there is a shit load on ebay matt - ive been eyeing them up myself, but not just yet

well after today i will be more likely to show up on spec
single man again so no one to say i cant go
house viewing on tuesday so might be closer
- someone bring a mid 30s single lady or in 20's who likes older punky blokes lol

Reading the part number it the bearing is a 6200

your laughing a 6200 should be 10x30x9mm
if your local bearing supplier doesnt have it and cant get it within 24hrs get a new bearing suplier
if you get a 6200-2rsh it will have an oil seal on both sides which keeps the grease in - if it is in a live oil area this shouldnt matter but i would go 2rsh

i thought left and right would have been the easiest bit to get right during manufacturing
 i am wondering if the inlets are reversable so the post sits at the bottom and if it would make any difference
- i could go and check but after the morning i have had i have hit the cans and will only move to go to the loo
(although i can hear an ice cream van and it is tempting)

that is one ugly looking swingarm - is it a moto guzzi ?

Rather than gong up 2 teeth on the front, I usually go 1 tooth up on the front and 2 teeth down on the back - pretty much the same overall ratio change, but it also means the standard chain length is perfect.


I'm not a fan of adding just a couple of links - no reason other than my own mental issues of 2 home done links in the one chain

yep the correct way is to do that that, i think the idea here is a quick switch (15 mins to switch and adjust for front sprocket)
im not doing a full maths spreadsheet on this (i said that last time lol)
i have a feeling not everyone here has a paddock stand to do full switches so its just easier
and also its £5 for a front sprocket and much more for a rear so quick switch is worthy of a trial run
-- if we dont test run it we dont know ----

ooh thank god for that

Quote from: celticdog on 04 April 2018, 03:55:48 pm

Quote from: Triggergee on 03 April 2018, 10:20:38 pm

Bad news foccers, 17 tooth doesn't fit  chain just not quite long enough. I'll contact JT at some point and see if I can get extra links for the chain.

The other option, elongate the slots on the swingarm 

Ah cool didn't think of that, don't suppose it really matters where the brake caliber is in relation to the disc. As soon as I've finished cleaning petrol off my kitchen floor from washing out my forks I'll get the angle grinder out and cut out an inch from either side 

STOP  - think what your doing first bloody hell i dont know if your joking or not so i will put this anyway


you will hit your cross brace on the swingarm you will get so close it will at least be rubbing

i have a feeling if you go 17 it will be a remeasure and longer chain so your stuck with it once riveted or throwing money away
i think we are at 110 links standard

i think someone already foresaw that one - ooh yeah me   

ok so going through everything im going to start with your cracked carbs
were they cracked all the way through or just the outside?
all should make sense if they were through and were leaking  UNfiltered air in and the previous owner has increased the pilot screws to let more fuel through to richen up the lean conditions caused by leaking inlets (we good so far)


if there is now no UNfiltered air going in the inlets anymore it draws it through carbs so increases the negative pressure/flow rate in the carbs and in turn the airbox which means more air is needed to flow through the air filter than previously, so a blocked air filter may be to blame here (and would actually make the UNfiltered air coming through the old inlets even worse)


so a combination of things will be causing you issues here
you have already replaced inlets -should only be filtered air now
1. running rich as pilot screws are allowing too much fuel to flow screw them back in a bit to factory
2. air flow is restricted causing a negative pressure which sucks up more fuel making run even richer - pull air filter and replace (worth doing anyhow)


this is just the things that are popping into my head as i read all the problems that you are systematically going through which is the best way

and probably a different spring coil pattern or whatever you would call it

I have never found putting it on the centre stand completely smooth and effortlessly. I have the correct technique, my stand is good but I just don't think the stand is perfectly designed or in the optimum position, look at some of the massive gold wing type bikes and how easy they look (at least to me) to put on the centre stand.   

why mention goldwings - you reminded me of these