Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
General => General => Topic started by: Grahamm on 03 November 2021, 05:37:19 pm
-
Ok, so we have the "what did you do with your Fazer" thread, but I've been going through the list of things that I want to do on my FZ6 this winter and was somewhat surprised at how many items are on it!
Nothing is safety critical, but they're things that I've been meaning to do for a while, just not done because other stuff has taken up my time.
I normally ride all year round, but at the moment I don't have anything on my calendar which I'm going to need it for, so here's what's on the list:
1) Sort the throttle out.
For some reason, there's a point at which it "sticks" for a moment when I open it. It's not a major issue and it's not like it jams or anything, but it means the power delivery isn't as smooth as I like.
Also, whilst I've got the grip off I'm going to put some silicone lube on the cables.
2) Lube the clutch cable.
Like with the throttle, the clutch isn't quite as smooth as it should be, so some silicone lube on that won't go amiss. Also I probably should check the free play which I've been meaning to do, but never got around to over the summer.
3) Balance the throttle bodies.
I'm actually not sure that there might not be a vacuum leak on cylinder 4, because that's the one the Scotoiler was linked to, but I found out earlier this year that it wasn't delivering the oil as it should. I replaced the oiler tubing (which had a hole in, probably didn't help!) and then the oil reservoir/ pump, but that didn't solve the issue until I moved the connector to cylinder 3.
4) Check the valve clearances.
I've been meaning to learn to do this for myself, rather than taking it to the workshop and, because I've got the old engine that died a couple of years ago, I can practice on that before I do it for real, just in case I mess anything up! The engine is over the 24,000 miles point, so it's a good time to do it.
5) Fix the instrument cluster display.
When we had the thunderstorms a few weeks back, instead of being parked in the shed, the bike was on my sister's driveway as I was staying there and water got into the cluster, making the display fade out. Fortunately I've taken it apart before, so it's a much easier job this time, but it's a hassle having to take off the fairings etc.
6) Bleed the brakes.
Since I put the HEL braided lines on, the braking has become a lot more effective and the feel is better, but I'm thinking it's always a good idea to check that they're still in tip-top condition.
7) Everything else...!
Lots of little bits, like, recently, on a Group Ride, we were on a bumpy country road and I lost my right hand blind spot mirror :( I hadn't had one for ages, but, when I put it on, I realised how helpful it was and now I miss it!
The bike needs a wash after getting caught in the rain and I should re-do the ACF 50 after I've given the downpipes a polish.
Put a new connector on the Optimate Lead. For some reason, when the bike is on charge (I also use the lead to supply power to the TomTom Sat Nav cradle) it loses connection. I've tried cleaning the contacts, but I think there may be corrosion on the other side which is causing an issue.
As I said, none of these are safety critical issues that would eg cause an MOT fail, but I've just been busy with other stuff, so not got around to them for months...!
What about the rest of you? Got any plans/ upgrades/ tweaks you're going to do?
-
Nothing much for me this winter. Normal maintenance late winter/spring time ie full service. Valve clearances are due in another 2k, might leave that till next winter. Gonna continue to ride if the weather is pleasant enough, avoiding the salt. Wash coming up, then like Graham, it'll get a waft over of ACF50. Currently musing over getting another bike, solely for the track. Mid noughties supersport 600, but which one?
-
Clutch cable shouldn't really be lubed.
I just fitted a Slinky Glide clutch cable from Wemoto, and it feels very light and smooth. Plus I sprayed a load of grease into the clutch cable housing too while it was off, which no doubt helped things a bit as well.
-
#1. Fit the Ivan's kit arriving in a couple of weeks.
#2. Touch up paint work where required.
#3. Fit new pair of tyres - thinking of PR 5's or Avon XDM's(?)
#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.
#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........
-
Clutch cable shouldn't really be lubed.
I just fitted a Slinky Glide clutch cable from Wemoto, and it feels very light and smooth.
I've got the same one, but it's been on there for a while now and it doesn't work as well as it might sometimes when I'm trying to feather the clutch.
According to some blurb I've found: "Constructed to extremely high standards, all Slinky Glide cables are coated with a rust and freeze resistant compound, plus a polyamide lining inside the outer cable which further reduces friction and wear as well as providing smooth operation."
