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Topics - hightower
1
« on: 27 September 2014, 09:41:51 am »
Hi. It's evident I'm using oil. Maybe needing to top up every thousand or so miles. By top up I mean the light comes on when going up an incline so it's not totally empty but needing some more at least.
Just checked plugs and they all look clean and unworn so doesn't look like oil getting in. Someone suggested using thicker oil. Can anybody advise on this. Last oil used was motul semi 5000 10w40.
Bike is 2000 plate with about 30k miles
2
« on: 20 July 2014, 06:06:12 pm »
Hi, wondering if you can help identify this Honda: http://martynsmotorcycles.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/PB062587.jpgIt's 2001 registered, has no starter motor (kick only), and is the older looking square headlight. Just trying to figure out which version it is so I can order spares (PS, that's not a photo of mine but same model). THanks,
3
« on: 07 July 2014, 09:47:56 am »
So I overhauled my front calipers earlier this year. They were nice and clean, no grab or anything. I ride in all weather, and now about 4 months later I've got grab to the point I haven't rode in today - I need to clean them up again tonight.
4 months doesn't seem like long before having to reclean, so did I just do a poor job first time round? (I spent longer doing the back and that isn't grabbing yet).
How often do you clean yours? (Quick clean, piston out full clean etc - whatever it is you do)
4
« on: 04 July 2014, 11:23:01 am »
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« on: 19 June 2014, 03:12:25 pm »
Posted in general as not a Fazer, but could use some of your technical expertise. I've got a KZ440 (G1 I believe). Anyway, the frame is the same shape as this image below.  I'm trying to work out how to design the seat for a brat style bike. I quite like these bikes and seat styles but can't see how I can make it fit with my frame. I am 6'4 so I don't mind the seat being stepped up a bit (more area to house battery, better riding position for me) but only if it fits with the overall look of the bike. I'm just after some advice from you guys on what you think, and how I might be able to achieve it. EDIT: I must add I'm not willing to cut the frame, except to detab it - I don't want to modify the frame for a seat to fit, I want to use the frame as it is now. Thanks in anticipation.    EDIT 2: This one looks similar to my frame. 
6
« on: 27 May 2014, 02:50:25 pm »
This is for my KZ hence general forum.
I've just rebuilt the starter, and when I plugged it back in to the battery I got a spark and not much else. I'm sure I've assembled it correctly, but obviously not. What would cause this? Sounds like a short somewhere but not sure where
7
« on: 23 May 2014, 11:43:07 am »
Ok, so not for Fazer hence general section. I'm rebuilding an old KZ, and I started thinking about clear clutch/flywheel/starter motor covers. Has anybody heard of such a thing, and know where I might get some - I would guess they have to be custom made especially for such an old bike.
I just thought it might look a bit 'trick' to show off some workings of the bike.
8
« on: 16 May 2014, 08:52:36 am »
Paid about £130 last year for insurance. Getting quotes for similar policies this year and they're coming in at ~£260 and above.
Need some recommendations guys, not happy about paying twice of last years premium, when I've had no claims and an extra year to throw in to the no claims pot.
9
« on: 15 May 2014, 01:06:39 pm »
I quite fancy taking in maybe the Barry Sheene and Oliver's Mount at Scarborough this year: http://www.auto66.com/roadrace-events.htmMaybe have a ride down, stay for a bit watch etc. However, this is all new to me. Can somebody tell me if it's easy enough to get somewhere good, for free, to see some of the action?
10
« on: 13 May 2014, 11:27:01 am »
I'm trying to decide whether a bench grinder (with a brass wheel addition) would be a worthwhile investment for my garage. I'm just looking at a budget model from toolstation, costing about £30 in total.
I've been told a bench grinder is good to clean corrosion on my brake pad pins and anti-squeal shims. But what other uses would it have?
I'm restoring an '82 Kwak as well this summer, and just trying to figure out if it would be a useful tool to have.
11
« on: 08 May 2014, 04:25:41 pm »
I think I'm on position seven or 3 depending which way the numbers start. Can somebody tell me which way the numbers on the rear preload start. Is 1 at the lowest point on the adjuster (the adjuster I'm referring to looks like steps) or at the top
12
« on: 07 May 2014, 07:07:53 pm »
Getting ready for mot tomorrow and couple of stupid questions if you will all entertain me for a bit.
