There is still a load of fake DID parts on Ebay.... the colour of the box isn't right and it contains poor quality Chinese parts.

Ahhh Ok. Sorry sold a set of FZS1000 wheels just before Xmas

As I understand it, a split link is every bit as strong as a riveted link when under the correct tension, which is why a lot of the big top fuel and modified drag bikes use them for easy of maintenance..... But they are only as strong under a pulling load, but when a chain becomes worn and gets lateral side to side movement and under load the weakest point obviously becomes the spring clip.


Now bearing in mind the dragbike argument that most people use to justify the strength of a split link is majorly flawed as most drag bikes have little or no rear suspension movement so therefore very little chain slack compared to a modern road bike and those bikes will have the chains binned after a few race meetings. Where as a road bike will keep that chain for up to 20K (or longer) it will wear enough to give scope for the chain to have some side to side movement especially when downshifting this is enough for a spring clip to potentially fail and therefore have the chain fail.


I hope this clears things up a little.....

Personally I always use EK or JMT chains, but if you replace the chain you need to replace the sprockets as well. Replacing one without the other will just considerably shorten the life of the components.

Out...


If we get our border controls back then less stolen bikes leave our ports in unchecked vans departing for Eastern Europe, demand for stolen bikes drops as they get more difficult to get out of the country, bike thieves who are have a boom time at the moment start looking elsewhere to make money, I can sleep properly at night without worrying that a local toerag is gonna lift my bike in the night and sell it to some Latvian for a wrap of brown and it'll still be there waiting for me in the morning.

I sell them 13.50 Inc vat and postage.... Wemoto ones are too narrow and end up crumbling.

S Baker is Derby way..... Jack from  RF welding in wisbech is worth chatting to as well

Quote from: mtread on 08 February 2016, 05:57:45 pm

Fair enough, but I don't think there's a lot to do in Kettering on a wet Wednesday.

Probably not but her bike will get done properly, how many times have you and do you hear of people having to waste a day waiting for bikes or cars just to get the oil changed???

I have done one on a while you wait..... But it's a loooooonngg day. In all honesty I would rather have the bike a couple of days (I'm getting old and ain't as fast as I once was!.... LOL)

I have done plenty of FZS cam chains although I personally would never fit a split chain and always go for the continuous chain. If supplied with the engine out the job is around 250, if I have to take the engine out and put it back in its around 350.

If it lets go at speed it can fry the clutch plates. Fixed a few now, normally its just a case just replacing the chain and sprockets, pushrod, & pushrod seal..... Sometimes you have to remove the output shaft seal retaining plate and straighten it.

Did you replace the drum when you did the forks?

I do it all the time. The main thing is that once the stud has been broken off flush and drilling is the absolute last resort (don't ffs ever consider EZ outs).

File the stud so you are starting with a flat surface if possible. Take a good quality centre punch and punch a divot in the centre of the broken stud, this will stop the drill "wandering" when you start drilling. (top tip, take a paper towel and dip it in grease and put into the exhaust port, the swarf from drilling will stick to it and not drop down the port into the valve seat)

Start small with a 3mm drill and slowly drill into the stud and try to keep it absolutely straight. If you manage to keep it straight when you get to the 5 mm drill bit it will be possible to "wind out" what is left of the old thread of the original stud and then use a bottoming tap to clean up the threads before winding in a new stud.

If you have wandered off centre which happens to everyone, use a cutting tap to cut the new thread, then a bottoming tap to clean it out. (top tip, before use dip the tap in grease which helps lubricate the cut but also picks up all the metal swarf out of the hole). If the thread feels a little on the loose side then take the tap back out and refit with a coating of stud-lock.

If you have mucked the hole up or cannot be bothered to attempt to recover the original thread then an M6 Wire Thread Insert kit is the way to go, which involves drilling an oversized hole and taping it with an M7 thread and then winding in a insert (looks a bit like a spring) which then forms the replacement thread.