Date: 15-06-24  Time: 11:39 am

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Messages - Falcon 269

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1
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Carburetor maintenance kits for Gen 1
« on: 16 April 2024, 08:37:36 am »
Thanks for the tips.

What about the needle valve and seat ?
Do these also tend to wear or it's just the o-rings that seal it ?


It's usually just the O-rings that fail.


In my experience, none of the aftermarket needle valve kits work as well as the OE parts.  Then tend to have different needle spring tension which affects the float level, which is important if your carbs have been 'Ivanized'.

2
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: ais removal kits?
« on: 13 April 2024, 09:44:53 am »
Quick and cheap option - although not the most beautiful - is to cut the pipe on the original AIS fitting about 1 - 1.5" above the existing stub fitting then bend and crimp the short length of pipe.

Personally, I did the tap with small spanner thing, too, but didn't find it a PITA and it took less than 30 mins to do all 4 stubs. :)

3
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: 02 Fazer 1000 cutting out
« on: 09 March 2024, 10:02:35 am »
If it cuts out dead, no misfiring or stuttering prior to stopping, I'd say it's electrical and not fuel-related.  Particularly since it restarts immediately on the button, meaning there must be fuel in the carbs.

Focus on electricals, plenty of suggestions above to point you in the right direction. :)

4
I would put money on the fact that any useful info in the article was derived from our FAQs :)

5
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Not sure if my carbs have been jetted
« on: 30 January 2024, 09:36:36 am »
There is another way, although not quite as iron-clad as checking the main jet size.

Remove one of the carb tops and check out the throttle slide spring and the needle.

If the slide spring has been cut - it will be pretty obvious if you compare the ends of the spring - there's a good chance that it's been re-jetted.

Now, check the needle.  If it has SD-130 stamped on it, it's stock and it will have a straight-line taper. 

If it's not stamped SD-130 (poss SD-110, there are two needle part numbers, one type for the inner two carbs, the other type on the outers), it will be an aftermarket needle. 

If you're unlucky, it will be Dynojet needles (which are same taper as stock, just mounted higher) but odds are in the USA that you will have one of Ivan's kits installed.  His needles have 5 very subtle changes in the taper along the length of the needle.

Since your bike is running perfectly, my money is on yours having Ivan's Inside, and because the airbox is stock, I suspect it's his Slip-On kit.

This should work fine with a set of Holeshot headers but not sure that Dale would agree ... ;)

6
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 21 October 2023, 01:08:44 pm »
Looks like you had a brilliant trip. :)

Good to hear the Fazer is running well again after the troubles you had a while ago.

7
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 23 August 2023, 02:44:15 pm »
Good find!  That's a relief, no?  As you said, a simple thing but often easy to miss when you're fault-finding.  I'm very glad that it was a quick fix once you looked in the right area.  Christian is an awesome source of knowledge and ideas. :)

I sold my Fazer back in 2020 and the R1 in early 2021, just before we moved back to the UK from Spain.  Too much expense and hassle to ship them back, although the value of original 4XV R1s in totally standard condition - like mine was - has gone up considerably.

Currently no bike in the garage and it will probably stay that way.  I guess riding in Spanish weather on empty roads spoiled me too much!

Cheers :)

8
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 22 August 2023, 10:09:04 am »
Good morning, Julius. :)

The links you posted for Christian's site are very helpful.  I wish I'd had them while I still owned my Fazer and R1.  If he's happy with fitting lithium to the Fazer, that's good enough for me.

If I still had the Fazer, I think I would follow his advice to improve the wiring for the headlights and the earth connections.  You might find the latter useful if you have earthing problems on your bike.

I also found his observations on the ignition lock (we usually call it the ignition switch) good, too.  It reminded me of a problem I had with my Fazer which was traced to the red connector block wiring, same as in the photos in this link

https://cvieth-bplaced-net.translate.goog/motorrad_elektronik.html?_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en

You can test the earth connectivity in the way you indicate but I tend to physically inspect earths as well.  Remove the earth cable bolts, clean the contacts and refit.  As Christian notes, there's only one earth point to the chassis through the starter motor.  Make sure that is all good.

It's looking increasingly like your problem is voltage-related.  Hope you find it soon!

Cheers :)


9
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 21 August 2023, 11:53:20 pm »
Another thought occurred to me.  I assume that your lithium battery has a good BMS inside to regulate the voltage going into the battery from your alternator. 