The cable's been on there for a few years now (annoyingly I can't find the receipt saying exactly when I bought it) so I think I'll drop Slinky Glide an email and see what they say (although they'll probably just say replace it!)
-
#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.
You can buy a Drop Tester from eBay for about £20 which is a cheap way of checking if a battery is good and saves replacing it just to find out!
It also saves the hassle of trying to find a local garage that will check it for you ;)
#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........
Yep, that's what I kept doing when I started compiling my list.
Actually your point #1 has reminded me that there are some small scratches on my tank that I'd like to put some T-Cut on...
-
According to some blurb I've found: "Constructed to extremely high standards, all Slinky Glide cables are coated with a rust and freeze resistant compound, plus a polyamide lining inside the outer cable which further reduces friction and wear as well as providing smooth operation."
The cable's been on there for a few years now (annoyingly I can't find the receipt saying exactly when I bought it) so I think I'll drop Slinky Glide an email and see what they say (although they'll probably just say replace it!)
Well, I sent them a mail asking if I could use silicone or lithium spray lube and got a very quick reply back:
You can use them, however, we would recommend PTFE White Grease.
A spray can of this appears to be £6 on eBay, so time to buy some... :)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/20032533660 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/20032533660)
-
ehhh... I'll be riding mine as usual....it had a going over with ACF50 a couple of years ago.. and that's about it..
:rollin
-
Clutch cable shouldn't really be lubed.
I just fitted a Slinky Glide clutch cable from Wemoto, and it feels very light and smooth.
I've got the same one, but it's been on there for a while now and it doesn't work as well as it might sometimes when I'm trying to feather the clutch.
According to some blurb I've found: "Constructed to extremely high standards, all Slinky Glide cables are coated with a rust and freeze resistant compound, plus a polyamide lining inside the outer cable which further reduces friction and wear as well as providing smooth operation."
The cable's been on there for a few years now (annoyingly I can't find the receipt saying exactly when I bought it) so I think I'll drop Slinky Glide an email and see what they say (although they'll probably just say replace it!)
I bought it ages ago and kept it in my top box just as a spare. But I wanted to grease the bearings in the housing so thought I'd change it while I was doing it.
Found one strand of cable had broken at the lever end so I timed it bang on fortunately.
-
Found one strand of cable had broken at the lever end so I timed it bang on fortunately.
Phew! Definitely very fortunate.
It's often one of those things that you don't bother about until *snap* and you think "Damn, I wish I'd checked that more recently..." :'(
-
Having seen a post by someone on the Facebook group who had polished up their fork lowers, that reminds me that I really wanted to clean up and repaint mine as they've become rather battered after many years of road grit etc.
-
#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.
You can buy a Drop Tester from eBay for about £20 which is a cheap way of checking if a battery is good and saves replacing it just to find out!
It also saves the hassle of trying to find a local garage that will check it for you ;)
#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........
Yep, that's what I kept doing when I started compiling my list.
Actually your point #1 has reminded me that there are some small scratches on my tank that I'd like to put some T-Cut on...
Lol - I don't check batteries with a load tester. It loads the battery too quickly, heating up the plates, which then distort and shed sulphate across the lower portion of the cell. The battery then won't take or hold a charge.
-
It will sit under a cover for most of it, I will have to deal with dead batteries and the spectre of E10.
-
Lol - I don't check batteries with a load tester. It loads the battery too quickly, heating up the plates, which then distort and shed sulphate across the lower portion of the cell. The battery then won't take or hold a charge.
I've never heard of that before and I know several garages that use load testers to make sure a battery is good (not simply to screw it up so they can sell you a new one!)
Do you have any links regarding this, especially with the gel type batteries that bikes tend to use?
Mine is always on the Optimate in the shed when it's not being used and that has a Desulphate mode if it's ever needed.
-
#1. Fit the Ivan's kit arriving in a couple of weeks.
#2. Touch up paint work where required.
#3. Fit new pair of tyres - thinking of PR 5's or Avon XDM's(?)
#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.
#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........
Shame you didn't have the Ivanising kit when you changed the throttle cables, as you'd done all the hard work getting the carbs off.
