Mk1/2 Fazer 600: FAQ for New and Prospective Owners

[b1k3rdude]

 
What is it?

The FZ600 Fazer was released in 1998 and was best in class and by 2003 had sold over 80k units. The bike is beloved bike and is considered by many owners one of the best all-round motorcycles, giving current bikes a run for their money. With the Fazer, Yamaha got the basics right and that’s what makes it such a great bike. The tank range is long, the seat comfortable, the fairing effective, the brakes sharp and the motor strong in the mid-range and extremely reliable. The suspension may be a bit baggy, but if that’s the Fazer’s only real fault 22 years after it was launched then that’s not bad going. The only fly in the ointment is for London riders this bike isnt Euro3 compliant, but for £175 they can take it to Riverbank motorcycles (the only emission testing center in London) to get the bike registered as ulez compliant.

Specification:

• Engine: 599cc, DOHC liquid-cooled inline four
• Power: 95bhp @ 11,500rpm
• Torque: 61.2ftlb @ 9500rpm
• Weight: 200Kg (dry)
• Seat Height 815mm/32”
• Wheelbase: 1460
• Tank size: 18 liters
• Tyres: 110/60-ZR17 and 160/60-ZR17

Which one should I buy?

• While the early Mk1's have their charm, they are not without their issues. Most notably the woefully inadequate front headlight. Now that LED bulbs are legal its recommended that owners should replace the stock bulbs asap

What should I look out for?

• TBC

Things that will break in an accident.

• Just like the other Fazer models, the sub-frame and headlight won't survive if any part of the front gets a hard enough side impact. And by that I mean the sub-frame (that the headlight & whole front fairing mounts to) gets tweaked so things don't line up perfectly anymore. And some or all of the headlight mounts get snapped off. So like I and other owners do, find and buy some spares - levers, mirrors, indicators, infill panels, a sub-frame, a headlamp 
• The handlebars if hit hard enough and at the right/wrong angle will bend in a drop.

What upgrades / modifications should I consider?Engine / Tuning

• TBC

Exhaust

• There are loads of choices out there, but most owners fit after-market stainless headers & link pipes due to the cheap black painted OEM system rotting away in the UK climate.

Suspension / Handling

• For a start the suspension is firm but harsh and poorly controlled. So new owners will need to set up the suspension for their weight and riding style.

Chain & Sprocket's

• Owners need to regularly check the front sprocket washer and nut as these have a habit of coming loose. Here is a link to a comprehensive post by Gnasher explaining why you should use Loctite 270 - https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=27005.msg326411#msg326411

Brakes

• The brakes are the same fantastic blue spot calipers as found on a lot of Yamaha motorcycles. The popular mod is to replace the old hoses with braided.

Handlebars

• Renthals are popular

Clutch lever

• If, like me, you have medium sized hands you may want to install a span-adjustable lever. The FZ1 has the same useless cable-based clutch that the FZS had, which has clutch biting point foibles.

Mirrors

• The MK2 has same ones as fitted to the FZS1000.

Are there any specific service items or issues I should be aware of?

Rear suspension

• Always inspect the suspension linkages as they are prone to seizing and, by now, the suspension units themselves will probably be needed a rebuild or refresh, so look for any weeps and check their damping by bouncing the bike up and down.
• Front forks - tbc

Valve Clearances

• If you are planning on checking the valve clearances yourself (need to confirm mileage intervals) a service manual such as those from Haynes & Clymer is always recommended.

Service intervals

• minor every (tbc) major every (TBC), valve clearance every (tbc).

Changing spark plugs

• This is relatively easy on the both the Mk1/Mk2

Electrical connectors

• Given the age of the bike it is worthwhile going through all of the electrical connector blocks on the bike checking for corrosion and making repairs where necessary. An electrical contact cleaner spray can be used to de-grease and clean both the inside & outside of the blocks, the outside of the blocks should be treated sparingly with a product that will repel water and prevent corrosion such as dielectric grease or ACF50. Particular attention should be given to both the larger connectors below left hand-side subframe where the regulator/rectifier resides.

Carb maintenance

• Sloiw return to idle can be caused by a few things, most fo which are common (sticking throttle cable, sticking slides etc). But a not so common faul is a partially or fully blocked breather - https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=27419.0

Popular mods done be members on here
Mk1

• Headlight bulb mod, both side on - link
• Boxeye to Foxeye conversion - link
• Replace stock headers - link and link

Mk2

• Replace stock headers - link

Misc

• Info on fitting an A2 restrictor kit - link

[b1k3rdude]

Welcome suggestions for other threads to ad to the OP please folks.

[the cueball]

rear caliper upgrade?

Cheaper carb rubbers?

[b1k3rdude]

rear caliper upgrade?

Cheaper carb rubbers?

Got links to those 2 mods.?

[darrsi]

You mention the LED headlights but I was looking into them a while ago and was kind of warned off them on several websites, mainly due to them omitting an erratic non directional beam.
Surely the issue is still the reflectors rather than the actual bulbs themselves?

[darrsi]

For anyone wanting their bike to be made ULEZ compliant, there is also another testing station in STEVANAGE, Herts.


https://www.uleztesting.co.uk/

The pricing shown is just for testing on the emissions, they don't show the cost of fitting the Cat. Converter apparently as costs may be slightly different per bike, although i'm not sure why.


But in August 2021 i paid a total of £435, just to give you a ballpark figure.


All details here if needed  https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=24142.50