I don't know much about lithium batteries on motorcycles but I am aware that they are voltage-sensitive and the charging output of older motorcycle systems isn't always compatible with them.  Also, if you have any issues with low output from your alternator your battery may not be charging as it should:


10
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 21 August 2023, 11:26:41 pm »
Don't you just love random faults?  No, didn't think so ... ;)

With Unfazed on the case you're in the best hands but a few thoughts from me:

Plug caps shouldn't just pull off the lead.  It should be a really secure, screwed-in connection.  This sounds suspect to me.

Also, it sounds like you have a battery voltage drop issue - potentially not charging - which could explain why it ran fine for a short while after you boosted the battery, then started misfiring as the battery voltage dropped. 

The contacts inside the rectifier plug look fine but have you inspected the cables where they enter the connector block?  Look for signs of overheating or other damage. 

You haven't mentioned if you checked the earth connections.  Many intermittent electrical faults have their root in dodgy earths.

A useful thread on replacing the reg/rec connector block to eliminate that as a cause/future source of problems

http://www.fz1oa.com/eskortsdefectiveconnectorreplacement.shtml



11
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 21 August 2023, 08:50:53 am »
Do this test at idle on the centrestand.  You don't need to remove the plugs.  Just pull a plug cap off the plug and see if that alters the way the motor is running.  It should be obvious if that cylinder stops firing.  If nothing changes, however, it indicates that the cylinder is already failing to fire, so you know which one is giving you problems. :)

However, before doing any of this, remove each plug cap from the ignition lead and trim 1cm off the lead.  Then screw the cap back into the lead.  Reason for doing this is that over time, the core of the plug lead corrodes and fractures causing a poor contact and weak spark.  With luck, this might be the reason for your misfire.  You'll know soon enough ... :)

12
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: breaking down fzs 1000
« on: 20 August 2023, 04:02:16 pm »
Apologies but have to ask ... have you fitted the fuel filter with the flow arrows in the correct direction?

How many miles ago did you fit the new fuel filter? 

Any issues with the fuel tap when you changed the filter?

13
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 20 August 2023, 03:57:57 pm »
What a PITA. :(

First, I suggest assume nothing.  New spark plugs can fail, cleaned carbs can still have bits of crud which get dislodged after a few hundred kms use - particularly if you've used all the power!

I'd start by pulling each plug cap in turn to see if the misfire is electrical - ie, plug, plug cap or plug lead.

If you can't pin it down to electrics, start by taking the carb tops off to check that the needles and diaphragms are OK. 

Check the fuel filter.

Check the air filter and the air intake. 

I don't think it's EXUP-related as a stuck/misaligned valve won't cause those symptoms.

Check electrical connections and earths.  Take a close look at the multi-pin connector under the left side of the tank - the one in the rubber boot that you would have moved doing the Ivan's installation.

You are probably thinking to pull the carbs straight away but eliminate other possibilities first.

Good luck! :)

14
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Ivan’s UK fitting
« on: 03 July 2023, 07:23:19 am »
Sounds like a bit of blockage in the pilot jet(s), possibly a little gummed up after standing for months.

Yes, good idea to fit Ivan's kit if you're pulling the carbs to clean the pilots.  For most owners, removing/refitting the carbs is the hardest part of the installation, although it's actually pretty easy if done the right way. :)

Give me a shout if you want any advice.

15
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 12 May 2023, 05:24:16 pm »
That's good news all round, Julius.  Congratulations on the all the work you've done - hope summer is good where you are to let you enjoy the improvements to the max!

:)

Mike

16
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 08 May 2023, 03:16:40 pm »
Did you fit replacement aftermarket float needles, Julius?  If so, that might be the source of your problem.  I've had to remove those from a couple of bikes when owners had used them instead of genuine Yamaha parts and suffered issues such as yours. 

The spring-loaded plunger in the needle body is slightly different in length - and possibly spring pressure - which makes it hard to achieve the correct fuel level using Ivan's instructions.


17
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 08 May 2023, 10:12:51 am »
Either a stuck float needle or a leaking float needle valve O-ring.


Before removing carbs, try tapping the affected carb body to see if you can shake the float loose.




18
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 04 May 2023, 02:19:30 pm »
Hi J,


Neat job with the airbox lid - only just seen your photo.  That will work fine. :)


I'm confident that 4 turns will be good.  If you put the bike on a dyno, a tuner might feel the need to make minor adjustment but really, you'd never notice the difference on the road.