For me, other than a repair to the Ermax undertray, an oil/filter change and an exup valve service there's nothing pressing to be done to the Fazer. Got all my planned powder coating done last winter, so the bikes as good as ready for next season.
-
Lol - I don't check batteries with a load tester. It loads the battery too quickly, heating up the plates, which then distort and shed sulphate across the lower portion of the cell. The battery then won't take or hold a charge.
I've never heard of that before and I know several garages that use load testers to make sure a battery is good (not simply to screw it up so they can sell you a new one!)
Do you have any links regarding this, especially with the gel type batteries that bikes tend to use?
Mine is always on the Optimate in the shed when it's not being used and that has a Desulphate mode if it's ever needed.
Its primarily found on Lead/Acid and not Gel batteries. I work in the light aircraft industry and by regulation we have to load check the battery at least once a year (we call it a capacity check - sometimes get checked more depending on manufacturer or type of operation). It's well known that this process shortens the life of the battery considerably and a lot of Licenced Aircraft Engineers don't do it as these batteries can be anything between £300 - £600 each depending on voltage and size.
I utilise this knowledge and once my batteries start to be unhappy crankers, then they get replaced - I don't fancy getting stuck anywhere or worse than that not being able to get out :eek .
Optimates are okay, all three of my bikes are hooked up, but like anything nowadays, they can't do the impossible :'(
-
#1. Fit the Ivan's kit arriving in a couple of weeks.
#2. Touch up paint work where required.
#3. Fit new pair of tyres - thinking of PR 5's or Avon XDM's(?)
#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.
#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........
Shame you didn't have the Ivanising kit when you changed the throttle cables, as you'd done all the hard work getting the carbs off.
For me, other than a repair to the Ermax undertray, an oil/filter change and an exup valve service there's nothing pressing to be done to the Fazer. Got all my planned powder coating done last winter, so the bikes as good as ready for next season.
Tell me about it :'( :'( :'(
Still, it means a few hours in the nasty cold garage, with the smell of E10 wafting around - WITHOUT THE GRANDKIDS :rollin :rollin :rollin
-
Its primarily found on Lead/Acid and not Gel batteries.
Ah, right, thanks for the clarification.
Optimates are okay, all three of my bikes are hooked up, but like anything nowadays, they can't do the impossible :'(
I've had around 6 years out of a battery using the Optimate. Generally they're only rated for 2-4 years before they need replacement!
-
As mentioned in the "What did you do with your Fazer today?" thread, I ticked several items off the list, but, whilst I was doing that work and generally checking things over, I've also added a bunch more to the "to do" list...
It' approaching 12,000 miles since most of these were done, so they're worth sorting out now:
New oil filter and oil change.
New air filter
New spark plugs.
New chain and sprockets (This doesn't absolutely need doing yet, but the front sprocket is starting to feel slightly hooked)
Replace the throttle cables (even though I've lubed the old ones, it still has the OEM 2006 ones on there! :eek )
Replace the clutch cable (if the cable lube doesn't help smooth things out)
So I've just paid Wemoto £180 for all the bits...
-
As mentioned in the "What did you do with your Fazer today?" thread, I ticked several items off the list, but, whilst I was doing that work and generally checking things over, I've also added a bunch more to the "to do" list...
It' approaching 12,000 miles since most of these were done, so they're worth sorting out now:
New oil filter and oil change.
New air filter
New spark plugs.
New chain and sprockets (This doesn't absolutely need doing yet, but the front sprocket is starting to feel slightly hooked)
Replace the throttle cables (even though I've lubed the old ones, it still has the OEM 2006 ones on there! :eek )
Replace the clutch cable (if the cable lube doesn't help smooth things out)
So I've just paid Wemoto £180 for all the bits...
Which clutch cable did you go for? I'm really liking this Slinky one from Wemoto, as it seems to feel very smooth and effortless.
-
Which clutch cable did you go for? I'm really liking this Slinky one from Wemoto, as it seems to feel very smooth and effortless.
The current one is a Slinkyglide (as are the throttle cables I'm buying) and I was happy with it as the previous one was getting stiff.
