plugs.
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Hi I run a 46 tooth renthal on the rear, slightly less noise, but not much diff, used to it now after 7 years, case of they all do that sir! :lol
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I just had a DID HD sprocket and chain fitted at BMW (http://www.boltonmotorcycleworkshop.co.uk/) and it's noticably noisier than the one that came off. But if I'm going any distance (ie out for the day), I always use earplugs anyway.
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I've never got on with earplugs.
The chain noise isn't too intrusive - but it is there. It's only when riding through small villages and the sound reflects back from garden walls that I notice it. Unless I'm riding with these lot of course - then I can't hear a feckin thing. :lol
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/Old-Nail/2012-07-10_082813.jpg)
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I can only ever hear general noise and wind roar on my bike...simply cannot filter out any specific chain noise or " tyre noise"....put my earplugs in and can only hear background thrashing noise. And thats over 702k miles of fazer riding !
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i seam to get a lot of wind noise with mine 50mph plus,dont get it with my 600,has a non std yam screen which is just a little higher than std....i have a std screen so will swap and see what difference it makes ;)
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Fit an Akrapovic. Guarantee you won't here your chain! I can't.
Taksi
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I resisted wearing earplugs for far too long. Hated the sensation of having them blocked and worried that I wouldn't be able to hear vehicles lurking in blind spots. The reality is that I got used to the feeling and can still hear the traffic... since everything's quieter the car behind you is still just as audible.
It's never to late to start preventing damage to your hearing, I wish I'd started sooner... sounds above 14kHz are permanently gone for me and bike riding was the cause.
So far as chain noise is concerned, I was surprised how much difference the plastic cushioning on the OE front sprocket makes. It's noticeably quieter (but not worth paying extra).
:eek 700k? Jeez... Pitternator, you must pretty much live on the road!
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I just adjusted mine to the recommended 30mm play yesterday and it whines like a bugger this morning!
Will be slacking off tonight, never made a noise before
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I just adjusted mine to the recommended 30mm play yesterday and it whines like a bugger this morning!
Will be slacking off tonight, never made a noise before
that's way too tight, if your on about gen 1 thou. you need around 45mm slack mate. :)
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you need around 45mm slack mate. :)
Thats what I tell my wife every night :)
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This is driving me nuts now,,, measured it again this morning on the side stand, getting about 40mm play if you measure it from the bottom of the link, then push up and the top of the link is def 40mm. I'm pushint it up as far as it can go and pulling it down with the same amount of force. Checked the markers in the adjustment bit and the are equidistant andprobably a mill past where it started from.
Am I over complicating this? Do you need 40mm difference from the bottom of the chain to the bottom when you push it up :'(
(measured the drive chain slack as shown in the manual,,,,)
Might get the boy to sit on it tonight and remeasure....
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On my old CBR600F3 I could hear the chain at low speed before I changed the exhaust... but every bike since then I have not.
And as for earplugs, I can't ride without 'em.
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This is driving me nuts now,,, measured it again this morning on the side stand, getting about 40mm play if you measure it from the bottom of the link, then push up and the top of the link is def 40mm. I'm pushint it up as far as it can go and pulling it down with the same amount of force. Checked the markers in the adjustment bit and the are equidistant andprobably a mill past where it started from.
Am I over complicating this? Do you need 40mm difference from the bottom of the chain to the bottom when you push it up :'(
(measured the drive chain slack as shown in the manual,,,,)
Might get the boy to sit on it tonight and remeasure....
when you measure chain slack are you checking it on tightest part of chain? You need to spin wheel and measure on different parts of chain, once you have found the tightest spot mark it with a pen and then adjust to that.
Chain develop tight spots as they wear. If you set adjustment to loose part, the tight part will be like a bow string and that's where your whine will come from.
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Forgot to add, once you have adjusted it, sit on it and check slack again. Fzs thou chains do feel very loose compared to other bikes till you sit on it. This is because of the length of swing arm to pivot point. If the chain is hitting bottom chain guide or swing arm viewed underneath, it's way too tight.
Also check your chain has no binding links, a good squirting of WD40 on a rag and soaking in will help that. And a good lube once all is well.
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I found that if I oiled my chain with an oil can (engine oil) and not spray chain lube it was quieter, so I've fitted a Scott oiler and it seem better :D .
Andy
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I'm pushing it up as far as it can go and pulling it down with the same amount of force.
Just re-read my post, phnar phnar!