If you're referring to the elbows that go into the cylinder head between the intakes?  It's not worth the effort and faff trying just pull the crabs back by removing the rear air box rubbers.

That way it's done right 1st go.

Bump

Now SOLD

Just giving this a bump. 

The symptoms are suggesting issues with the cold start circuit.  There are several sensor the ECU uses to control that circuit.  You state you've tested them, try disconnecting the temperature sensors one at a time see if you can get the revs to drop to 1200. Test fuel pump pressure, you'll need a gauge for that. Also check the fuel return circuit ie blocked or restricted.  Check the air box for restrictions or damage eg holes/splits. Look for signs of a boost plug these are plugged into air temperature sensor in the intake, these fail overtime.  Some are home made bodge jobs and cut into the loom, only to be removed on selling.  The std sensor will test ok, but if the loom is damage the circuit won't work correctly.  Check the loom for signs of an alarm having been removed or fitted incorrectly.


From what you've stated, over fueling is your issue, but the problem may well not sit n the fuelling circuit.  But rather one of the supporting circuits. 

@gnasher

- So I have looked at all of helds gear, its all leather

The pair I've suggested are not.   The palm, little and ring fingers are made of goat skin as is across the knuckle armour of the glove, the rest is Taslan, a very cleaver woven fabric mix with high wear, water repellency.  Goat skin is tougher and softer than cow hide weight for weight, therefore can be thinner, is more water repellent than cow hide and it dries faster.  I've used mine in 4 hours plus of continuous rain, the don't get heavy or have that wetted out feel you get with leather, they dry out to a damp level in at room temperature after about 4 hours, almost dry after a day in office/work place.  This can be further increased by regular cleaning and reproofing, with those spray on proofers.  A stated I wouldn't use these if I was planning on very long and cold rides, I'd use the Gerbing.               

and non of the gloves have regular cuffs, its either too long or too short :-/

As stated in my reference to Gerbing and their cuff lengths, I prefer to have the glove cuff under my jacket, the held gloves fits under mine without issues.  Sadly many jackets aren't cut well these days, often too short in the arm length and/or the cuff circumference isn't big enough to allow longer/winter cuff gloves to be placed under them.  The other issue can be back/chest armour, many jackets aren't sold with back armour/chest in place, rather it has to be bought as an extra.  People try on the jacket even sitting on a bike or frame in the shop testing the sleeve length and across the back/chest fit, but they don't do it with the optional back/chest armour fitted, once either or both are fitted the sleeve length is now too short!   

That and not all the held range come in short finger lengths annoyingly...

Don't know about that, all I can say is I've recommended Held cold champ glove to many males and females of all sizes, no one as yet has complained about fit.  Some have moved to a larger or smaller size than their last make of glove but all have got a good fit. 

- Had a look on SBS at the five range, found one pair that fit my requirments aaaannd, that only have one size left. And for the money Five want and there is no gortex...

Never tried Five or currently know anyone who has, so can't comment with experience.  Looking at their range, which on the face looks good, but price is telling me their not going to cut it with the top range Held kit, but I could well be wrong.  Assuming you're looking for a winter glove?  Gortex is approx half the other half is something they call Drytech, Bit puzzled about availability though Sporstbikeshop appear to carry all their range and as you no doubt know you can try before you buy, use them a lot these days.  Plus there's no quibble with returns.  They're a few others stockist, but they appear not to stock the whole range.   

This my help you further, courtesy of PATs page. If you know what you're looking at the throttle cables are obvious.

https://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/images/cscarb12-34screwdriver.jpg

Ok, battery voltage after 3 days standing is 12.7 when off so that’s healthy. I drained the fuel bowls and no water in the fuel. Pump whirred up and she fired up with no problems which is quite annoying as I still have no idea why she wouldn’t start 3 days ago.

This suggests damp/water ingress somewhere in/along the ignition circuit, which has now dried out.

I did check the air filter too and it’s filthy and black and the sponge is starting to come off on the inside. It’s a pipercross filter that Mike fitted about 6 years ago when he Ivanised the bike. I do clean it yearly but it’s so bad this time I’ve just ordered a new one.

