Depending on how much you weigh, you're speed, suspension settings, tyre, pressures etc.  If you're still running a standard rear shock and fork without them being resprung and revalved for track work and you're quick.  The suspension will at points be overwhelmed, the tyre will expand due to the suspension being pushed to its limits.  Either will explain the marks.

The rip off of people at these corporate run events, just keeps getting worse.

Just to visit, not sure if there was any online pre booking for entry tickets before now, but there isn't now, you could get discount which had to be done pre 17 Nov for car parking.  Currently it's £48.95 per person for one day and that just covers parking and entry! On line booking knocks off a huge £1.70 but you get slapped with a £2 online charge for entry and £10 off for parking which had to be done before 17 Nov and presumably bike parking if you can't get into free bike parking. 

Whether it was cheaper a few weeks ago I don't know?

Yes you can get free bike parking, but that's 1st come 1st served how big this is who knows plus £2 kit drop off.  Most I know go in the car save all the kit faf and buy stuff, so taking the bike isn't really an option.   

The feed back from contacts in the trade who are there, is don't bother unless you really must see a new bike that's not as yet in the showroom and can't wait until it is.  Everything else pretty much, you can see/buy/do elsewhere without paying the exertional entry and parking fee.

Don't even go there with the drink and food prices, for what is cheap low end takeaway food. 

Sadly it's all about corporate making as much money as they can.   

@Gnasher, is there any reason why owners could not coat the bottom of these pipe galleries with grease? As it would both protect the bottoms of the pipes and all the crap that goes in there would stick to the grease etc..

You could, providing it was heat resistant enough. That said any grease/oil would act as a grit/muck trap ie stuff would stick to it.  Just regular flushing with clean water will help prevent major issues.  Its the same with most sparkplug wells grit and muck will get in there and eventhough they have drain holes to allow water to escape grit/muck can't. Periodic flushing/air blasting is the way to go, especially before removing the plugs.

That just drains the plug recesses. There is no drain for the Coolant pipe area that I could see when checking the valves some time ago.

I'm doing all this from memory can someone give me some pictures of what we're talking about please?

Yes you can remove the pistons leaving the crankcase in the frame, that said and has been mentioned above your issue could well be just a sticky ring/s.

The fact you've run the bike, tested it, got low compression on 1 cylinder and I assume re started the engine after topping up the oil and got a higher readings all round.  Suggest it is/was indeed sticky rings and by running the bike has freed them all off giving you healthy readings.

I would give it a good spirited run, revving to 7, 10, etc working towards the red line in the lower gears for about half hour.  Allow it to cool and retest if the numbers hold up, you're not burning/using oil outside the spec, forget about the issue.

I would also mention, Fazers as a rule providing they've been maintained correctly, don't suffer bore/ring issues, if anything it's more likely to be a leaking valve/s. But again as a rule anything below 50k would be unlikely, as the rarely need shim adjustment below that mileage, even above that figure they don't go out much with normal road use.     

A sad day, I still miss mine

Dear experts, I have to take out the gearbox, it seems. The question is: if I take the engine out of the frame, is it possible to remove the lower half of the engine, and take out the gears WITHOUT removing the cylinders, pistons, cyl.head etc.? Thank you in advance.

No.   The bike doesn't have just a gear box, the gear cluster is within the engine casing and there's 2 bolts that sit under the barrel block.  These are either side of the cam chain void and cylinders 2 & 3.


Why do you need to remove the gear cluster?       

From their very popular Monokey range of luggage, they're 40lt, I think they're the E360Ns which are topcase/panniers.

They are unpacked but never used so as new condition, still got protective cover on the badge, they come with all keys.  These panniers will fit any bike once you've bought the mounting kit for whatever bike.

£140 ovno plus postage or free collection, Melton Mowbray area.

As mentioned in the Hayabusa 06 post these are the unboxed pair of 2 pairs of end cans.  These were fitted to the bike when her husband bought the bike and replaced with the boxed pair. 

The unboxed set.

There're are small marks and dents on both cans unlike the boxed pair there's no damage to the over banding areas If you know anything about these you'll know they can be completely disassembled and rebuilt.  All the dents could be removed and all parts polished.  Another option it to buy these and the boxed set and build a pair from the 2 sets, job done.  These are straight fit for 99 -07 Busa's they could possibly fit others in the Gixxer range or other bikes with a mounting rings she's looking for £150 plus postage at cost.