1) changed rear pads. Discs spot on but pads shot. Also ordered piston seals but didn't realise I didn't have much brake cleaner left, and with mot tomorrow I didn't want to do that job yet. I had enough brake cleaner left to clean up pistons before inserting new pads though. Anyhow, went for spin to test and rear brake is superb. However, the wheel isn't spinning as freely as I might expect when the rear brake isn't applied. It feels fine to ride but on stand spinning it by hand it slows quite quickly. Question: is this OK, not an mot fail, and OK to ride until I get a chance to redo seals and give complete clean?
2) completely redid front brakes about 3 months ago, seals and everything. No problems since, except for last week been getting a small amount of quiet squeel at very low speeds. Took one of the calipers off for a look and piston has small amount of rust (light) as well as edge of pad. Other than that brakes are fine. I'm gonna clean these when new brake cleaner arrives. Question: is this mot fail or is it perfectly acceptable?
Thanks
13
« on: 02 May 2014, 02:31:10 pm »
Ok, so half hour to go at work and I am bored. So here's a new game for all you petrol heads. Similar to the take a picture of your bike next to game, I have attached a zoomed in picture of a bike. First person to get it gets to make their own zoomed in bike picture for us to guess. The trick will be making it zoomed in enough to be obscure so as not obvious, but not too hard (as in give people a chance). Here's first one, hopefully not too easy:  | bike1 |
14
« on: 29 April 2014, 08:48:30 am »
Wondered if anyone here was interested, would prefer local pickup rather than having to ship: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/az-goto/skywatcher-explorer-130p-synscan-az-goto.htmlAutomated system makes finding objects a doddle. Really easy to set up (I can do in about 10-15 minutes). Extras include home-made cables (allowing to be plugged in to PC), a home-made webcam (I’ve made some nice little videos of Jupiter and the moon using this), and a home-made Baader filter (allowing you to view spots on the sun’s surface, when we actually get some sun!). Anyway, the scope is fully functional – the only thing to note is one of the plastic fasteners is cracked on the tripod, but it doesn’t make a difference to the functionality, it still holds the weight of the telescope as expected. If anyone's interested then we'll talk money 
15
« on: 24 April 2014, 08:31:22 am »
Ok, so I need a tent I can use for rallies - looking for something compact (to be able to fit on bike with pillion, pans and so forth). Compact is probably priority 1. Priority 2 is money - don't fancy paying any more than £40. Yes, I am tight.
Third priority is it would be good if it has some storage space etc, to be able to put kit so we're not sleeping on top of it.
Recommendations please.
16
« on: 23 April 2014, 10:13:49 am »
It's now sold out (a very successful rally - has been sold out for a while), but just wondering if I can expect to see any FOC-U members there? I don't think it's been mentioned here, but thought one or two perhaps got themselves a ticket?
17
« on: 21 April 2014, 04:23:19 pm »
Another thread, but hopefully a quick answer for you all.
You know the little rubber bowl under the tank that I think is supposed to catch overflow? That connects to a metal bracket that also holds the airbox on at the front. However, should that metal bracket then have a pipe coming off it? And if so, to where? Just mine hasn't, never has - I guess anything out the overflow will just dump straight down on the engine - should it run to the carb or something instead?
18
« on: 21 April 2014, 02:11:16 pm »
Need some help. Bike is fired up and sounds good - I need to sort downpipes as smoke coming out at head slightly (I think it must just not be sealed tight enough?) Anyway, is it me or is my engine ticking/chugging or does it sound fine?
19
« on: 21 April 2014, 10:02:15 am »
I've put my carbs back on but the throttle is a little sticky. It does snap back sometimes, and others not. What do I need to adjust, or will it sort itself out once it's used daily again?
20
« on: 16 April 2014, 01:38:18 pm »
21
« on: 08 April 2014, 01:03:51 pm »
 Please help. This is my cam on rebuild, the crank is tdc, the markings are a little clockwise of where they were before. Is this OK?this little difference doesn't seem like a tooth's worth. If I rotate the cams 1 tooth anticlockwise the markings then line up after so no closer. Can I accept these timings or will me engine go pop? Here's before pic for more info 
23
« on: 01 April 2014, 08:04:27 am »
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« on: 31 March 2014, 05:10:28 pm »
Got holders off, go to pull camshaft up but not coming. Lifted slightly on right, but not coming on the side nearest the alternator.
Have I missed something? Don't want to pull too hard
25
« on: 31 March 2014, 10:54:25 am »
It's been suggested I clean the valves whilst the head is off. What's the best way to do this (what solutions/tools to clean?), and do I need to replace the valve stem oil seals or can they be reused if in good nick?
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