It probably doesn't need replacing yet, but if the lube doesn't work on the current one (which may be stiff just because it's spent a lot of time sitting around not being ridden) I'll swap them over and it's always good to have a spare!
-
#1. Fit the Ivan's kit arriving in a couple of weeks.
#2. Touch up paint work where required.
#3. Fit new pair of tyres - thinking of PR 5's or Avon XDM's(?)
#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.
#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........
Shame you didn't have the Ivanising kit when you changed the throttle cables, as you'd done all the hard work getting the carbs off.
For me, other than a repair to the Ermax undertray, an oil/filter change and an exup valve service there's nothing pressing to be done to the Fazer. Got all my planned powder coating done last winter, so the bikes as good as ready for next season.
Tell me about it :'( :'( :'(
Still, it means a few hours in the nasty cold garage, with the smell of E10 wafting around - WITHOUT THE GRANDKIDS :rollin :rollin :rollin
And item #1. has arrived.
Still considering #3. Avon XDM's appear to be popular for the Fazer Thou.
-
Not got a huge amount planned for the winter TBH. I serviced my FZ6 back in October, oil, filters, fresh coolant, brake fluid etc. Flew through MOT no-hassle last month. I'm now living in Scotland, so I'll probably only be riding the odd day when the weather allows, but I do now have a garage to keep it out of the elements and on the trickle charger. But no upgrades to the bike planned. I could do with reevaluating the air horn I've mounted under the fairing, it hangs down a fraction too much and very occasionally hits the front fender when the forks fully compress. But that's been on the list for some time now...
My main winter focus is going to be getting everything straight in our new house and organising the garage. I would like to kit it out with some nice workshop cupboards, worktops, bike ramp etc, but due to lack of funds after the move, that'll have to be a longer-term plan.
Otherwise, winter is the time I finally get round to doing something with all that video footage I shot in the summer. Hopefully, it's not all shit and I can cut something vaguely interesting out of it...
-
Delivery from WeMoto:
New clutch and throttle cables, new air and oil filters and new chain and sprockets.
Oh, and a replacement spring for the left footpeg as the old one broke and it keeps getting stuck in the "up" position when I'm moving the bike around which can be a PITA when I get on and I'm trying to find it with my boot!
Now, which to do first...?! :book
-
Delivery from WeMoto:
New clutch and throttle cables, new air and oil filters and new chain and sprockets.
Oh, and a replacement spring for the left footpeg as the old one broke and it keeps getting stuck in the "up" position when I'm moving the bike around which can be a PITA when I get on and I'm trying to find it with my boot!
Now, which to do first...?! :book
Hmm tough one, start with the easiest thing and work your way up?
-
Other than ride it whenever possible got a few jobs on the back burner, from changing the handlebar grips to greasing the swing arm and rear suspension linkages, let's see if I get them all done this winter
-
try to put the thing back together
-
Clutch cable shouldn't really be lubed.
I just fitted a Slinky Glide clutch cable from Wemoto, and it feels very light and smooth. Plus I sprayed a load of grease into the clutch cable housing too while it was off, which no doubt helped things a bit as well.
Just an update on the Slinky Glide clutch cable, it lasted 7 months.
For the last month or so I had to keep adjusting it, then after a couple of times of adjusting it from the bottom end as well I realised that it had had enough when the top adjuster had no more to give.
Bear in mind these cables cost under a tenner, and an OEM one cost me £55, which I fitted this morning, but even still I would've expected it to last a bit longer than that.
It started off feeling a bit stiffer than it should be so I oiled the cable, which did help, but it was all far too soon, I shouldn't have needed to do that after only a few months.
-
I’ve always bitten the bullet and bought oem cables and brake pads, even though the prices are a real wallet stretcher :'( . The cables I changed purely as a precaution, nothing wrong with them, just didn’t want a failure to spoil any trip I might be on. Buy cheap, buy twice is still relevant I think. Plus the fact the job has to be done twice.
-
I’ve always bitten the bullet and bought oem cables and brake pads, even though the prices are a real wallet stretcher :'( . The cables I changed purely as a precaution, nothing wrong with them, just didn’t want a failure to spoil any trip I might be on. Buy cheap, buy twice is still relevant I think. Plus the fact the job has to be done twice.