This won't help but still isn't the cause.

I’ve also cleaned the connector going into the Cdi unit and put electrical insulation grease in the contacts to protect it from the damp.

This is a high possibility

Keep things simple The fact it's running fine when it does start, I'm assuming that as you didn't mention there was any running issues during the ride before filling up, are there any?  Going with the assumption the bike runs fine, you can discount, vales, fuel pump, plugs, HT leads, coils, water in the fuel, or float bowls not filling.  Any or all would seriously effect mid/high range running/riding/pulling away etc, all get worse as the revs rise.  The same would apply if the cold start plunger/s were stuck open/not returning, or idling again you mention no issues during that last ride.

Was/is there any issues with the bike once it was started, i.e. it behaved as it should once you'd got it started?

The fact it started after a few prods with the throttle wide open suggests a too rich mixture, this could also be a symptom of insufficient spark or intermittent spark.  I know you said you replaced the battery a few months ago and that you ride everyday, but at this time of year lights, and perhaps heated items grips/gloves/jacket etc get used.  Alarms also pull more especially if left outside in the cold overnight or while just at work.  If the charging system or the battery isn't performing it wont take long to lower a good battery below 12.2 volts.  As this happens e.g. failing to start on multiple prods, the cylinders are over fed with fuel e.g. rich mixture which will hamper or prevent hot starting. 

A low charge battery will not deliver enough power to provide a healthy spark fort a cold engine, even though the engine is turning over.     

Check the battery, voltage there should be a minimum of 12.6, and up to 13.2 once the engine is idling and 14v at 5k, if not you've either got a charging (unlikely these are very reliable) or a battery issue.   

Batteries can give the impression they are fine i.e. charging up, but after as little as 30mins they can start to discharge, anything less than 12.8 after 30mins is a indication of a failing battery.  During summer months when lights and accessories are less used a failing battery won't be noticed until it reaches a point where it won't hold more than 12v, that point is normally about now! 

I see loads of the above starting in Nov every year.  Check your battery first     

Hoses are generally measured from centre to centre of the banjo.

If you're looking for standard length replacements, I'd recommend opting for one of the following: -

Goodridge
Vernhill
Hell
Earl's

All of the above I've fitted over the years, all are good, some are in my opinion are easier to fit, require no assembly, supply all hose fitting rubbers and fit better (Goodridge).   Others require various levels of assembly, you've got to supply hose rubbers or P clips and the fit isn't as good.  A few dealers and pad suppliers (EBC, TRW, ) now also do a range of hoses, these are ok and are a mix of the above, without some of the nicer finishes.

All of the above will supply bespoke hose lengths in any finish.

I've never used Amazon neither would I.  That said doesn't make them bad, it's likely they are a branded supplied hose, just sold by Amazon, in which case they're good.  If they are branded Amazon, they'll likely to be low spec  i.e. nickel, non coated, in which case you'd do better avoiding unless money is really tight and you don't mine a lesser finish.     

Ok got you now.    To correct myself, your model yr 01 should have mild steel double skin down tubes.  It's very likely you've got aftermarket stainless steel replacements on your bike.  OE stainless weren't fitted until 02 and they aren't that good. 

Transalps have more suspension travel compared to a Fazer.

That and depending on how good the shock on the Alp was, could we'll make the Fazer for you a sports feel.  Try it and take a view. To be honest most owners don't push their bikes hard enough (solo) to notice a under damped shock, providing it's not really bad.

Yes.  It depends on quite a few factors, but even a well looked after bike.  The shock at 15k miles ish will have lost its edge at least, most will have stopped damping in any predictable manner.  That said one of the factors is how and where you ride, a past it's best shock my not be noticed by you.

Don't let the shock issue put you off as long as the rest is fine.  Shocks come in many guises, most quality AM second hand can be rebuilt and picked up for £100 or so.  Factor in a rebuild approx the same cost, will give you a a quality replacement.

Often quality AM can snapped up for a little more needing no work at all.