If you bought both sets you'd get a good as new pair for less than half the cost of new




Left Can



Right Can

This is the last bike I'm trying to shift for the same customer as the RD400 & Blade, again this was her late husbands bike.  It's taken longer as she was toying with keeping it, but has decided now to let it go. 

It's in fully running order, serviced by me in Aug this year and it runs fine as does it ride.  It's had been stood pretty much for the last 3 yrs other than MOT's and the odd ride, I've put approximately 300miles on it over the last year, sorting it out for her as she was going to keep it.  It's completely standard, except for the polished rims   In good to fair condition for year, rust beginning to appear on the odd fastener/bolt/screw etc mainly due to it being standing under a bike cover in her garden for over 2yrs, all easily sorted. There is corrosion on the exhaust link pipes, the offside is worst.  These are double skin and it's the chrome outer that's starting to go, very common issue, easily replaced.  There are the normal wear and tear blemishes you'd expect for a 17 yr old bike, especially one that's not been garaged all it's life.   

Both tyres are new Michelin Road 5, fitted at it's last MOT in Aug 22, they've covered 379 miles.  Genuine mileage of 10601, which is low for the year.   
It doesn't have a current MOT, last was Aug 22, after having the front callipers rebuilt and painted by the garage who MOT'd it.  Lets just say they worked, just, lacked power and feel and looked terrible.  They'd painted them after rebuilding them with car paint, the wrong colour to boot, the paint then hardened and was jamming the pistons.   These were both stripped at service, the paint removed, rebuilt and new Vernhill lines fitted.  They now work as they should, cosmetically they really need a repaint to return them to as the should look.   She doesn't want to spend any more on this bike and this is left for the next owner if they so which. 

It will either have a new MOT for the new owner or this will be reflected in an agreed selling price, bike is currently SORN.

The bike runs and handles as you'd expect, the motor is really strong again as you'd expect from a Busa, it really is all about the motor, if you've owned/ridden one you'll know hat I mean, they're awesome. This is a turn the key and ride off, just needs MOT, and some TLC. 

It's worth in the region of £4800 ish, to allow for points mentioned above, she's looking for £4000 ovno, she wants in gone.




















These next pictures were taken just after the service and wash down, they show the cheesy rim stickers that are no longer there.









The bike also has 2 sets of Yoshi end cans both used, one set boxed, the other loose.  There's also a complete Givi luggage set, panniers look unused/little used, plus full mounting plates and mounting bars for them.  The boxes and mounting plates will fit any bike the bars possibly not as it's Busa specific.  These will be listed separately but could be sold with the bike if required at extra cost.       

Quote from: agricola on 11 June 2023, 09:34:18 pm

I can t really comment since ive only ever ridden the fz6 s2, but i will throw into the mix that I would never have another carburated motorcycle, both from personal experience and noting the many posts on here regarding carb problems with the fzs600. That alone makes the fz6 s2 a superior machine to the fzs600

Never had an issue on any of my carburetor model bikes. My 600 has 97000miles and the 1000 has 50000miles. The 2 Serows I own have 20000 miles on each also without issue. Any problems I have come across is with is fuel evaporation especially with Ethanol based fuels causing jet clogging. I have seen similar issues with fuel injected bikes with injectors clogging from fuel being left in them for long periods of non use. However it does take longer to cause issue than  carbs as they are less prone to evaporation. Blocked injectors are a bigger pain to sort than blocked jets and more expensive.The only injected bikes I have ridden that I could live with were the FJR1300 and believe it or not the S1000RR.

Pretty much every bike I see/work on that's had/got fuel system issues be they Crab or Injected is down to other issues not the fuel be that E5 or 10.  Crab model bikes imported into the UK above 250cc are as far as I'm aware all injected and have been for approximately 10yrs ish, over 500cc longer.

Every Fazer or any other bike, I've worked on/repaired with blocked jets has been due to, contaminated fuel being put in, rust in the tank, leaking filler cap seals or split fuel pipes, allowing water ingress, the same applies to injections systems.  The issue is the owners not the fuel it's self. 
 


       

This is a subjective subject to a large extent.  Back in the day there was cans stamped as mentioned this can/does still happen, that said many newer (last 15yrs or so) have removal baffles, i.e. when the baffle/s is removed it's not road compliant.  What still further complicates matters is the final say it down to the MOT tester ears .

A basic rule of thumb if it sounds too loud to you, chances are its tooooooo loud