In this case I could've bought 5 times. I know OEM stuff can be overpriced, but it generally is far superior.
At first the Slinky cable felt great, as it should do when new, but performance went 'rapidly' downhill.
Had 2 people ask me straight away if I compared the lengths of each cable out of curiosity, but as I pulled the new one through taped to the old one it wasn't really an option.
-
I’ve always bitten the bullet and bought oem cables and brake pads, even though the prices are a real wallet stretcher :'( . The cables I changed purely as a precaution, nothing wrong with them, just didn’t want a failure to spoil any trip I might be on. Buy cheap, buy twice is still relevant I think. Plus the fact the job has to be done twice.
As for brake pads, i've used SBS Ceramic on the rear and Galfer on the front for ages, which have both served me very well. But i couldn't find the Galfer pads at a sensible price last time so gave the Street 634HS SBS pads a go for the front after reading advice on here over the years and i must confess i'm liking them a lot so will stick with them from now on. They were even cheaper than the Galfer pads too, which was a nice bonus. 8)
-
23K miles now so I guess Id better have a look at the valve clearances. But not until winter
-
Clutch cable shouldn't really be lubed.
I just fitted a Slinky Glide clutch cable from Wemoto, and it feels very light and smooth. Plus I sprayed a load of grease into the clutch cable housing too while it was off, which no doubt helped things a bit as well.
Just an update on the Slinky Glide clutch cable, it lasted 7 months.
For the last month or so I had to keep adjusting it, then after a couple of times of adjusting it from the bottom end as well I realised that it had had enough when the top adjuster had no more to give.
Bear in mind these cables cost under a tenner, and an OEM one cost me £55, which I fitted this morning, but even still I would've expected it to last a bit longer than that.
It started off feeling a bit stiffer than it should be so I oiled the cable, which did help, but it was all far too soon, I shouldn't have needed to do that after only a few months.
I think it's only fair on people that I should retract the comments about the Slinky Glide clutch cable, as it turned out that my clutch pressure plate was fractured and not performing correctly, causing irregular and random action.
So I basically binned what was probably a good cable.
OEM will always be better, but don't be put off trying out the Slinky Glide cable if you're on a budget.
-
I once fitted a slinky glide on one of my other bikes, it lasted maybe a month. It was supplied with a plastic ferrule (the sleeve that fits inside the hole in the lever) and it rapidly became chewed up. The original had a metal sleeve and the sleeve was still as new, so I fitted the old sleeve onto the new cable. Basically, the plastic sleeve wasn't fit for purpose.
-
23K miles now so I guess Id better have a look at the valve clearances. But not until winter
and I think i'll add new chain and sprockets too, plus two new tyres in the new year
-
Ride it :D
-
I once fitted a slinky glide on one of my other bikes, it lasted maybe a month. It was supplied with a plastic ferrule (the sleeve that fits inside the hole in the lever) and it rapidly became chewed up. The original had a metal sleeve and the sleeve was still as new, so I fitted the old sleeve onto the new cable. Basically, the plastic sleeve wasn't fit for purpose.
That plastic ferrule caught my eye as well now you said that, and I thought it was a bit odd too as it will have lever pressure constantly pulling on it.
Certainly worth bearing in mind.
-
23K miles now so I guess Id better have a look at the valve clearances. But not until winter
and I think i'll add new chain and sprockets too, plus two new tyres in the new year
Funnily enough I was just talking about changing my rear tyre a few minutes ago.
I have a PR4 on at the moment but although I absolutely love the grip and handling of it, this particular tyre has given me nothing but grief from day 1, from leaking rims, a leaking internal patch/plug, and even had trouble when it was being fitted.
I ordered another (from abroad) over a year ago but I accidentally ordered a different model.
In two minds to ask if the shop will do a swap for another PR4 with a bit of cash on top, as I really trust those tyres.
The one I got looks like it'll be fine in wet or dry weather, but not so confident about what it might be like in frosty/icy weather, and I ride all year round so it is a big deal for me.
-
After my trip to the Bol d’Or later this month it will be time for the valve clearances to be checked again. Whilst the radiator is out I might consider getting it recored, more as a precaution against future failure than anything else. When my rear tyre was fitted in the spring, the company’s new employee managed to damage the powder coating on the rim, so that will be redone at their expense at the same time.
