I've been hounded by problems the last few weeks, it started with my sidelights not working due to a wire coming out of the ignition, sorted that. Throttle cable stick and not returning, think I've solved that. Checked my cam chain tensioner and found it was missing the 2 ball bearings, managed to source these, sorted that. Now I've put it back together gone to start and noticed petrol peeing out of the number 1 carb (left hand side as sat on bike).

Now when I had the carbs off I decided to open up the carb to give a little clean. I only ended up doing the number 1 carb because of a combination of soft metal screws and ridiculously tight screws. They were pretty focced by the previous owner but most of them are looking a little worse for wear now. I put it back together and like a tool that I am decided that "nah the gasket will be fine", it's not. I'm pretty sure that'so where the petrol is leaking

So I've learnt an important lesson always change gaskets and whatever the foc happens don't bother if the screw starts slipping.

I've now got to source some new screws for the carburettor and gaskets. I've seen some on ebay, but I'm honestly starting to lose interest at the moment. Feel like just getting second hand carbs and putting them in save the hassle.

Any tips on getting rounded and very tight screws out? I seen something in halfords called shock and unlock, any good?

Even though I've had a nightmare I've learnt some new skills on the bike though to be fair so I'll try to stay positive

Gonna see if j can source some ball bearings tomorrow then. If I just get  2 ball bearings that fit in the top bolt but not too small do you think that will be ok, as I can't seem to find the bearings on their own.

Good work. Isn't there some kind of issue using a metal nail though, possibly making the brake lever live? Don't suppose it would really cause any problem though.

I've gone through 3 switches too really annoying although it's always been the switch mechanism inside that focs up for me.

I've taken the carbs out the accelerator cable locking nut had come undone at the carb end so I think this was jamming it up and stopping it returning. I'm gonna take the oppurtunity to clean my carbs and check cam chain tensioner as I've never been this far in

Checked the routing this morning. All looked fine. I took the casing off the throttle to get to the cables. The one that pulls when opening the throttle snaps back fine. The other cable tho the pull doesn't have any tension (doesn't snap back when you pull it) in it is that right?

I assumed it was normal with mine but nice to get confirmation. Might sound silly but if I'm leaving it run a little like that (supervised of course), when I'm applying chain lube for instance will it cause any damage? I normally apply a small amount of revs and it's gone anyway.

I'm no expert but I'd agree with you in head gasket.

My bike often dumps a bit of fluid from the overflow. Is it not normal then :S

So I had my bike booked or an MOT. Went out just to check lights and stuff, and noticed that some of the lights weren't working.

Sidelights nothing front or rear. Checked the bulbs but thought unlikely for all three to go. Checked for voltage at bulb holders - nothing. Looked under tank and no visibly loose connections undid them and clicked back in. I checked the continuity from the large white connector under tank to the front bulb holder and that was fine. Couldn't identify where the connector was for the rear holders. Checked the fuses that I know of under the seat.

Please someone tell me there's a secret fuse or something I really don't want to have to pull all the wiring out.

Any help be appreciated.

Looking at these now. I do fancy a set. I'm confused though what's the difference between race and standard?

Changed my chain today and while it was apart I noticed one of my pistons was seized on the rear caliper, anyway many fiddly hours later the brakes are back together and on the bike. It works but it's crap to say the least, it's never been much good. I can't get the rear to lock up if I stamp on it (not that I want to but you know what I'm getting at. Are they just this bad anyway? Or should I strip and replace all the seals and stuff? I bled the brakes and there was no air comin through, do I need to bleed them more? Should the wheel just spin freely as I can hear a little bit I friction from the pads? The pads look quite old to be fair maybe I'll get a new set.

I'm confused, I've had the sprocket cover off to replace the sprocket nut as it had come loose. I've put it back together after a week of not using it and it cranks but will not start. After playing around with it over and over eventually it started, I thought that would be it but same again this morning and when I got to work I turned it off switched straight back on and again same, it wouldn't start. I'm hoping it'll start when I finish later!
The only things I've done to get it started are playing with the sidestand, cranking over and over and pulling in the clutch but there isn't one of those things that solves the problem it just seems to go eventually. I'm was thinking maybe it's the sidestand switch but would it not crank if thats the case? Anyway I can bypass or test this?

I might be interested in buying them off you when that time comes. PM me if you want.

Hey Noggy I'll be keen on the hugger. Let me know, if any I the others don't have it of course. I think I'm quite close to you to too, South Wales?