Looking forward to hearing your thoughts once the job is complete.

19
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 01 May 2023, 06:23:16 am »
Just halved is fine. :)

Carbs in/out gets easier every time you do it.

20
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 30 April 2023, 06:58:51 am »


Btw, to remove the throttle cables I didn't stick the carb into manifold one but just leaned the seat against the bike and used it as a stand which was very comfortable.


Good idea!  I'll give a try next time I do one of these ... ;)  :lol

21
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 29 April 2023, 08:41:17 am »
Well done to get the kit installed but for others following your lead, a couple of observations to hopefully make the job less physical ... ;)

No need for lashing straps to hold the airbox back.  Just tighten the top airbox retaining bolt.  The key is to make sure you move the EXUP cables and breather hose from between the airbox and the frame so that you can slide it fully back in the first place.  Also, make sure the rubber tank support pad on the frame cross member - the one that's zip-tied in place - hasn't rotated to a position where it fouls the airbox.

I used to remove the throttle cables at the grip end but stopped doing that after the first couple of dozen installations.  It took too long. :)  Instead, wind in the adjuster at the throttle end to give maximum slack for when you remove the cables at the carb pulley end. The trick here is to ease the carbs across the back of the engine and then out to the left side and forward slightly.  Balance the carb bank on your knee and use both hands to remove the cable nipples from the pulley.  The top one comes out really easily.  The lower one requires you to rotate the pulley and use a hooked tool to slip the cable off the pulley.  You might want to put something over the cam box cover to protect it from scratching in case you bang the carbs against it. 

NB.  I think Ivan himself moves the carbs across to the left and then pushes #3 & 4 carbs into stubs #1 & 2 to hold them while he unhooks the cables from the side.  I've never tried that method, mine was just too easy for me. :)

No criticism intended here but if the carbs can be removed in 15 - 20 minutes using the right techniques and tools, it is not fundamentally a difficult task. :)  Refitting takes 20 - 25 minutes, allowing for checking that everything is correctly in place and tightened properly.

Which leads me to refitting the carbs into the intake stubs.  If you don't need a crowbar to get them out of the stubs, you don't need straps and levers and Lord knows what else to refit them. ;) 

Use silicone lube, soap or whatever to lube the intake stubs and the airbox connector tubes.  Make sure that the clamps on the intake stubs are correctly positioned and not constricting the stub.

Once you have slid the carbs across to the correct position, offer them to the intake stubs but don't push at this stage. Rotate the carbs up and down slightly until you feel them centre in all the stubs, then start to push.  I found that having them angled slightly below level and tilting them upwards as I pressed them in worked best.  If they don't want to go in, back off and reposition them again. Brute force is not necessary.  If you have to resort to force, you're doing it the wrong way. :)

Handy hint.  If you're doing this on a cold engine/cold day, use a hair dryer to warm the stubs to make them more pliable.

Nice one, Julius - good luck with the rest of your work and please let us know when it's up and running.  :thumbup

22
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Removing the Flywheel
« on: 08 March 2023, 10:58:06 pm »
As my dad says:

"Don't force it, son, use a bigger hammer"

Glad you got it sorted. :)

23
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Removing the Flywheel
« on: 08 March 2023, 03:34:12 pm »
Try heating it with a heat gun then use an impact driver on the puller.

I recall these can be a tough nut to crack but persevere and you'll get it eventually. :)

24
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Headgasket fazer1000 gen 1
« on: 06 March 2023, 11:52:25 pm »
Are you doing this to increase compression ratio or because you suspect the head is warped?

I seem to recall that a better solution to increase compression ratio is to use an R1 head gasket (possibly a competition gasket).  To get the best results the cams need to be degree'd differently, too. 

25
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 01 March 2023, 09:37:08 am »

After doing this mod for several years, I settled on enlarging just one of the three pilot bypass holes (the middle one) and set the mixture screws to 4 turns out.



You also shorten the springs 12mm instead of 19mm, right?


Yes. 


As the bikes I was working on got older, I found that the springs became slightly shorter after years under compression.  If you cut the spring too short, it starts to lose control over the slide. 


Cutting it to 12mm also allowed a bit more excess to bend over to the horizontal, which prevents the spring end snagging in the carb top cap.

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