-
I’ve always bitten the bullet and bought oem cables and brake pads, even though the prices are a real wallet stretcher :'( . The cables I changed purely as a precaution, nothing wrong with them, just didn’t want a failure to spoil any trip I might be on. Buy cheap, buy twice is still relevant I think. Plus the fact the job has to be done twice.
As for brake pads, i've used SBS Ceramic on the rear and Galfer on the front for ages, which have both served me very well. But i couldn't find the Galfer pads at a sensible price last time so gave the Street 634HS SBS pads a go for the front after reading advice on here over the years and i must confess i'm liking them a lot so will stick with them from now on. They were even cheaper than the Galfer pads too, which was a nice bonus. 8)
Little update on the SBS front pads. As a pad, brilliant, in wet or dry, I can't fault them in that respect.
Thing is, I always used to harp on about how good the Galfer pads were and how they lasted ages but at the same time they barely made a mark on the discs, they were extremely disc friendly.
I've had the SBS pads on for just short of 6 months and unfortunately they've very noticeably eaten into my after market discs.
Once I'd cleaned the dirt off the pads they looked like they were brand new, in fact they looked no different to when I took them out of the packet.
I was doing my pre-winter caliper service and my pistons were absolutely fine, so it would seem that the pads are just a harder composite than the discs.
Bit of a shame, 'cos as I said, the pads work brilliantly in all conditions but when compared to the Galfer pads the disc wear is massively different in comparison.
Because I service my calipers once or twice a year it is something I check so I spotted it straight away.
I'll keep an eye on it but I can see me changing them some time next year as pads are much cheaper than discs.
-
I have the 05 diamond black S1, Upgrades for 2023, S2 swing arm (black mint cond) "already bought it"
Nitron r3 rear shock for 100kg weight with gear on, 😁 on the way eu delivery, and a pair of Dunlops Q3+'s, oil an filter changed.
An ride it , I'm in Ireland weathers not that bad in the winter. 👍🏽
-
I’ve always bitten the bullet and bought oem cables and brake pads, even though the prices are a real wallet stretcher :'( . The cables I changed purely as a precaution, nothing wrong with them, just didn’t want a failure to spoil any trip I might be on. Buy cheap, buy twice is still relevant I think. Plus the fact the job has to be done twice.
As for brake pads, i've used SBS Ceramic on the rear and Galfer on the front for ages, which have both served me very well. But i couldn't find the Galfer pads at a sensible price last time so gave the Street 634HS SBS pads a go for the front after reading advice on here over the years and i must confess i'm liking them a lot so will stick with them from now on. They were even cheaper than the Galfer pads too, which was a nice bonus. 8)
Little update on the SBS front pads. As a pad, brilliant, in wet or dry, I can't fault them in that respect.
Thing is, I always used to harp on about how good the Galfer pads were and how they lasted ages but at the same time they barely made a mark on the discs, they were extremely disc friendly.
I've had the SBS pads on for just short of 6 months and unfortunately they've very noticeably eaten into my after market discs.
Once I'd cleaned the dirt off the pads they looked like they were brand new, in fact they looked no different to when I took them out of the packet.
I was doing my pre-winter caliper service and my pistons were absolutely fine, so it would seem that the pads are just a harder composite than the discs.
Bit of a shame, 'cos as I said, the pads work brilliantly in all conditions but when compared to the Galfer pads the disc wear is massively different in comparison.
Because I service my calipers once or twice a year it is something I check so I spotted it straight away.
I'll keep an eye on it but I can see me changing them some time next year as pads are much cheaper than discs.
Bought a set of Galfer pads again, so that's sorted.
I'll be selling the SBS pads at a much reduced price very shortly because they are still in very good nick. I'll probably offer them on the forum first for a while before putting them on Ebay.
They obviously didn't agree with my after market discs, which is fair enough, but it's a shame because they are good pads.
I'll keep you posted when they're available, after i've taken photo's, etc. and put a link up to the "For Sale" section.
FOR SALE link:
https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=27519.0 (https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=27519.0)